Is it worth fixing??
- Thread starter Tyler6357
- Start date
Big Red
Active Member
Fix It.
Hey Tyler, Just my opinion, If it were my engine I would buy a wrist pin and bearing and clips, a piston and rings, slap it together and see what happens. IF, as you say, the cylinder wall is not scored, AT ALL, and your bottom end is still tight with no play between the rod and crank, and the crank bearings are good, then it should rebuild pretty easy. I wouldn't tear apart a bottom end unless it needed fixing. Like my Pop's always said, If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Wait untill you REALLY break one to tear one apart. And this way you'll have a spare engine when (not if) you need it.
Just be carefull putting on the rings. There are little pins in the ring slot that the ends of the rings set on. The rings will break very easy if not set in the slot properly.
And about those gaskets. I guess you could cut yer own if you're REALLY, REALLY, REALLY, (REALLY,) good. But dude, just buy em.
Big Red.
Hey Tyler, Just my opinion, If it were my engine I would buy a wrist pin and bearing and clips, a piston and rings, slap it together and see what happens. IF, as you say, the cylinder wall is not scored, AT ALL, and your bottom end is still tight with no play between the rod and crank, and the crank bearings are good, then it should rebuild pretty easy. I wouldn't tear apart a bottom end unless it needed fixing. Like my Pop's always said, If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Wait untill you REALLY break one to tear one apart. And this way you'll have a spare engine when (not if) you need it.
Just be carefull putting on the rings. There are little pins in the ring slot that the ends of the rings set on. The rings will break very easy if not set in the slot properly.
And about those gaskets. I guess you could cut yer own if you're REALLY, REALLY, REALLY, (REALLY,) good. But dude, just buy em.
Big Red.
Sgt. Howard
Active Member
Those are the normal seperations for piston rings- otherwise, how would you remove/replace them? Remember, this is a two stroke- your fuel goes into the crankcase before it goes into the cylinder. Broken bearings will fly into the chamber with ease. A re-build kit is about 1/2 to 2/3 the cost of a new mill and might well solve the issue... but a new mill is a better bet. You don't need the full kit, only the mill... and they are cheaper than a kit.
the Old Sgt.
the Old Sgt.
Tyler6357
Well-Known Member
Update:
Okay, I have taken some pics of my cylinder for your inspection. I tried to get a pic of each part of it. I had to adjust it to the light to get pictures of the cylinder walls. Like I said, it is very clean considering bearings went through it. There is just one very slight hairline scratch. I really had to zome in and adjust and it's angle to the light to even get a picture of it (see pic #2280 below). It's so shallow that when I run my finger over it I can't even feel it.
Replace this or not??
Okay, I have taken some pics of my cylinder for your inspection. I tried to get a pic of each part of it. I had to adjust it to the light to get pictures of the cylinder walls. Like I said, it is very clean considering bearings went through it. There is just one very slight hairline scratch. I really had to zome in and adjust and it's angle to the light to even get a picture of it (see pic #2280 below). It's so shallow that when I run my finger over it I can't even feel it.
Replace this or not??
Attachments
Tyler6357
Well-Known Member
Rings
Sgt:
Thanks for the info. I have since figured out that the gaps in the rings are normal seperations. However, I think my rings are slightly damaged and might need to be replaced. Take a look at this pic (pic #2258 below) and you can see that the rings got slightly scraped when the bearing went up the side of the piston.
Should I replace the rings?
Sgt:
Thanks for the info. I have since figured out that the gaps in the rings are normal seperations. However, I think my rings are slightly damaged and might need to be replaced. Take a look at this pic (pic #2258 below) and you can see that the rings got slightly scraped when the bearing went up the side of the piston.
Should I replace the rings?
Attachments
Al.Fisherman
Active Member
Most definitely.
Sgt. Howard
Active Member
Replace rings, jug, piston... then crack open the lower case and see where those things came from- my money says bearings. You MIGHT be able to salvage the case and head. Tally up that much purchase and compare to a replacement engine-somehow I would bet there's not much difference except that a replacement only needs to be instaled, not assembled. Mind you, you MIGHT get that jug (cylinder) to function as well as the piston... but the odds are against you- sorry
the Old Sgt.
the Old Sgt.
Tyler6357
Well-Known Member
Update
Update:
Okay, I got the special clutch pulling tool and finally cracked this motor!! I have taken some pictures for you all to see. So far I can see 2 sets of bearings, one that hooks into the clutch assembly (see pics: #2317,#2319, #2328) and the other that look like crank bearings (see pic #2315, #2327). The ones on the crank look fine, no missing balls and turns cleanly. The clutch one seems kinda loose. How do I take the bearings out? On the back of the clutch side one is a washer that comes right off. Also, how do I disassemble the clutch to check the bearings inside (pic #2223,#2224) I can't figure out how to take it apart without damaging it. Also how do you take the plates around the crank off so that I can check the lower bearings (pic#2321, #2322)? The crank seems to be spinning properly. I found no mangled metal pieces anywhere inside except what looks like metal dust (pic #2320). I took some pics of the other parts (see pics #2311, #2325, #2326), if any of you pros out there see anything that looks bad let me know. Since I have it open now is it smart to just replace all the bearings or is that no necessary?
Update:
Okay, I got the special clutch pulling tool and finally cracked this motor!! I have taken some pictures for you all to see. So far I can see 2 sets of bearings, one that hooks into the clutch assembly (see pics: #2317,#2319, #2328) and the other that look like crank bearings (see pic #2315, #2327). The ones on the crank look fine, no missing balls and turns cleanly. The clutch one seems kinda loose. How do I take the bearings out? On the back of the clutch side one is a washer that comes right off. Also, how do I disassemble the clutch to check the bearings inside (pic #2223,#2224) I can't figure out how to take it apart without damaging it. Also how do you take the plates around the crank off so that I can check the lower bearings (pic#2321, #2322)? The crank seems to be spinning properly. I found no mangled metal pieces anywhere inside except what looks like metal dust (pic #2320). I took some pics of the other parts (see pics #2311, #2325, #2326), if any of you pros out there see anything that looks bad let me know. Since I have it open now is it smart to just replace all the bearings or is that no necessary?
Attachments
Big Red
Active Member
Bearings
Hey Tyler, Others my have a different opinion, But mine has always been, If it ain't broke, don't fix it. If the bearings are still tight, leave em. But the sarge might be right about the cost. It might be about the same price to just replace the engine. Then, in your spare time, you will have an old, extra engine to experiment on.
Big Red.
Hey Tyler, Others my have a different opinion, But mine has always been, If it ain't broke, don't fix it. If the bearings are still tight, leave em. But the sarge might be right about the cost. It might be about the same price to just replace the engine. Then, in your spare time, you will have an old, extra engine to experiment on.
Big Red.
Last edited:
Tyler6357
Well-Known Member
I have already purchased a replacement motor and am waiting for delivery. I'm just messing around with this.
