Clutch adjustment?

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by Neufcruz, Mar 9, 2016.

  1. Neufcruz

    Neufcruz Member

    so I just got her running, still bad and needing tune but question is, how often do you have to keep adjusting clutch? I adjust so it free wheels while lever both all the way and in locked and just a short little ride and it dragging again while in licked and I have to tighten cable a little mire each time. Is this normal in beginning?
    Mike
     

  2. skyash

    skyash Active Member

    You might have chepo pads or if it's garbin ride it a bit longer and where it in. Do you have a stock carby set the pin in the middle setting. if you do I wood put it on and a new or stock plug and it should go like new out the box if it takes off ok but then is bit Missy open the plug gap a little and try it if it doesn't start close the gap and make sure your idel is up enough some times it starts then dies unless you give it sum gas so the idel is to low
     
  3. Greg58

    Greg58 Member

    I would check the cable stand off on the engine, some have adjusters on them, the lock nut could be loose. If you are using the springs that come with the kit between the arm and the stand off the cable may be stretching.
     
  4. Neufcruz

    Neufcruz Member

    It's the stock clutch that came with the gt6 engine kit from gasbike. I removed the spring as I thought the same. Haven't really driven too much so maybe just needs to wear it in some more. ive been using the engine clutch stand off adjustment as well when I run out on lever. I have the dullar/dellorto carb on now but seems way rich. Idles fine, takes off fine but then bogs bad, have to hold it and then sometimes clears up and goes, especially if you rev it up some. I guess burning up the extra fuel. Otherwise it eventually just dies and plug is all wet. I do have the stock carb as well and needle is in middle. Moving it up is leaner I think. I was going to go buy some lower jets tomorrow but wondering if I should just throw the stock one on, get it running, break iti to n and then mess with all the fine tuning I.e. New carb, jetting, right plug as weather is starting to get warmer/hot soon and mess with jaguar CDI settings.

    THanks

    Mike
     
  5. Greg58

    Greg58 Member

    A lot of times doing too many things at one time is confusing, I like to do one upgrade or change at a time in case it doesn't work as planned. If you do several it may leave you guessing which one helped and which didn't.
     
  6. skyash

    skyash Active Member

    Exactly Greg.
    ..I got a hp carby and it made my bike sound better and go better but soon as I hit 40 kmh it just sits there and runs rugged and has done it to all my motors except my pocket bike which it came on stock. If your bike doesn't run or sound like a wipersniper then it's not running right
     
  7. bakaneko

    bakaneko Active Member

    Moving the stock carb needle towards the top end (non pointy end) makes it leaner not the other way around as I think you are describing it. As for the clutch, check the sprocket cover nuts. If you opened it, which I assumed you did to put the chain through the drive sprocket, the nuts could come loose (with riding) since its been opened. A fraction of looseness in the drive sprocket cover = ~1/2" adjustment to your clutch cable tension. There shouldn't be a reason why the pads are wearing out so quickly...
     
  8. skyash

    skyash Active Member

    Thay might not be wearing. But slipping ish I got a motor with red pads in it and was nothing but problems I could not set my clutch for nothing till I put new pads in and it was perfect
     
  9. Neufcruz

    Neufcruz Member

    I agree and typically preach this as well but I bought everything together as a kit and wasn't patient enough to just put the original stock motor as U.S. And then add each additional mod 1 at a time to truly see the difference and help with trouble shooting guesses on multiple things.
    Bike sounds great, real raspy like my old cr250. But still not right. Yes, I have gad the clutch cover off a few times and even since but I loctite and tighten down pretty good. Now I do have the springer chain tensioner which mounts behind the clutch cover and required an additional .8mmball bearing as a spacer. Not sure if this has anything to do with it.
    A properly adjusted clutch in theory should while pulled in and in lock mode, cause no torsion if the back wheel while on stand as well as not feel any additional drug when hoping from fully pulled in to the locked position. This is how I set it but then a trip around the block and I niece drag while in lock mode again. This continues to happen but as said. I only have maybe a mile or 2 of actual miles on the running motor.
    Mike
     
  10. Neufcruz

    Neufcruz Member

    What are the best iAds for my 66cc gt6 motor? Price and from?
    I've changed everything else, might as well change this as well. Lol
    Thanks
    Mike
     
  11. Neufcruz

    Neufcruz Member

    Seems a little better today. Got her running a little better, at least enough to ride it around. Only adjusted once in beginning and since has been ok. Maybe cable streching. Plus I did swap cables right after as it was fraying. So that one might have been streching and kept needing adjusting and then put new cable and started process over again, thinking it was ongoing.
    That's my theory and sticking to it!
     
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