Diamond Back
Active Member
- Local time
- 8:10 AM
- Joined
- Jun 11, 2016
- Messages
- 137
consider this: if the pipe is tuned to come "on" at 11,000rpm then what you are experiencing is the dead zone right before it comes on the pipe.
chunk that crap and put the stock pipe back on.
Hey JAG,, good to see you buddy,,,I got to talk to you about the status of my WALBRO conversion kit,,, but in private some how,, dont want all my secrets out there,,, but it came out awesome,, start testing tommorow if no rain,,, you have a regular e-mail that i can send you pics and talk about sales???
ok..on the bike issue,,, dont know why i am stressing it since we are getting a carburetor upgrade tomorrow but i just want to know and learn i guess.... i dont have stock pipe,, i traded it for the RSE HEAD which i thought would be crap,, but i have learned to love it,, my midrange is grunty and got some snot to it,, if i am at 3000 rpms and gas it, it wants to lift front end almost but it pulls you back hard and is at 7500 in seconds,,, just have to run some lucas octane boost with sunoco 93 and its CRISP..
i have read JENNINGS guide and everything else i could find on expansion pipes,, at first it was confusing but then it was pretty easy and straight forward,, the Banana pipe really just needs a 27 mm diameter header pipe and they say the Banana pipe comes into the pipe around 9,000 rpms. not 11.. POWERBAND really only hits hard for 2000 rpms then drops off so by tuning the header length you can control when you want it to hit,, My RSE head gives me crazy torque and pull from 3,000 to 6,500 so i want my pipe to hit from 6,500 t0 8,500...(i want my Motor to live reliable and healthy))) so i am picking 8,500 as my final let off WOT redline. So i need to drop my pipe 2,500 revs.... for every 1" inch of straight header pipe you drop 400 rpms,,, so i need to splice in 6.25" of 1" inch diameter pipe, that will make the pipe start working at 6,500 rpms and out to 8,500..perfect !!!! also need to due some flange mount opening to 1"inch, and the length measurment starts from piston skirt..
also by cleaning your piston top and make about (2)) 1 mile WOT speed runs you can see where the burnt section is happening on your piston,, if the burnt marks are in the exhaust port then your pipe flange is too narrow and creating to much suction and needs to be increased till the burnt marks are in middle of piston,, to big and you dont have enough suction to pull up your transfer ports,,, it all has to be just right or suffer lose in power,, I looked at my piston and my burnt marks are in my exhaust port cause my pipe flange and header are 3/4" inch, so i need to increase to 1" inch ..
NOW THIS PART IS COOL,,,(THE STINGER))... the banana pipe has a 1 inch nub stinger,, sucks does nothing.. The stinger should be half the size diameter of the header,,, so 1/2 inch and by making it longer makes the powerband come on earlier too,,, you dont want to make it to long cause the longer it is the more pressure and HEAT you create in the pipe and can ruin everything you just worked on building so perfect,,, your best bet is to play around with different sizes and lengths,,, but a good stinger is the same length as header and half diameter.. THE PART I AM GOING TO DO IS SEAL IT UP,,, I WANT A SIDE BELLY BLEED OFF ,,, BY DOING THIS YOU CAN SEVERALLY SILENCE YOUR EXHAUST TONE BY 84 %%%%%% AND IT SOUNDS COOL HAVING IT THIS WAY,,, CHECK OUT VIDEO .....