T
The Hornet
Guest
The operation was a success...no problems at all. I am going to wait until the bike is together to tighten up the nut so the chain will keep the motor from turning over.
Thanks again!
Thanks again!
G
gone_fishin
Guest
drive sprocket removal tool
I
Irish John
Guest
it is very important to take out pin ... ball bearing is ok but if you leave pin, it will damage clutch when you tighten gear puller (it pushes pin n bearing too far and bends the clutch plate allowing bearing to get jammed)
I did that and that is why azvinnie's trike is now electric
This is the funniest comment I've read on MBc. Sad about the motor but very funny to read.
azbill
Active Member
I hope this thread helped ya dude
I have done it numerous times now...and it is just that easy
we ended up beating his dead engine into pieces with a sledgeI felt better after doing it too !
I have done it numerous times now...and it is just that easy
we ended up beating his dead engine into pieces with a sledge
I felt better after doing it too !
I
Irish John
Guest
Great Help Azbill
This page has been really good so thanks Azbill and special thanks to Fetor 56 who explains everything simply in Ozspeak.
Oh yes, I'd have sledged the motor to death in your garden too if you'd told me where you lived. I'd love to go into the Chinese factory with my Percy Sledge and take a few swings at the guys in the precision engineering dept.!
This page has been really good so thanks Azbill and special thanks to Fetor 56 who explains everything simply in Ozspeak.
Oh yes, I'd have sledged the motor to death in your garden too if you'd told me where you lived. I'd love to go into the Chinese factory with my Percy Sledge and take a few swings at the guys in the precision engineering dept.!
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I
Irish John
Guest
H
hellbilly
Guest
Just crank down on that middle bolt and the sprocket will come off.
I
Irish John
Guest
Done it
Thanks Hellbilly, Fetor56 told me to put a 22mm spanner on the big one and hit the 14mm one hard with a rubber mallet.
I have eventually replaced the sprocket but they are all badly engineered sprockets and the first 100km makes me sick listening to the chain stretching and grinding over the sprocket. Poor Japanese chain being subjected to that sort of abuse. The supplier says I can file the sprockets down so they don't do that but that's like being sold a pair of trousers three sizes too small and being told to not eat for 6 months so I'll fit into them.
Thanks Hellbilly, Fetor56 told me to put a 22mm spanner on the big one and hit the 14mm one hard with a rubber mallet.
I have eventually replaced the sprocket but they are all badly engineered sprockets and the first 100km makes me sick listening to the chain stretching and grinding over the sprocket. Poor Japanese chain being subjected to that sort of abuse. The supplier says I can file the sprockets down so they don't do that but that's like being sold a pair of trousers three sizes too small and being told to not eat for 6 months so I'll fit into them.
BoltsMissing
Active Member
Howdy Irish, hope I have not got to this too late.
I noticed the engineering of the sprocket is what it is, ( and thanks to Fetor who helped at the time to.)
What I did was sort of ran my finger on the edges of the sprocket teeth and if it felt like it was cutting skin,which it did, I would take my time and simply use a very fine file to take out that razor like sharpness.
I improvised a bit by using 2000 wet&dry with oil, and I used the wire brush part of my bench grinder to give it a bit of a polish.
Then I ran the chain through the teeth and just try to visualize what it will be doing when it's all working.
But get rid of the sharpness on the edges of the sprocket where the chain engages.
It ought to feel like a smoth run and no need to use band-aids to stop the bleeding off ya fingers !
BoltsM
I noticed the engineering of the sprocket is what it is, ( and thanks to Fetor who helped at the time to.)
What I did was sort of ran my finger on the edges of the sprocket teeth and if it felt like it was cutting skin,which it did, I would take my time and simply use a very fine file to take out that razor like sharpness.
I improvised a bit by using 2000 wet&dry with oil, and I used the wire brush part of my bench grinder to give it a bit of a polish.
Then I ran the chain through the teeth and just try to visualize what it will be doing when it's all working.
But get rid of the sharpness on the edges of the sprocket where the chain engages.
It ought to feel like a smoth run and no need to use band-aids to stop the bleeding off ya fingers !
BoltsM
I
Irish John
Guest
Thans Bolts
You're right Bolts but I need a vice to hold the sprocket while I'm working on it. A grinding polishing tool like what you have would be great too. I'll use a friends one but in the meantime I'll leave the sprocket on and let it wear its edges off on one of those lousy 415 chains that come with the kit. It's so annoying that the sprockets aren't cleaned up in the factory and it is positively dangerous to supply them in the state they do given that they are such a critical part of the drive train. The old sprocket (1 week old) I'll do as you recommend. When the sprocket has worn good I'll put on a nice Yaban 415 chain or an extreme BMX chain. Both those chains are light and delicately engineered so are thinner than the usual 415 ones. I find the thinner chains are so much smoother to ride with
You're right Bolts but I need a vice to hold the sprocket while I'm working on it. A grinding polishing tool like what you have would be great too. I'll use a friends one but in the meantime I'll leave the sprocket on and let it wear its edges off on one of those lousy 415 chains that come with the kit. It's so annoying that the sprockets aren't cleaned up in the factory and it is positively dangerous to supply them in the state they do given that they are such a critical part of the drive train. The old sprocket (1 week old) I'll do as you recommend. When the sprocket has worn good I'll put on a nice Yaban 415 chain or an extreme BMX chain. Both those chains are light and delicately engineered so are thinner than the usual 415 ones. I find the thinner chains are so much smoother to ride with
