Brakes Disc Brakes for a Beach Cruiser?

[Frankenstein]

Mag wheels would work fine, especially the ones pictured, they have disk brake rotors so you can get a sprocket with the 6 bolt holes or even drill your own in a stock sprocket just making absolutely sure you center them to the teeth otherwise an engine will rip the crap out of the hub.

 

[Carl Walichnowski]

Mag wheels would work fine, especially the ones pictured, they have disk brake rotors so you can get a sprocket with the 6 bolt holes or even drill your own in a stock sprocket just making absolutely sure you center them to the teeth otherwise an engine will rip the crap out of the hub.

I'm glad you answered about that particular bike cause I actually like the bike but I wasn't sure if I could put a sprocket adapter on the mag rims. I have a sprocket adapter that's not stock, that wouldn't work would it? See pic.

 

[Carl Walichnowski]

I'm glad you answered about that particular bike cause I actually like the bike but I wasn't sure if I could put a sprocket adapter on the mag rims. I have a sprocket adapter that's not stock, that wouldn't work would it? See pic.

Is this the one with the six holes you were referring to?

 

[Frankenstein]

Is this the one with the six holes you were referring to?

I just rebuilt a wheel, look at the sprocket on it, near the center are 6 holes that otherwise would mount directly to the hub via the holes intended for a disk brake rotor, probably one of the best solutions too since it's simple, doesn't require a fancy clamp, and is inherently stronger as its a direct connection to the hub using 6 points to bolt down. The only disadvantage is that it can't be moved left or right as easily as a hub clamp allowing fine adjustment of the chain alignment. I would just stack spacers if I had to move the sprocket out, or you can add a washer to one side on the axle to offset it a bit to move the sprocket inward.

 

[Frankenstein]

And no, I don't believe that adapter would work at all, it's meant to be clamped unimpeded right to the hub between the spoke flanges, mags put the 'spokes' or arms right in the middle of the hub, exactly where the clamp would otherwise be. A disk brake rotor mount compatible sprocket would really be the only good and safe way to attach to the mag wheels other than switching to a shift kit.

 

[Carl Walichnowski]

OK SOUNDS GREAT. I currently have the 44 tooth sprocket that came stock with the Skyhawk, since I'll most likely be switching it out what size sprocket should I go with in your opinion?

 

[Frankenstein]

OK SOUNDS GREAT. I currently have the 44 tooth sprocket that came stock with the Skyhawk, since I'll most likely be switching it out what size sprocket should I go with in your opinion?

I don't know, how did it feel with a 44 in the first place? Are you changing wheel sizes? Smaller wheel - smaller sprocket, would keep the gear ratio about the same so you'd get the same top speed but easier to get there. Larger wheel would want an equally larger sprocket to keep the same basic speed and keep about the same pulling out strength but at a slower rate of acceleration.

You tell me.

 

[bikejock]

I've been looking at getting a V brake for the front that bolts up to the fender mount for my beach cruiser. This way I can keep my front wheel & fork as factory stock as possbible without having to change the wheel or front fork which can be very expencive & sometimes ruin the look of a bike. The V brake kit I found runs for about $30 on Amazon which is far cheaper than going disk. It's originally for a springer fork used on cruisers & lowriders but I think it would fit for my triple tree fork just fine. I hear they can work just as well as disk brakes if they have good pads & are adjusted properly. I went to my local bike shop & they charge more than $100 to build a wheel around a disk brake hub & a disk brake hub for a decent one can be anywhere between $25 to $100. My friends Giant 700c hybrid bike uses V brakes & it stops just as well as my mountain bike that has disk brakes.

 

[FurryOnTheInside]

I've been looking at getting a V brake for the front that bolts up to the fender mount for my beach cruiser. This way I can keep my front wheel & fork as factory stock as possbible without having to change the wheel or front fork which can be very expencive & sometimes ruin the look of a bike. The V brake kit I found runs for about $30 on Amazon which is far cheaper than going disk. It's originally for a springer fork used on cruisers & lowriders but I think it would fit for my triple tree fork just fine. I hear they can work just as well as disk brakes if they have good pads & are adjusted properly. I went to my local bike shop & they charge more than $100 to build a wheel around a disk brake hub & a disk brake hub for a decent one can be anywhere between $25 to $100. My friends Giant 700c hybrid bike uses V brakes & it stops just as well as my mountain bike that has disk brakes.

In my opinion
It's difficult to draw parallels between the two systems. Its comparing apples to oranges and there are good and bad apples just as there are good and bad oranges.

The performance of any brake is limited by the friction between the tyre and the ground. And how well you set it up and kept it maintained.

Three things that are certain are that:
Disc brakes don't lose performance in wet/muddy conditions.
Disc brakes don't require the rim to be straight/undamaged.
Disc brakes don't wear out the rim.

Magura HS33 hydraulic rim brakes are approx £70 (for a pair, f+r, so you can swap lever sides if necessary), used.
An NRS fork to get one V brake mount is approx £12, used or new.

Shimano Deore hydraulic disc brake is approx £16-20 (each), used.. plus £7-£10 for a used 203mm rotor and a few £ more for a 203 adapter..
A good disc compatible 26" QR front wheel if you don't have one could be another £50-60, used.
Then you can spend anything on a fork, like £50-£1000 depending what you want, but you can resell the fork you currently have so it's not that much to exchange like-for-like.

 

[bikejock]

In my opinion
It's difficult to draw parallels between the two systems. Its comparing apples to oranges and there are good and bad apples just as there are good and bad oranges.

The performance of any brake is limited by the friction between the tyre and the ground. And how well you set it up and kept it maintained.

Three things that are certain are that:
Disc brakes don't lose performance in wet/muddy conditions.
Disc brakes don't require the rim to be straight/undamaged.
Disc brakes don't wear out the rim.

Magura HS33 hydraulic rim brakes are approx £70 (for a pair, f+r, so you can swap lever sides if necessary), used.
An NRS fork to get one V brake mount is approx £12, used or new.

Shimano Deore hydraulic disc brake is approx £16-20 (each), used.. plus £7-£10 for a used 203mm rotor and a few £ more for a 203 adapter..
A good disc compatible 26" QR front wheel if you don't have one could be another £50-60, used.
Then you can spend anything on a fork, like £50-£1000 depending what you want, but you can resell the fork you currently have so it's not that much to exchange like-for-like.

I've had issues with disk brakes in wet conditions on my mountain bike more than V brakes. My disk brakes on my mountain bike make a loud squeeling sound when I apply the brakes when they get wet. Happened a few times on my way to or from work on rainy days. It could be that my pads need replacement or it could be my rotors need replacement. Been a while since I last tuned it up. Never had such a loud sound come from wet V brakes even when the pads or rim was worn. Although the loud sound my disk brakes made did kind of save my life from a car accident because I was riding home in pedal mode one night & a car making a right turn on a red light almost didn't notice me untill I applied my brakes at the last second & it woud have seemed that he heard my loud brakes before he saw me.