Auto To Slip-clutch Conversion

HEY QUENTON:

That's good to know!

I realize that with the manual clutch, I'll no longer have that prolonged slippage as I do from the auto-clutch when I accellerate from a stop.

With the manual-clutch, it'll be like taking off from a stop in high gear in a stick-shift car, but in Oscar's case, that's where the pedals will come in handy!

As soon as I get up to a walking speed, I'll just let my milled-head NE engine chug-chug me on up to cruising speed!

Thanks...
HAL & OSCAR
 
HEY QUENTON:

I won't be ready to send you Oscar's auto clutch until I do my 300-mile oil change (I change every 100 miles), and receive my Worksman coaster-brake wheel, which should be in about a week.

With the allowance for my auto clutch, and the cost of the slip clutch, linkage, cable, and belt-tension kit, (new or used), what would my total cost be including shipping to California?

(Please reply via Email or Private Message)

Thanks...
HAL
 
Ok, Quenton:

OK, QUENTON:

I got my heavy-duty Worksman coaster-brake wheel (Wow...is that thing built!), and now I'm ready for the clutch swap!

Please let me know how you want to do it!

Thanks...
HAL
 
Hi Hal,

I am going to pass a lot of information your way, and in the process many will learn what is necessary to convert a Whizzer automatic clutch to the manual [slip] version.
First I will cover the needed parts. The clutch pulley, 2 bearings [expensive], a spacer between the bearings, mounting arm [must accept clutch cable], a bolt to hold the clutch to the arm [shorter than the automatic version], bolt to hold the arm to the motor, clutch cable, clutch cable bracket, and the screws & nuts to mount clutch cable bracket to the frame. The only part that is the same is the spring.
I am also including the used belt tension kit, please note the word "used".
The drive pulleys are supposed to be the same, but I wouldn't bet on it. The 90 MM pulley on the auto clutch doesn't look the exact same size as the manual pulley, but close, meaning you will most likely need to make some adjustments to make it work correctly.

The automatic clutch version also has a brake light switch in the left lever, so when ever you pull the clutch lever the brake light will activate, unless you unplug the switch.

Both clutches mount the same way, use the same spring, and use the same belts [unless the automatic isn't the 90 MM version]. The bolt that holds the automatic clutch to the arm is reversed threads, whereas the manual clutch bolt is normal threads. Use Loctite to secure all bolts & nuts, and let the Loctite dry completely before using the clutch.

I will assure you it will be harder than you think to make it work correctly, but the tension kit will make it work a lot better. Here are some instructions for the tensioner


1. Remove belt cover.
2. Remove metal belt guide from inside the cover .
3. Drill 1/4" hole in top of belt cover.
4. Install belt chaffe guide inside belt cover.
5. Screw the 4 studs into the belt cover posts, leaving 3/4" of each stud exposed.
6. Install plate [with roller attached] over the studs, install the 2 larger nuts on the REAR studs and tighten .
7. Install the forward belt guide included with the kit over the front 2 studs and locate the thin nuts over the 2 forward studs .
8. Adjust the forward guide & the roller bearings to take the needed slack from the front belt, and tighten the nuts & bolt.
9. Install belt cover using the acorn nuts.
10. Use "blue" locktite on all studs, screws, bolts, & nuts.
11. Ride Whizzer.




I sure hope you are up to this challenge, and try to avoid using swear words whenever possible.

Tomorrow morning appears to be a good day to ship clutch parts.

Have fun,
 

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HEY QUENTON:

I'm up to the challenge, and will unplug the brake light circuit.

When shall I ship the auto clutch to you, and what's your shipping address?

Will you bill me later, or do you want my check now?

HAL
 
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