Quick And Easy Staton

Discussion in 'Friction Drive' started by vegaspaddy, Oct 23, 2008.

  1. vegaspaddy

    vegaspaddy Member

    compared to my other builds getting this engine up and running was pre-school level.

    The Swchinn bike a discontinued walmart find, it was supposed to be $160 rung up at $89 when i got to checkout, unfortunately it was the last one otherwise i might have bought a few more.... I like it, nice ride and came with the two waterbottle mounts which my mongoose doesnt have...

    The staton kit i bought of another member who had owned it a couple of weeks, sold it because he needed the funds for college, has the mits 43cc and a 1.25 roller installed.

    The ease with you can put on these kits is outstanding, simple fittings and once secured solid.

    I am going for a nice clean look on this bike , i replaced the seat for the $20 gel pack one and upgraded the rear tire to a specialized armadillo bomb proof, greenfield rear mount stand, but thats about it, light as possible and pleasant on the eye.

    (My Gebe mongoose which i still am messing with, 6 months later, has too much unneccessary thingies .... )

    I took for a quick ride and after riding around on my wifes trike with the 50cc engine i forgot what the raw power of the 2 stroke sounded like, lions roaring !!!! Mounted a bell wireless speedo but i think its a lemon kept cutting in and out, but without much effort i was probably cruising at 25, 30 full throttle, will pick up a new speedo tonight and see what this baby can do.

    happy motoring vegas.....

    Attached Files:

  2. DetonatorTuning

    DetonatorTuning Active Member

    nice VP, i think you scored the "simple" ticket on that one.

    to make things easier, just take that wireless speedo back, they are all junk. on the other hand the wired 12 function unit is very reliable and cheaper.

    i've just sarted to see pics of these Mitz. motors and am quite taken back with how huge they look compared to the GP460, must be the carb and exhaust covers o rsomething.

  3. vegaspaddy

    vegaspaddy Member

    thanks steve,

    yea that bell wireless unit is going back to walmart tonight to be replaced by the $14 swchinn wired unit much more realible. Funny i have a wireless bell on the gebe mongoose and it works perfectly, but when i compared the two units they have changed the design funny eh!! The wireless was nice because its one less wire hanging around but now that they are unreliable not worth the extra $$$$.

    The mits setup does look huge compared to my tanaka 33cc, but i think its because the casing pretty much shrouds the entire engine making it look big and bulky. It does look like a bit of a beast mounted on the back now that you mentioned it, but its as light as any of the other engines.
  4. seanhan

    seanhan Member

    Nice Looking Bike !!! What a deal 89 bucks... I wonder if my walmart has one.
    How do you like the friction drive it is as good as the GEBE ?? Thats what I want to do,build one of each, even a HT !!!
    I got the schwinn speedo at walmart for $ 8.00 (wired) works great.
  5. Esteban

    Esteban Active Member

    Hard to beat that type friction drive, if that fits your needs. Looks good & dependable, too.
    Wireless speedometers DO work well, but not the cheaper ones, & not on many China times motors. [ electrical interference ] " CatEye " is a brand name to go with for better quality & reliability. You can catch these , wireless, on sale for around $29.
    Last edited: Oct 24, 2008
  6. SirJakesus

    SirJakesus Guest

    I have just about the same setup on my NEXT but with a 1.38in (or whatever the next size up from 1.25) roller. I'm impressed with its speed, low weight and how quiet she is until you start revving it to the extreme. I'm sure you'll love it as much as I do.
  7. vegaspaddy

    vegaspaddy Member

    speed update.

    Well after finishing the halloween decorations, my wife kept at me !!!!!

    returned my bell wireless, was mad about that, the old one still works fine, why do they always have to go and change stuff around

    put the new speedo on the bike and went for a quick blast down the street. I lied i was off about 5 mph on me, comfortable cruise 20mph and top speed of 25 mph.

    Considering i dont intend spending much more money in anything on this bike i am happy with those speeds plenty quick enough for puttering around on.

    Maybe next year i might splash out (or christmas present to myself) and go for a bigger roller but i dont really see the point. I have topped out my gebe at 34 mph with the 13 tooth gear i havnt even tried the 14 tooth which would push me up say an extra 5 mph, and theres no way i want to be going that speed on a push bike.

    Although 20 mph doesnt sound that fast for most bikes its a very comfortable speed, you can cruise around on pretty relaxed, the faster the speed the more focused you have to be to your surroundings and the more it feels like a part of your bike is going to fly off at any moment AHH!!!!

    Comparing to my gebe its hard, my poor gebe is like a transformer gone bad too much s..t, maybe i will strip half the junk off it and start enjoying my first baby again... heavy duty wheels, light systems, horns, etc.. etc...the bike weighs more than ME!!!!!
  8. vegaspaddy

    vegaspaddy Member

    hi guys, i have ordered the 1.5 roller for my bike, would like just a little bit more top speed, so seriously is this going to be a nightmare to install.

    If so i will drop it down at a local lawnmower repair and see if they can help me out,

    i also ordered a new set of bearings just in case!!!!
  9. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    vegaspaddy, I've had 1.125", 1.25", 1.375" and now 1.5" rollers on my Mitsubishi engines. They all have their advantages and disadvantages.

    It IS possible to change from small to large rollers yourself, IFFF they are 1.25" and smaller. What I did was drill two holes straddling the outbpoard bearing. After removing the circlips, you can use an automotive steering wheel puller to PUSH the entire assembly out. You can then use an automotive gear puller to remove off the bearings.

    The clutch drum is a bear to remove without damaging it. Much simpler to buy a new drum, spacer and bearings instead of reusing the original parts.

    Buy your bearings from ebay or another source than MB vendors. Mine cost $25 for 10 bearings. MB vendors price is $13/pair.

    Of course the 1.5" roller cannot fit through the 1.375" bearing holes. Neither can the 1.375" spindle. The roller install from underneath and the bearings can be pressed/pounded on from the sides.

    HINT: If you machine down the friction roller ends and the housing bearing holes a little, the bearings can be a SLIP-FIT and make it MUCH MUCH easier to remove and reinstall friction rollers.

    Without the slip-fit on the rollers and the aluminum housing, a machinist's skills will be needed to remove the 1.375" or 1.5" rollers. (The machinist charged me $30 just to remove the roller from the housing.

    Then I installed the 1.5" spindle myself.

    Be prepared for aggressive pedalling and slow pickup when you install the large roller. With a single Mitsubishi engine and 1.5" roller, my top speed was about 34mph on the flats.

    With TWO Mitsubishi engines with 1.5" rollers, top speed of 38.5mph on even ground.

    And I'm also pedalling agressively for better low-end acceleration.:sweatdrop:
    Last edited by a moderator: Apr 20, 2009
  10. vegaspaddy

    vegaspaddy Member

    hi heaven,

    yeap i had read your about your ordeals on another thread and was expecting the worse...... sounds like a royal pain in the buttt

    and all those automotive tools my heads spinning....
  11. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    vegaspaddy, it always ends well for me.:devilish:

    I believe I've solved my engine stumbling problem.

    You don't HAVE to drill the housing and use automotive tools.

    Your local machinist would be competent enough to swap the friction rollers.:idea:
  12. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    Quick And Easy BMP Kit

    I just started assembling my new BMP friction drive kit.

    The engine channel has a SLIP-FIT!!!!! for the spindle bearings!:detective:

    What's more, my used Staton roller wore the chrome off its ends, so now the roller is a SLIP-FIT!!! onto the bearings!

    I'm using Staton rollers in the BMP kit because they have more of a selection to choose from. Staton and BMP roller assemblies are interchangeable. BMP's clutch drum has metric threads while Staton has American threads. That means ya can't mix/match individual drive components.

    I'm not missing BMP's one-way roller bearing. I can live without it.:detective:
  13. fetor56

    fetor56 Guest

    Is this new kit going to be used in conjunction with the GP460?
  14. vegaspaddy

    vegaspaddy Member

    New roller came in,(its huge compared to my other one) i can see this pushing a decent top speed....

    now i could only figure how to put in on !!!!!!!! :confused:

    I just found my bike back at walmart today they want $150 or so, i guess i got real lucky...

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Apr 26, 2009
  15. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    Yes it is.

    Methinks friction drive can tame the powerful 460 engine without breaking parts like other experimenters using GEBE, Staton chain drive and Scooterguy's chain drive. It's probably the least efficient but the simplest and least likely to self-destruct.

    The engine channel can easily be strengthened with 3/8" allthread and four nuts. Three braces positioned front, middle and rear makes for a superstrong housing. An extra pair of struts positioned midship would also help, as well as another front U-bracket bolted onto the seatpost.

    vegaspaddy, remove the bearing off that fat friction roller. Lay the engine channel on its back and position the roller. Now push each bearing into the channel from the outside. When you do this both bearings will begin to slip onto the roller.

    Now get a large C-clamp and press the bearings into place.

    To remove the large roller, reverse the procedure.


    Try as I might, I couldn't figure a way to remove the 1.375" or 1.5" rollers from the Staton engine channel. A machinist charged me $30 to do it.

    NOWWWW if you had a BMP friction kit, the bearings are a SLIP-FIT!!! onto the engine channel. Unfortunately both vendors' bearings PRESS-FIT onto the friction roller for Staton and driveshaft for BMP.

    It's the plating on the new Staton roller that makes the bearings a press-fit. On a used roller the plating wears away and the spindle becomes a SLIP-FIT onto the inner race.

    Sooo, if you have your local machinist clearance the bearing holes in the Staton engine channel ANNND machine the new roller's ends, then you'll be able to install and remove your friction rollers "Quick And Easy Staton"!:idea:

    If not, it's time to pay the machinist each time you decide to change rollers.

    Ask me how to easily remove the clutch drum.:detective:

    Then ask me how to clearance the drum spacer so the engine mounting bolts bolt on easier.:idea:

    Then ask me about machining the clutch drum spacer for a 46% increase in clutch surface area.:idea:
  16. vegaspaddy

    vegaspaddy Member

    Ask me how to easily remove the clutch drum.

    Then ask me how to clearance the drum spacer so the engine mounting bolts bolt on easier.

    Then ask me about machining the clutch drum spacer for a 46% increase in clutch surface area.

    5-7 heaven your killing me ahhhhhhhhhhh:rambo::huh2:
  17. fetor56

    fetor56 Guest

    Sorry 5-7 heaven but i've gotta agree with vegaspaddy here....it does get a bit :rolleyes7:
    Now that i've insulted u enough can u do me a big favor(Re,BMP's+GP460)
    I won't be posting more about this here cos i'de feel like i was hijacking vegaspaddy's thread;is it possible for u to keep us all informed(via a new thread) on this build?
    I'm sure other ppl are interested & i for 1 am thinking about following in your footsteps. :idea:
  18. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    vwgaspaddy, I'm sorry. I just get carried away sometimes.:sweatdrop:

    The Staton kit is an excellent one. It is a quick and easy install out of the box.

    Changing rollers just isn't quick...or easy.

    Okay fetor56, I already started a thread in this section. I'll even try to post pics.
    Last edited by a moderator: Apr 27, 2009
  19. vegaspaddy

    vegaspaddy Member


    dont worry about it, but if you had posted about the 460 again i would have been on the next plane to HAWAII......:leaving: I wish !!!!

    Whats great about the fourm is we can come here to look for ideas and help when we need it. 5-7 heaven you were just confirming my thoughts that i will need help to switch out the new roller before i start doing someting stupid and mess the whole thing up.

    I am learning to know my limits and somethings are best left to experts thats why i buy the kits, easy bolt on and the easy tinkering if i choose !!!! (well the GEBE is anyway)

    Its fun messing, and yes even we can feel like a 12 year old kid again messing around with our bikes and yes lots of pictures- pictures- pictures they help everyone like me try to understand what the h%&# you are talking about...

    Happy Travels VP....:D