Hi Klinde,
Just keep a close watch on the bearing sleeve, as when it "destructs", it will eat the $60.00 needle bearing, and lock the clutch up. Symptoms of problems may start with the bike failing to start because the one-way needle bearing no longer engaging.
Another classic idea concerns the seal, why not move it to the inside to stop the grease from getting on the shoes.
I am attaching several pictures so that you may see what fails in a short amount of time. Several of the pictures are from the latest clutch from Taiwan, and you can see the tool marks on the bearing sleeve. Ask any expert [racie35]what happens when you run HIGH speed needle bearings on a soft rough shaft. Sadly the latest from Taiwan can't be upgraded, as the hub has been cut back to allow the mounting bolt to recess inside the hub. Because the hub is cut back it doesn't leave any surface to press on a new hardened sleeve. The pictures will also show the necessary bearing sleeve that must be modified to fit [a machine shop process]the earlier rebuild-able clutches. Please note the picture with the earlier hub closeup and you can see the surface needed to press on a new sleeve, as it stops about 8 MM short of the end.
I guess these actual photos, and a few comments will help others in avoiding wasting their money. So far the average life of the new clutch is approx. 400 miles [not bad about $.50 per mile before replacement]. The 400 mile number was an average life span of the 11 Taiwan clutches sent to me for upgrading [sadly they can't be repaired]. I do know for sure the quality will vary greatly form Taiwan, and some will last longer or shorter than others.
Hope this information is helpful, and if anyone wants the part numbers of the, one-way needle bearing, bearing sleeve what needs to be done to it. I will gladly supply the information if anyone wants to have their own local machine shop do the work, just remember the latest versions are exempt for re-building [can't be fixed for a reasonable amount].
Have fun,
Just keep a close watch on the bearing sleeve, as when it "destructs", it will eat the $60.00 needle bearing, and lock the clutch up. Symptoms of problems may start with the bike failing to start because the one-way needle bearing no longer engaging.
Another classic idea concerns the seal, why not move it to the inside to stop the grease from getting on the shoes.
I am attaching several pictures so that you may see what fails in a short amount of time. Several of the pictures are from the latest clutch from Taiwan, and you can see the tool marks on the bearing sleeve. Ask any expert [racie35]what happens when you run HIGH speed needle bearings on a soft rough shaft. Sadly the latest from Taiwan can't be upgraded, as the hub has been cut back to allow the mounting bolt to recess inside the hub. Because the hub is cut back it doesn't leave any surface to press on a new hardened sleeve. The pictures will also show the necessary bearing sleeve that must be modified to fit [a machine shop process]the earlier rebuild-able clutches. Please note the picture with the earlier hub closeup and you can see the surface needed to press on a new sleeve, as it stops about 8 MM short of the end.
I guess these actual photos, and a few comments will help others in avoiding wasting their money. So far the average life of the new clutch is approx. 400 miles [not bad about $.50 per mile before replacement]. The 400 mile number was an average life span of the 11 Taiwan clutches sent to me for upgrading [sadly they can't be repaired]. I do know for sure the quality will vary greatly form Taiwan, and some will last longer or shorter than others.
Hope this information is helpful, and if anyone wants the part numbers of the, one-way needle bearing, bearing sleeve what needs to be done to it. I will gladly supply the information if anyone wants to have their own local machine shop do the work, just remember the latest versions are exempt for re-building [can't be fixed for a reasonable amount].
Have fun,