Clutch pins rubbing against the clutch cover?

[francisjohn]

Those three pins do not magically just grow like Pinocchio's nose...lol...A gasket, sometimes two, give it the room it needs.

Have you considered that now that it is summertime, you are probably experiencing a heat expansion issue along with the ambient temperatures outside causing the problem that having that gasket or two might just prevent from happening in the first place?

I did not consider heat expansion. People kept saying "hammer the pins in" but gave no context of why one would do that. I have a few spare clutch baskets (they're 3.0mm keyways, the problem basket is 2.5mm) and then I seen how hammering in the pins could help.

Out of all the gaskets to make, the clutch cover is the biggest b**ch. I did it before and if the gasket is too wide, it gets in the way of the cover. It may come down to running gaskets.

If it happened after so long it could be caused by general wear on the clutch. I don't think adding gaskets is a "bandaid" I think it's just caused from general wear.

The bottom end does have 2k on it to be fair.

As I have stated before I have a centrifugal clutch so I don't know how long a clutch should last, at least I'm learning

Is this on a 2T? There is a centrifugal clutch for 2Ts on eBay. I don't know anyone whos been the guinea pig for it.

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Centrifugal clutch for 2-stroke 80cc gas motor bike engine.

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Did you try going back to square one and adjusting the clutch again like new? I measured the stand off of the clutch dowls on my new engine, with the plate installed and the flower nut turned in until the center stud was flush with the outside of the flower nut. The dowls had 5.34mm outside the plate.

The cause could be wear and tear or something is broken.

Just for clarification, when you say "dowels" are you referring to the pins? I'm assuming yes as technically they're dowels.

I did re-adjust the clutch as I noticed it before I replaced my front sprocket as the front sprocket has 2k on it. Here is a photo with the old sprocket on the left. Most of the wear on the 2k sprocket is in between the teeth. When I was about to replace the sprocket, I heard the noise. I went through with the replacement, and re-adjusted the clutch in the process. To answer your question, yes I re-adjusted it.

 

[DAMIEN1307]

Just for clarification, when you say "dowels" are you referring to the pins? I'm assuming yes as technically they're dowels.

Correct.

 

[GW's Motorized]

Is this on a 2T? There is a centrifugal clutch for 2Ts on eBay. I don't know anyone whos been the guinea pig for it.

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Centrifugal Clutch kit for 80cc 100cc 2-stroke Gas Engine motor bike | eBay

Centrifugal clutch for 2-stroke 80cc gas motor bike engine.

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yes, this is on a two stroke. I have the BT80 engine. It was an expensive engine, but well worth it imo. It has electric start, charging system, centrifugal clutch, 4hp, and the whole shabang.

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It was 300 flat when I bought it. It looks like it's on sale.

The main reason I bought this was the charging system and 4hp. I personally would prefer it have a manual clutch, but you can't get everything you want.

I have since done some detailing paint on the case covers

 

[Chainlube]

yes, this is on a two stroke. I have the BT80 engine. It was an expensive engine, but well worth it imo. It has electric start, charging system, centrifugal clutch, 4hp, and the whole shabang.

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It was 300 flat when I bought it. It looks like it's on sale.

The main reason I bought this was the charging system and 4hp. I personally would prefer it have a manual clutch, but you can't get everything you want.

View attachment 195283

I have since done some detailing paint on the case covers

That's a saw jug anyway, no wonder they'd make a good saw build. You need to adapt a nice Tillotson carb to it for unlimited adjustability.

 

[ImpulseRocket]

Hammering the pins back in would be due to migration from thermal fluctuation and vibration. They can potentially migrate over time.

 

[GW's Motorized]

That's a saw jug anyway, no wonder they'd make a good saw build. You need to adapt a nice Tillotson carb to it for unlimited adjustability.

I need to pull the jug at some point and see what I have clearance wise. I'd still prefer to do a minarelli conversion to it instead of a saw cylinder.

 

[GW's Motorized]

Maybe if it has clearance for a 52mm piston I'll order a phantom cylinder

 

[francisjohn]

Hammering the pins back in would be due to migration from thermal fluctuation and vibration. They can potentially migrate over time.

and to @DAMIEN1307 as well. Just wanted to give an update, nothing like getting answers and dipping out on everyone

It was in fact the clutch pins. Here is a photo of a "new-ish" basket I have. In the photo, the pins are flush with the back of the basket and have approx 11.2mm-11.3mm in height (measuring from the top of the pin to the bottom, and mine were pushed out only less than 1mm for it to rub (it was approx 11.8mm)

It should be noted, often people will say "just hammer the pins on" but with nothing more. While hammering the pins is the solution, it shouldn't be done with the basket still attached to the clutch shaft as you'll need to see if you're getting to where you need to be or not even close. I gave it a few good wacks, and before I knew it I pushed the pin 1/5 out and was dealing with a thirty minute disaster on my hands.

 

[GW's Motorized]

Where's the pictures

 

[DAMIEN1307]

Here is a photo of a "new-ish" basket I have. In the photo,

Where's the photo???...lol.

Where's the pictures

You always did like pics with the gory details don'tcha...lol...Next you will be asking for videos with blood and guts...lol.