lazylightning@mail.r
Active Member
Are you joking? He had to turn the cylinder and the piston to face the other direction %-D
Help with fine tunning needed.
- Thread starter FelipeCobu
- Start date
Are you joking? He had to turn the cylinder and the piston to face the other direction %-D
FelipeCobu
Member
No problem dude.
And you was right when you say that the engine cant't breath. The reason was not the muffler nor the carb, when I converted the engine to reed valve I done a small hole timed right after the transfer ports closure. Occurs that the hole was too small. Today I dissablemded the whole thing and increase this hole to the size of the intake port. (Sorry my phone was with no battery so can't take any pics.
Had time for just a test ride, but finally got the bike running well on open throtle, still rich becausethe jetting I done while troubleshooting that issue, but changed like night and day.
Felipe Cobu
HeadSmess
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it wasnt til the 2nd page that anyone realised the cylinder has been rotated?
mount the carb ON THE REED BLOCK.
adding any length to the intake just increases the amount of air moving. more=more. more mass=more momentum. you just get reversion waves happening again, defeating the whole purpose of the reeds...
how well have you matched the transfers? cause they arent lining up too well from the looks of it.
no point getting the max air into the crankcase if it cant transfer to the cylinder.
back to the manifold.
you machined a lump of resin as a mould. why not just machine the lump of alloy? that was the question. a lot cheaper! or route it so the carb is mounted neatly?
if you went to the effort of casting up the block...why not get a cylinder recast with correct transfers and the rotated exhaust/intake? with an inbuilt reed valve manifold? theres a large demand
just a thought.
you did well though. noone else has a pic of a rotated HT cylinder
mount the carb ON THE REED BLOCK.
adding any length to the intake just increases the amount of air moving. more=more. more mass=more momentum. you just get reversion waves happening again, defeating the whole purpose of the reeds...
how well have you matched the transfers? cause they arent lining up too well from the looks of it.
no point getting the max air into the crankcase if it cant transfer to the cylinder.
back to the manifold.
you machined a lump of resin as a mould. why not just machine the lump of alloy? that was the question. a lot cheaper! or route it so the carb is mounted neatly?
if you went to the effort of casting up the block...why not get a cylinder recast with correct transfers and the rotated exhaust/intake? with an inbuilt reed valve manifold? theres a large demand
just a thought.
you did well though. noone else has a pic of a rotated HT cylinder
FelipeCobu
Member
it wasnt til the 2nd page that anyone realised the cylinder has been rotated?
mount the carb ON THE REED BLOCK.
adding any length to the intake just increases the amount of air moving. more=more. more mass=more momentum. you just get reversion waves happening again, defeating the whole purpose of the reeds...
>>> Yeap that is true. The poing from where the picture was taken make seems that the intake is longer than it really are. I have to made it that way due to space restrictions.
how well have you matched the transfers? cause they arent lining up too well from the looks of it.
>>> Externally it may look that way, internally they are, I've also made some porting/ debburing the casting marks too.
no point getting the max air into the crankcase if it cant transfer to the cylinder.
>>> I can see you point, and again you're right.
back to the manifold.
you machined a lump of resin as a mould. why not just machine the lump of alloy? that was the question. a lot cheaper! or route it so the carb is mounted neatly?
>>> Because I live in Brazil wich is a under developed country dude, all machining tool I have access is a drill press. So I hand esculped a reging block thand sent to be sand casted on aluminun, way much cheaper around here than machining a billet.
if you went to the effort of casting up the block...why not get a cylinder recast with correct transfers and the rotated exhaust/intake? with an inbuilt reed valve manifold? theres a large demand
Cz I'm a hobbist dude. No comparison between casting a "o" shaped block and a new cylinder liner.
Apples ans Oranges. Also If I o so I will need to found someone do platte it with nickasil or chrome, again to much $$$ involved.
just a thought.
you did well though. noone else has a pic of a rotated HT cylinder
Thanks appreciated that.
[ ]
Best regards!!!
mount the carb ON THE REED BLOCK.
adding any length to the intake just increases the amount of air moving. more=more. more mass=more momentum. you just get reversion waves happening again, defeating the whole purpose of the reeds...
>>> Yeap that is true. The poing from where the picture was taken make seems that the intake is longer than it really are. I have to made it that way due to space restrictions.
how well have you matched the transfers? cause they arent lining up too well from the looks of it.
>>> Externally it may look that way, internally they are, I've also made some porting/ debburing the casting marks too.
no point getting the max air into the crankcase if it cant transfer to the cylinder.
>>> I can see you point, and again you're right.
back to the manifold.
you machined a lump of resin as a mould. why not just machine the lump of alloy? that was the question. a lot cheaper! or route it so the carb is mounted neatly?
>>> Because I live in Brazil wich is a under developed country dude, all machining tool I have access is a drill press. So I hand esculped a reging block thand sent to be sand casted on aluminun, way much cheaper around here than machining a billet.
if you went to the effort of casting up the block...why not get a cylinder recast with correct transfers and the rotated exhaust/intake? with an inbuilt reed valve manifold? theres a large demand
Cz I'm a hobbist dude. No comparison between casting a "o" shaped block and a new cylinder liner.
Apples ans Oranges. Also If I o so I will need to found someone do platte it with nickasil or chrome, again to much $$$ involved.
just a thought.
you did well though. noone else has a pic of a rotated HT cylinder
Thanks appreciated that.
[ ]
Best regards!!!
FelipeCobu
Member
I'm a little concerned about the pistong bearing sideplay, I could see by the marks on the piston pin that the bearing is going sideways.
I'll ask someone to do me a set of nylon and brass shims, if using the brass shims the vibration is worse will use nylon ones and vice versa.
I'm thinking too about a boost bootle, and perhaps running it on alcohol since whe have etanol here in every gas stations around here in Brazil.
Thks.
Felipe Cobu