carburator choke issues helllppppppp !!!!!!

Discussion in '2-Stroke Engines' started by jasonpadilla, May 30, 2010.

  1. jasonpadilla

    jasonpadilla New Member

    goa a question, when i ride my skyhawk 66cc i have to open up the choke a little or bike bogs and is slow to rev y do i have to open up the choke? what should i do so i can leave choke off after warmed up? any help would b appreciated thank you..

  2. butch100

    butch100 Member

    I think you mean your "closing" the choke which one normally does when starting a cold engine, once mine starts I open the choke. If you need to keep it in the closed position in order for it to run you might have an air leak in the intake, (carb, intake tube) make sure none of these have come loose..
  3. jasonpadilla

    jasonpadilla New Member

    thanks butch for responding, i just noticed that on my exhaust the bolt on the bottom was loose so i tightened that up. and i checked my carb and it was all tight ill check the rest of the motor, by intake tube is that the 1 that connects the cylinder to the carb? those 2 bolts that bolt to the cylinderis that what you mean? also i read on spookytooth you can drill a hole in the exhaust for better performance, where do i drill the hole? maybe right next to the bolt on the bottom? what about just taking out the bolt that i tightened? or is that holding something together? thanks butch be safe and have fun, hope to hear back from you, i live in orange county ca u?? i looked at ur profile no pics of ur ride??
  4. butch100

    butch100 Member

    Just finished it yesterday, rode it for the first time today, got a flat tire!!. Yes the intake tube is the one the carb is on and yes I suggested you check the bolts that connect it to the cylinder to make sure they are tight. If you have an air leak that lets additional air into the engine that would lean out the mix and forcing you to use the choke to keep it running. I would not recommend that you do any mods to your engine until you get it running correctly, might might make the source of your problems harder to find. I live in FL, which is really flat (no hills at all) which makes it perfect for riding..
  5. GearNut

    GearNut Active Member

    Tight bolts do not guarantee no leaks, they just guarantee parts will not fall off.
    You may need to put a very thin coating of RTV black silicone on both sides of the intake to cylinder gasket, and do the same where the carburetor attaches to the intake manifold (intake tube). Assemble the parts quickly before the silicone starts to dry, and after assembly, let the silicone dry at least overnight before trying to start the engine.
    I agree with butch100, do not try to modify any parts on the engine, exhaust or otherwise until you can at least get the engine running properly.
    Modifying parts can make an engine run weird or badly and putting that on top of a already bad running engine will make things all the worse for you.
  6. Tinsmith

    Tinsmith New Member

    Do what GearNut says with the RTV. I also went to the hardware store and got a o-ring that would fit in the intake tube and slid the carb up to it and tightened things. It can leak around that area. Some of the guys use RTV there also, but I liked the o-ring idea and it worked for me. Good Luck, Dan Thomas
  7. jasonpadilla

    jasonpadilla New Member

    Thanks a lot tin man; I appreciate the help ill figure out how I can silicone the carb to to the manifold you guys take care and thanks again for ur time and knowledge
  8. GearNut

    GearNut Active Member

    Remove the carburetor from the manifold, put a thin skin of silicone on the manifold only where the carburetor sits.
    Also using your pinky or a q-tip. put a thin skin of silicone inside the carburetor spigot, the clamping area that holds it onto the manifold, and re-assemble the carburetor to the manifold before the silicone has a chance to set up. You have about 10 minutes to do all of it after you first start to spread the silicone on the first part.
  9. AussieSteve

    AussieSteve Active Member

    Most forms of RTV silicon aren't suitable for use around fuel.
    I used to use non-hardening Permatex to achieve the same result.

    The most likely place for the leak is where the carb joins to the inlet tube.

    The 'O' ring method described by Tinsmith is reported to work OK, but I went one further and bought a cast alloy inlet tube, then filed a groove 1mm from the end for an 'O' ring. It's worth the effort.

    If you're interested in this method, there's more info in 'NT carby/inlet leaks - a reliable solution'

    Incidentally, you are aware that the choke is 'off' or open when the lever is down and 'on' or closed when it's up?
  10. GearNut

    GearNut Active Member

    Black RTV has held up remarkably well for me on many carburetor related repairs.
    There cannot be any oily residue on the surfaces for a tight bond to happen, though that goes for any silicone related task.
    If allowed to cure before coming into contact with gasoline, it holds up very well.
    The other colors, red, blue, clear, and white (white: bath, tub and tile) do not seem to work as well. Red is a close second though.
  11. AussieSteve

    AussieSteve Active Member

    If RTV works OK, then all is OK, but in general RTV silicon is not recommended for a gasoline sealing application.
    Even in this application, any excess fuel could loosen it or soften it up.
    I've personally had problems in the past using it around fuel.

    Still, there's nothing like a well-fitted 'O' ring. Anything else is a crude fix.
    Personally, I take my carb off fairly often, for jet & needle changes as I mod other things and I hate messing around cleaning off old sealant and re-applying it each time.
  12. mark g

    mark g New Member

    old thread, but if you use the permatex, how long do you have to let it set? (overnite?)
  13. Big Red

    Big Red Active Member


    I don't recomend using permatex either. I've noticed that gas tends to make it soft. In fact, I've used gas to REMOVE permatex. You would have to let it HIGH HEAT dry, like on a hot engine for a month or two to get hard enough to stand up to gas. A good, clean gasket is all you should ever need.
    Big Red.
    OWNER: Fatdaddy"s MotoPeds.
    San Jose.
  14. i like using 2 o-rings one for the top of the carb and one for the intake tube going into the carb and i use small amount of red rtv i'v had no problems
  15. mark g

    mark g New Member

    Thanks, I was thinking of trying it as a temporary measure while I try to adjust my carb better. My engine dies when I back-off the "enrichener". (new style "speed carb", red plastic filter.)
  16. motorpsycho

    motorpsycho Active Member

    actually if you seal the carb, to the intake tube with silicone, gas will never touch that area of the intake tube or the carb.
    put silicone on the intake tube, and slide the carb onto the tintake.
    the carb itself will cover the silicone and make a seal.
    gas will never touch it.