Colorado 47 Model H
- Thread starter Dirt Nerd
- Start date
Back to the rear sheave.
Now that i have the wheel back, 4-cross pattern and all, i can see how the sheave should line up. and most of the holes/spoke slots do. I'm worried that my original sheave is missing tabs or something that keep it into place better. Truing it works fine. getting a majority of the screw holes to line up works. but there are a few that are off by millimeters. when i try to adjust slightly, the whole thing pops out of whack. so i try again... and again. I just dont want it coming off while driving.
Any chance one of you can show me an up close pic of a good condition original sheave from the front and back?
Summer is over. my goal to ride in summer didn't happen. but this is Colorado. the flood waters are subsiding and the roads are being cleared of debris. Soon, i tell myself, Soon.
Now that i have the wheel back, 4-cross pattern and all, i can see how the sheave should line up. and most of the holes/spoke slots do. I'm worried that my original sheave is missing tabs or something that keep it into place better. Truing it works fine. getting a majority of the screw holes to line up works. but there are a few that are off by millimeters. when i try to adjust slightly, the whole thing pops out of whack. so i try again... and again. I just dont want it coming off while driving.
Any chance one of you can show me an up close pic of a good condition original sheave from the front and back?
Summer is over. my goal to ride in summer didn't happen. but this is Colorado. the flood waters are subsiding and the roads are being cleared of debris. Soon, i tell myself, Soon.
Hi Paul, good to hear from you. would be nice to have the sheave tool huh.
Anyways heres one way to make due, place the sheave in the spoke pattern,your's is the H sheave if i remember right, total of 9 sets no spacers. start one set (2 screws) skip 4 screws, do 2 more screws, skip 4,do 2 more. center the sheave with the rim, now you can start to titian the first 3 sets, work your other ones in, might need to bend them some. good luck buddy.
Ray
Anyways heres one way to make due, place the sheave in the spoke pattern,your's is the H sheave if i remember right, total of 9 sets no spacers. start one set (2 screws) skip 4 screws, do 2 more screws, skip 4,do 2 more. center the sheave with the rim, now you can start to titian the first 3 sets, work your other ones in, might need to bend them some. good luck buddy.
Ray
The original used 18 screws, 18 thick washers and 18 square nuts. The square nuts go on the belt side of the sheave. The indents on the sheave and the washers should hold the spokes in the correct location. Be sure to note Ray's advice of skipping holes across the sheave to help alignment. The sheave should work fine on both 12 and 11 ga. spokes.
Then only time extra brackets are needed on the vintage sheaves is with a 24" wheel and the 5" rear brake [all Pacemakers with the 5" brake had extra brackets to align the sheave].
Have fun,
Then only time extra brackets are needed on the vintage sheaves is with a 24" wheel and the 5" rear brake [all Pacemakers with the 5" brake had extra brackets to align the sheave].
Have fun,
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Hi gang! thanks for the direction. I'll give this a shot. what i fear has happened, is, the dimple that is opposite the spoke to keep the washer level has been pushed back in or broken off completely in some form all around. I have the thick washers, followed the Facts instructions and built a truing jig to help. Gonna give it another shot, maybe tonight after the kids go down for bed.
On a good note: my original saddle is in the capable hands of Bob U. I cannot tell you how dang excited i am to have this up and running and riding. One thing's for sure, this forum's members have been there when i have questions.
I thank y'all.
On a good note: my original saddle is in the capable hands of Bob U. I cannot tell you how dang excited i am to have this up and running and riding. One thing's for sure, this forum's members have been there when i have questions.
I thank y'all.
It is possible to simply notch the thick washer to keep spoke in correct location if the dimples are gone. The sheaves for the Ambassador [1951] were made without the dimples because of the special clips used for the 24" wheel with the 5" brake. I have used the Ambassador sheaves before on regular vintage wheels [Schwinn]by simply notching the washers. It can be done with a simple hacksaw blade.
Have fun,
Have fun,
Weekend update: got a new sheave and mostly all is good.
Once mounted, i install the rear wheel per the Service Facts book, the belts seem tight enough but the chain now has a ton of slack. granted, it's a new chain that i already took inches off of, am i going to need to do the same?
When i rolled the bike to the curb for it's photo op, it did not roll freely, like there was too much tension in the belts.
Am i supposed to be able to pedal freely with the clutch disengaged while sitting on the drop stand? Where does the pulley slip?
seat is en route from Bob U in Cali - cannot wait to see it. but unless i can get the drive train sorted, it's just a nice sculpture for my garage.
Once mounted, i install the rear wheel per the Service Facts book, the belts seem tight enough but the chain now has a ton of slack. granted, it's a new chain that i already took inches off of, am i going to need to do the same?
When i rolled the bike to the curb for it's photo op, it did not roll freely, like there was too much tension in the belts.
Am i supposed to be able to pedal freely with the clutch disengaged while sitting on the drop stand? Where does the pulley slip?
seat is en route from Bob U in Cali - cannot wait to see it. but unless i can get the drive train sorted, it's just a nice sculpture for my garage.
When using the original spring, there should be 1/32" between the spring coils.
The belt guard also plays a part as it stops the top of the belt from going "oval".
The brand of the belt can also cause issues. Some brands "squeal" more than others. New belts tend to "creak" a little until broken-in. Adjust front belt to work best, then put the rear belt on sheave and adjust motor or rear wheel to tighten rear belt and chain. You can adjust motor for rear belt tension best by loosening top rear motor nut, and placing a small piece of wood [hammer handle] between the frame and the rear of the motor, then tighten nut when correct.
Bike is looking GREAT!
Have fun,
The belt guard also plays a part as it stops the top of the belt from going "oval".
The brand of the belt can also cause issues. Some brands "squeal" more than others. New belts tend to "creak" a little until broken-in. Adjust front belt to work best, then put the rear belt on sheave and adjust motor or rear wheel to tighten rear belt and chain. You can adjust motor for rear belt tension best by loosening top rear motor nut, and placing a small piece of wood [hammer handle] between the frame and the rear of the motor, then tighten nut when correct.
Bike is looking GREAT!
Have fun,
