I hope you didn't cut up that frame quite yet. You can order canty studs and braze them on with silver solder and a propane torch. Its not that difficult. The hard part is making sure there at the right placement and parallel so your brakes are aligned correctly. There is a bit of adjustment in the brakes but its better to have them right to start with.
just like to add Mike
the half rounds I ended up with I intend to attach them to the frame for the time being with hose clips so I can be certain they are in the right position before welding.
Too easy plus around the mounting point is beefed up
just like to add Mike
the half rounds I ended up with I intend to attach them to the frame for the time being with hose clips so I can be certain they are in the right position before welding.
Too easy plus around the mounting point is beefed up
I am hoping that if your using hose clamps your just using them to "size things up" I can't be sure of the force needed to hold the brake in place while it is stopping you from 50 miles per hour.(downhill, tailwind ect.)
Back when dinosaurs ruled the earth I had a recumbent frame made for me that had the seat held on by a pair of hose clamps. The bike was a single tube design, looked cool but it would not hold the seat on the tube, So I crashed the thing about six times on the way to work. since it was only eight inches off the ground I did not have far to fall, But I did look kind of silly.
Man I would love to have a good TIG set up with a high frequency circuit. It would make my life a lot easier. TIG is fast and fast equals cheep. Some day when I am rich and famous.
yeah right Mike its just to line everything up.
I could see a cantilever having spokes for lunch
and me dining on gravel
Yes I had a parachute accident 22 years ago and it like you it gives me insight into dangers.
I like the idea of recumbants but unsure of the bail-out proceedure.
Like harley riders with their feet out front must bad in a collision
have a nice day
Falcon freewheel 5/6 will work fine with shimano 6 7 8 speed shifters
If you have a proper derailleur hanger on the bike (welded or bolted on, not the type of derailleur that used the axle to mount and a little screw to keep from rotating), there is a tension screw that touches the dropout, with the screw head visible from the back of the bike. Tightening this screw moves the derailleur's top pulley away from the cogs, and may very well oversensitize it to cable movement. It should be adjusted so that the top pulley teeth do not strike the teeth of the cogs.
If the shifter is 6/7/8 and the cog is 5 or 6, the shifter should be adjusted so that the lowest gear detent corresponds with the lowest (largest rear cog) on the freewheel.
It helps if the axle stack (nuts cones etc) are placed so that the freewheel's highest gear is close as practically possible to the dropout. (this may require dishing of the wheel if large changes are made by moving nuts and washers i.e. literally moving the hub).
Make sure you are using compressionless cable housings and plenty of lubrication. Don't skip out on using the proper ferrules.
Also, make sure you're not using apples and oranges. On cheaper department store type bikes that utilize index shifting, if you have a Shimano shifter and say a Falcon freewheel set, you will probably get inconsistant shifting. It has to do with cog spacing and deraileur travel.