Engine Trouble 66/80cc idle adjustment?

that is one of the best tensioners i've seen too!
quick, patent the idea, make some and start selling them.
People will buy them.

Thanks dude!

Idk... this version requires welding on the frame. Not sure many people have that option... especially if they have an aluminum frame. Clamp on would obviously work. It would just have to be better than the original... which is not that hard to do!:giggle:
 
Thanks dude!

Idk... this version requires welding on the frame. Not sure many people have that option... especially if they have an aluminum frame. Clamp on would obviously work. It would just have to be better than the original... which is not that hard to do!:giggle:

seriously, there are versions of the stock tensioner out there (that are also junk) selling for $30.00 each.
the design you have there is a winner, and i know that people would buy them.
I mean, if it could be done cheap enough (on your end) to justify making 2 different versions ( a weld on and a clamp on) i think you'd have a winning product there. the thing is tho, how much would it cost you to make them (time and materials) and how much could you really sell them for?
I'd pay $30.00 for one of your tensioners.
the thing people need to realize is that spending (for example) $30.00 and getting a bolt on or weld on tensioner that is known to work, is much easier than trying to modify the origional to work.
Modifying the origional tensioner is more of a headache than it's worth in my opinion because the original tensioners are junk. I have never used an original tensioner because as soon as i saw them, i knew they were junk.
if people could just buy a tensioner that's ready to go...I'm sure they would. There are people out there that lack the ability to fabricate things like this (I've made my own tensioners and other parts) and it would be simple for them to just be able to "click" and buy it now, rather than to struggle and fight, trying to modify the original or waste money on other tensioners that fail.
you have a wining design there man!
 
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seriously, there are versions of the stock tensioner out there (that are also junk) selling for $30.00 each.
the design you have there is a winner, and i know that people would buy them.
I mean, if it could be done cheap enough (on your end) to justify making 2 different versions ( a weld on and a clamp on) i think you'd have a winning product there. the thing is tho, how much would it cost you to make them (time and materials) and how much could you really sell them for?
I'd pay $30.00 for one of your tensioners.
the thing people need to realize is that spending (for example) $30.00 and getting a bolt on or weld on tensioner that is known to work, is much easier than trying to modify the origional to work.
Modifying the origional tensioner is more of a headache than it's worth in my opinion because the original tensioners are junk. I have never used an original tensioner because as soon as i saw them, i knew they were junk.
if people could just buy a tensioner that's ready to go...I'm sure they would. There are people out there that lack the ability to fabricate things like this (I've made my own tensioners and other parts) and it would be simple for them to just be able to "click" and buy it now, rather than to struggle and fight, trying to modify the original or waste money on other tensioners that fail.
you have a wining design there man!

At this point, I probably have $50 in that tensioner. The sprocket alone was $20+tax (8.25% in Tx.) But... that's retail. If I were to produce these, I would buy the parts wholesale of course. But I agree, if this turns out to be a proven design, I think it would sell. Problem for me is lack of time for R&D and them production. I'm back in school. Training to become a radiology tech. Between classroom and apprenticing... it's usually about 50 hrs/wk.
 
I noticed the two slots when I was putting the cable into the slide. I took it apart thinking that was the problem, but I had it right. It was then that I noticed the notched and angled portion at the very bottom and how it lined up with the idle speed screw. So the good news is that it does idle now! However, is an erratic idle normal? I had some cork gasket material and made a gasket to go between the intake tube and carb. So I doubt there's a leak there. IDK... I'm thinking a little bit longer intake manifold might help.

Like I said, this is my first build. I'm learning that these are not ready to go out of the box... after assembly of course. That chain tensioner is WORTHLESS!! The welder is going to get good use tomorrow!

Thanks for the help!
dont use a cork gasket on things that vibrate like thease do. use a silicon based sealant to get you by untolll you get proper gaskets for it cork will continually compress ontill its sqiushed out of service.
 
dont use a cork gasket on things that vibrate like thease do. use a silicon based sealant to get you by untolll you get proper gaskets for it cork will continually compress ontill its sqiushed out of service.

Read on, Dennis. You missed the good part about the homemade seals.
 
Score!!

So I went down to my local auto parts store and picked up a new NGK plug and an assortment of Viton O-rings. One of the o-rings was a perfect fit between the carb and intake tube. There was also a small ring that was perfect for the float bowl drain screw. (Mine was leaky). This thing runs MUCH better! Starts easier too! Probably still have some carb tuning to do. But there is a definate improvement!
 

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yep, you got it man!
those float bowl drain screws are notorious for leaking because all they have is a fiber gasket, and the threads that are cut into the bowl and the screw are not the best.
the ngk plug alone will give you an improvment over the stock plug (which is junk).
your next improvement shoudl be to replace that stock el-cheap-o spark plug wire and boot.
it's simple to do, cheap, and it will give you a little improvement on how it starts and runs. The stock apsrk plug wire is nothing more than a (seriously) few strads of copper wire inside of a cheap, hard rubber peice of insulation.
get an automotive spark plug wire with a rubber boot to replace it with.
the stock wire just (in 99% of them anyway) unscrews from the cdi bix by twisting it. there are some cases where the wire is glued into the cdi box, but it can be cut out.
there's a screw inside the cdi box (once the wire is removed) that the wire screws onto.
so, unscrew the stock wire, and screw the new wire on....simple.
this will also allow you to get a longer wire to re-locate your cdi box to clean up some of the wiring (if you want to).
I have the cdi box hidden under the engine on one of my bikes, and low on the seat post on my other bike. it looks nice & clean because all of the wiring going to the cdi and to the engine is hidden under the engine.
the only wire that runs up the frame on both of my bikes is the kill switch wire. (and the throttle cable)
 
yep, you got it man!
those float bowl drain screws are notorious for leaking because all they have is a fiber gasket, and the threads that are cut into the bowl and the screw are not the best.
the ngk plug alone will give you an improvment over the stock plug (which is junk).
your next improvement shoudl be to replace that stock el-cheap-o spark plug wire and boot.
it's simple to do, cheap, and it will give you a little improvement on how it starts and runs. The stock apsrk plug wire is nothing more than a (seriously) few strads of copper wire inside of a cheap, hard rubber peice of insulation.
get an automotive spark plug wire with a rubber boot to replace it with.
the stock wire just (in 99% of them anyway) unscrews from the cdi bix by twisting it. there are some cases where the wire is glued into the cdi box, but it can be cut out.
there's a screw inside the cdi box (once the wire is removed) that the wire screws onto.
so, unscrew the stock wire, and screw the new wire on....simple.
this will also allow you to get a longer wire to re-locate your cdi box to clean up some of the wiring (if you want to).
I have the cdi box hidden under the engine on one of my bikes, and low on the seat post on my other bike. it looks nice & clean because all of the wiring going to the cdi and to the engine is hidden under the engine.
the only wire that runs up the frame on both of my bikes is the kill switch wire. (and the throttle cable)

I've read about that mod and plan on doing it soon. I've got some MSD 8.5mm wires in the garage. In fact, that'll probably be the very next mod. I saved the little threaded nub that came on the new ngk plug. I'm going to need to put it back on when I switch to the MSD wire. If I don't put it back on soon I'm certain I'll lose it.
 
8.5 mm might be too fat to fit back into the cdi box.
I'm using 8 mm accell super stock wires on both of my bikes, and the 8 mm wire is a tight fit going back into the cdi.
yeah i forgot to mention putting the screw on cap (nub) back on the aprk plug for the automotive wire boot to work.
 
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