How often do you fix your chain drivin kit-

[wheelbender6]

It's possible that I damaged my clutch during the newbie phase or perhaps I just got a bad clutch with my kit. I wasn't wiling to replace the stock hand clutch and potentially go through the same ordeal again.
if you have a link to this "centrifugal clutch modification", I'd like to have it.

 

[Fabian]

Hard to say what is going on with your manual clutch because i am not able to get my grubby hands on it.
Basically the stock clutch works surprisingly well if using the old (original) asbestos impregnated clutch pads, which you can still get as a spare parts item.
So longs as the clutch pad friction surfaces are clean from oil and grease, it should work ok once bedded in, and that can take up to 300 miles of use.

The great thing with the optional centrifugal clutch is you get to keep the stock clutch - this has positive benefits, if the centrifugal clutch starts to lock up and also allows you to slip the clutch for a tyre smoking quick getaway.

Sending you a PM on the clutch modification

 

[Steve1990]

As of late (last few days), I've been fighting with the crappy stock NT carb. I've got it to run pretty well, but it surges at wide-open-throttle. It'll surge to ~28mph, then bog to 22, then surge to 28, you get the idea.

I think I found the no-spark issue that got the bike parked in 2009, the brass fitting/contact thing in the plug end of the wire was stripped out of the plastic, and just kinda sitting in there. Made a pin that goes thru a hole I drilled thru the brass thing, thru the plastic and to the outside of the plug end, where its bent over, pinning the whole thing together very solidly. Works great now, was apparently part of my wide-open-throttle stalling issue. stupid crappy stock CDI. I think I'm going to try and get a better plug-end or wire on the CDI, but for now it works and I can hopefully get the carb tuned properly.

So, crappy engine, crappy ignition, crappy carb, crappy chain tensioner, but with some tweaking and ingenuity it can be made to be reliable, or if you are really lucky, will work out of the box. Managed to put ~40 miles on mine yesterday without a single breakdown. Which is the most for a single day since it broke down on me in 2009.

 

[2stroker]

As of late (last few days), I've been fighting with the crappy stock NT carb. I've got it to run pretty well, but it surges at wide-open-throttle. It'll surge to ~28mph, then bog to 22, then surge to 28, you get the idea.

I think I found the no-spark issue that got the bike parked in 2009, the brass fitting/contact thing in the plug end of the wire was stripped out of the plastic, and just kinda sitting in there. Made a pin that goes thru a hole I drilled thru the brass thing, thru the plastic and to the outside of the plug end, where its bent over, pinning the whole thing together very solidly. Works great now, was apparently part of my wide-open-throttle stalling issue. stupid crappy stock CDI. I think I'm going to try and get a better plug-end or wire on the CDI, but for now it works and I can hopefully get the carb tuned properly.

So, crappy engine, crappy ignition, crappy carb, crappy chain tensioner, but with some tweaking and ingenuity it can be made to be reliable, or if you are really lucky, will work out of the box. Managed to put ~40 miles on mine yesterday without a single breakdown. Which is the most for a single day since it broke down on me in 2009.

With all the extra money someone is going to spend making there kit reliable you might as well fork out the extra $100 and just get a kit outta the box that will run for thousands of miles with out any special needs. this kit is brand new but i gotta go buy better parts for it and rebuild it so its atleast kinda reliable..Those chinese kits have good sales people. They could take a turd wrap it in tin foil and sell it to the queen of england as earings!! Why buy a kit that you gota fix right outta the box. Because its 179 bucks. Then you gotta go and spend another 100..hmmm am i the only one that see's something wrong with that? I think those kits give motorized bikes a bad name. Not everyone is a mechanic. I prefer friction drive or atleast a reliable chain drive. They are out there. Somewhere i haven't seen em. Im sure fabian knows where they are? Wow 40miles lucky you. HEHE

 

[Steve1990]

Its all in good fun. I think that's where you and I differ in our point of view on this. I bought the thing knowing it was going to need work to be right, but it sounded like a fun challenge, and it is. I'm not using the thing as primary transportation, so if its down, meh, its NBD. I find it to be alot of fun and kinda relaxing to work on it. its just so simple, which may be part of its downfall. As of yet, I have yet to buy a single new part except for a handful of nuts and bolts. Everything else has been improvised, or is stuff I already had lying around.

If I were to use something like this as primary means of transport, I would go with a 4-stroke kit. Or better yet, buy a purpose built Moped (or use the one I have, which I did for a few years). To me its alot less fun to have something like this and NOT have to tinker with it to get it right.

I'm sure fabian has a similar point of view. Sounds like he built his as a challenge to himself to see just what these little things could do. It really is alot of fun.

 

[Fabian]

2stroker are you still pounding on your friction drive!

 

[Fabian]

Actually the stock NT carburettor is quite reliable once the component parts are brought into spec with their correct settings. A few things can happen with these carburettors - the tube holding the carburettor main jet can unscrew and fall out, the main jet can unscrew from the jet holder, the tangs which engage the float can be misaligned, requiring height correction to enable the needle to engage the seat, there can be air leaks from the top of carburettor body to screw on cap, there can be air leaks between carburettor body clamp and intake tube.

Going on 2 and a half years since i've built my motorized bicycle and i've never had a problem with the carburettor once methodically eliminating the above points.
In my case the cost of modifications were only two o-rings - everything else was in spec.

 

[BchCruizer]

Its all in good fun. I think that's where you and I differ in our point of view on this. I bought the thing knowing it was going to need work to be right, but it sounded like a fun challenge, and it is. I'm not using the thing as primary transportation, so if its down, meh, its NBD. I find it to be alot of fun and kinda relaxing to work on it. its just so simple, which may be part of its downfall. As of yet, I have yet to buy a single new part except for a handful of nuts and bolts. Everything else has been improvised, or is stuff I already had lying around.

If I were to use something like this as primary means of transport, I would go with a 4-stroke kit. Or better yet, buy a purpose built Moped (or use the one I have, which I did for a few years). To me its alot less fun to have something like this and NOT have to tinker with it to get it right.

I'm sure fabian has a similar point of view. Sounds like he built his as a challenge to himself to see just what these little things could do. It really is alot of fun.

I dont think 4 stroke's are any good. I like 2stroke engines better they are made to run faster and higher rpms. and you need that if you plan on going down any hills

 

[Richard H.]

Yeah, four strokes are no good, lol, that must be why Honda and Robin Subaru have 3 year warranties on their engines. :laugh4:

 

[Fabian]

4-strokes are great if you like the unappealing look and weight of a rototiller engine bolted onto your bike - 2-strokes will always be the engine of choice for those who take their hobby seriously.