Charge a sla battery with a stator?

[Frankenstein]

The thing is, AC gens do not play well in series or parallel.
You have to turn each to DC power first before before you start adding them together.

Thing is do those gens with the leds already have rectifiers in them, probably not. If they did it could be a bonus but likely they just stuck leds in them and called it a day, seen at least one saying it was leds but a closeup of the lens clearly showed an incandescent bulb...

 

[KCvale]

Incandescent lights can run on AC or DC, LEDs and batteries can't.

 

[Frankenstein]

Incandescent lights can run on AC or DC, LEDs and batteries can't.

Which is why I don't really know what to make of the gens, I know that the ac current runs an incandescent no problem, but leds have issues with the reversal of the current that ac provides, which is why I wonder if the led version actually has a rectifier built in, to help with the flashing that otherwise would occur.

 

[KCvale]

Which is why I don't really know what to make of the gens, I know that the ac current runs an incandescent no problem, but leds have issues with the reversal of the current that ac provides, which is why I wonder if the led version actually has a rectifier built in, to help with the flashing that otherwise would occur.

There may be gens with a full wave rectifier in them, but I never seen one.

Of course you can make a 4 LED light that runs on AC.
Use the LEDs for the 4 diodes that make a full wave rectifier.
2 will always be lit.

 

[Frankenstein]

There may be gens with a full wave rectifier in them, but I never seen one.

Of course you can make a 4 LED light that runs on AC.
Use the LEDs for the 4 diodes that make a full wave rectifier.
2 will always be lit.

Haven't thought about that, bet it would look pretty cool, especially as the speed increases so does the speed of the flashing, now how to I make up for the fact that the higher the speed the higher the voltage produced... Leds don't even like 12 volts straight on, unless they are hooked up in series, but I hear the voltage could spike as much as 30v in these if fast enough normal bike speeds should yield about 12,motorized bike speeds much more, to the point where people claim the lamps burn out a lot... I suppose a regulator does the trick


Still basically off topic, I really wanted to charge a battery while providing enough energy to run lights in excess of 1.5 amps at times, half that if the "highbeams" aren't in use.

 

[Frankenstein]

And if I was to make a rectifier from leds I may as well go and make a rectifier from normal diodes, and throw a capacitor on it, then I'd have steady leds, but only while the wheels are turning, still doesn't help that the wattage on the gens are so low that I'd be lucky to drive half my system on it

 

[Steve Best]

Many automotive LED lights have full wave diode protection and resistors for 12v built into them these days, but you have to check. If it is not there, build it in. LEDs will work on AC when protected. I have used them on my street legal KTM which has an AC system. The same KTM produces more voltage as rpm goes up so it has a regulator, which is really just a 12v sink. Any more than 14.5volts get put to ground (so it runs cooler and last longer with more lights on!). The AC pulse is so fast you will not see it at anything faster than an idle.

So to run a 6v or 12v SLA powered light off the white wire, buy a full wave rectifier and a regulator (off any small dirtbike or cheap old snowmobile). The fullwave rectifier will have 2 wires in (white engine wire and ground) and 2 wires out (+ and -). Your motor is AC grounded so you have to have +and- wires to everything. To hard to disconnect the coil ground and have the ignition work.

The regulator is a little steel or aluminum can with a single wire out of it. Hook this to the white wire (AC side, before the rectifier) and bolt it to the frame or motor. It regulates the AC by limiting maximum voltage to the ideal 14.3 or so needed for Lead Acid Batteries. LiFe or other types will need some sort of battery manager system (BMS).

I run a very small SLA (sealed lead acid) battery on my KTM (in the airbox!) now and have an LED white light in the headlight reflector (along with the AC powered halogen bulb) so if I dump my bike on a dark rainy road, lights will continue to work if the engine stops. Everything but the headlight is DC now, so it will work off the battery. Rectifiers suck watts so I run the headlight on AC. I only have 40W to work a 35W headlight bulb.

Steve

 

[KCvale]

Don't bother trying to use the engines white wire for power!
Do yourself a favor and cut the damn thing off if you have one, new Mags don't even have one they are so lame.

 

[Frankenstein]

Many automotive LED lights have full wave diode protection and resistors for 12v built into them these days, but you have to check. If it is not there, build it in. LEDs will work on AC when protected. I have used them on my street legal KTM which has an AC system. The same KTM produces more voltage as rpm goes up so it has a regulator, which is really just a 12v sink. Any more than 14.5volts get put to ground (so it runs cooler and last longer with more lights on!). The AC pulse is so fast you will not see it at anything faster than an idle.

So to run a 6v or 12v SLA powered light off the white wire, buy a full wave rectifier and a regulator (off any small dirtbike or cheap old snowmobile). The fullwave rectifier will have 2 wires in (white engine wire and ground) and 2 wires out (+ and -). Your motor is AC grounded so you have to have +and- wires to everything. To hard to disconnect the coil ground and have the ignition work.

The regulator is a little steel or aluminum can with a single wire out of it. Hook this to the white wire (AC side, before the rectifier) and bolt it to the frame or motor. It regulates the AC by limiting maximum voltage to the ideal 14.3 or so needed for Lead Acid Batteries. LiFe or other types will need some sort of battery manager system (BMS).

I run a very small SLA (sealed lead acid) battery on my KTM (in the airbox!) now and have an LED white light in the headlight reflector (along with the AC powered halogen bulb) so if I dump my bike on a dark rainy road, lights will continue to work if the engine stops. Everything but the headlight is DC now, so it will work off the battery. Rectifiers suck watts so I run the headlight on AC. I only have 40W to work a 35W headlight bulb.

Steve

Hmm, a KTM certainly has a bigger wattage output than the small rinky dink mag we have on our 2 smokes, I don't see it producing enough power to run anything worthwhile, meanwhile everyone and their brother seems to say to steer clear of that white wire, and my white wire is actually THE SAME as my blue, litteraly they are on the same solder joint, and it is used specifically for the kill switch, I guess it's so you don't need to splice wires on the blue or black, came from Gasbike.net, at least it's a solder joint not a pop rivet, for what it's worth. Drawing too much from my mag specifically would draw from the power my cdi gets, and that's not good.

I've been looking at these stators still, the inner diameter of the flywheel appears to be 14mm roughly, on its largest point, it tapers down a little, I could get a half inch keyed shaft to work with it. #25 chain is a common roller chain size, and found commonly in scooters of a small size, which makes its cheap. Most sprockets that can be found with a pitch to match will have a half inch keyed hole, a few fair gauge steel plates and some careful machining could yield a reliable system to transfer power from somewhere to the stator, and gearing up the ratio will get appreciable speed on the flywheel magnet to make that power.

All the parts exist, they just need to be stitched together to bring it to life.

Cheap drawing included to help explain.

 

[Steve Best]

Yup, I have NO experience with getting power from these motors yet.
All my experience was from the KTM and sleds. Just chimed in with the little I knew from them.

Steve