AquaManAndy
Member
You might need to just keep rolling it back and forth, or it could be something else. Is your bike properly built? Pictures help out alot.
Gas bike problems
- Thread starter Liam
- Start date
Frankenstein
Deceased - Frankenstein 1991 - 2018
- Local time
- 1:03 AM
- Joined
- Jun 24, 2016
- Messages
- 5,035
Could be he has a flower nut that's ridiculously tight.
The bearing under the shaft might be missing...
The shaft might be missing.
The clutch arm might still have too much slack, to which I add remove that small spring on the clutch cable you don't need it or really want it.
When you pull the clutch lever does the round plate in the big gear move out away from the gear or does it sit there, does the flower nut move out?
Seriously this is an easy one to figure out, the clutch is never so stuck the wheel can't break the plate free, a hammer should have done it equally well. You have something adjusted wrong, that's all I can assume.
The bearing under the shaft might be missing...
The shaft might be missing.
The clutch arm might still have too much slack, to which I add remove that small spring on the clutch cable you don't need it or really want it.
When you pull the clutch lever does the round plate in the big gear move out away from the gear or does it sit there, does the flower nut move out?
Seriously this is an easy one to figure out, the clutch is never so stuck the wheel can't break the plate free, a hammer should have done it equally well. You have something adjusted wrong, that's all I can assume.
Frankenstein
Deceased - Frankenstein 1991 - 2018
- Local time
- 1:03 AM
- Joined
- Jun 24, 2016
- Messages
- 5,035
I think a lot of people are afraid to or simply cannot physically push that clutch arm on the motor inward with their hands so that the plate will pull forward as you adjust the seat of the plate.
THEN you can adjust the clutch arm cable, then once more you adjust the flower nut, but do it with your clutch pulled in as to disengage the clutch when riding. Bring the plate and nut hand snug, then back it off to the next highest notch on the flower nut.
Seriously it takes 2 minutes and keeping up on it and doing it correctly will give you the best results. That secondary spring is ridiculous and complete crap. You only should need the protection spring on the cable house, the smaller one for the "slack" makes it difficult for novices or anyone really from making nice accurate clutch settings. It's often too long and adds too much tension to the already weak parts. It also promotes extra force against that tiny often wimpy screw on the clutch arm.
If you remove the clutch cover you see the big plate, push on the clutch arm that's on the bike engine inwards towards the frame. Keep going untill the arm would make a straightish cable pull from the arm to the little retaining nut thing. Usually a little inward past being parallel with the frame of the bike and engine sides.
Feel free to put a zip tie on that metal arm and loop it around the clutch cable housing retainer nut thing, then tighten the zip tie at the adjustment you are aiming for.
Push the plate in against the clutch pads (assuming you loosened the flower nut and retaining screw,) if it doesn't spring back it's missing the spring that sits behind the silver plate. You should have one, makes for more predictable clutch behavior, and stops this horrible screechy shaking rattle when sitting at a light.
So push the plate in, now tighten the flower nut down to the plate finger tight. Now back it off (unscrew) untill a "spot" on the flower nut is over the retaining screw hole, there's sometimes 2 of them, either is fine. Then let the plate pop up, if the clutch is held in or locked in the wheels/pedals should spin freely of the engine, since the cover is off just make the wheel spin and the plate should spin freely inside the engine without making the gears spin.
Now if that's all good, then be sure to remove that zip tie in case you've forgotten, and move on to checking your carburetor settings without making them worse.
People it's just a clutch, so very not complicated.
THEN you can adjust the clutch arm cable, then once more you adjust the flower nut, but do it with your clutch pulled in as to disengage the clutch when riding. Bring the plate and nut hand snug, then back it off to the next highest notch on the flower nut.
Seriously it takes 2 minutes and keeping up on it and doing it correctly will give you the best results. That secondary spring is ridiculous and complete crap. You only should need the protection spring on the cable house, the smaller one for the "slack" makes it difficult for novices or anyone really from making nice accurate clutch settings. It's often too long and adds too much tension to the already weak parts. It also promotes extra force against that tiny often wimpy screw on the clutch arm.
If you remove the clutch cover you see the big plate, push on the clutch arm that's on the bike engine inwards towards the frame. Keep going untill the arm would make a straightish cable pull from the arm to the little retaining nut thing. Usually a little inward past being parallel with the frame of the bike and engine sides.
Feel free to put a zip tie on that metal arm and loop it around the clutch cable housing retainer nut thing, then tighten the zip tie at the adjustment you are aiming for.
Push the plate in against the clutch pads (assuming you loosened the flower nut and retaining screw,) if it doesn't spring back it's missing the spring that sits behind the silver plate. You should have one, makes for more predictable clutch behavior, and stops this horrible screechy shaking rattle when sitting at a light.
So push the plate in, now tighten the flower nut down to the plate finger tight. Now back it off (unscrew) untill a "spot" on the flower nut is over the retaining screw hole, there's sometimes 2 of them, either is fine. Then let the plate pop up, if the clutch is held in or locked in the wheels/pedals should spin freely of the engine, since the cover is off just make the wheel spin and the plate should spin freely inside the engine without making the gears spin.
Now if that's all good, then be sure to remove that zip tie in case you've forgotten, and move on to checking your carburetor settings without making them worse.
People it's just a clutch, so very not complicated.
