Rear rack Greyhound mountain build

[rustycase]

4950.... Tnx a bunch!
I've GOT to keep your advice bookmarked...

Actually, I bought the 6.5 greyhound because it was a deal that could not be beat.
I would say my goal is a gx35 or gc50.
IMO they are more acceptable for this bicycle application's purpose and intent.

I'm keeping my eyes peeled for a bargain on the honda 4 strokes...

Loquin, I don't know what a 'max-torque' is... is that same as a Comet drive?


Best
rc

 

[loquin]

Similar - Max Torque is a different supplier, and one that's still in business!

Theirs is a two-piece design - separate drive and driven unit. Part of the driven unit is a spring-loaded sheave (as the drive unit pulley diameter gets bigger, the driven unit's spring-loaded sheave gets smaller.) Note that Comet's design also had the drive and driven pulley - they just marketed one of their designs to include a mounting plate that bolted to the engine, the pulley, and bearings, driven shaft/sheave/bearings, and cover, all under in one package. Comet also sold the individual drive/driven units...

Having BOTH the drive unit and the driven unit change diameters simultaneously increases the ratio change. You can use a fixed pulley as the driven unit, if you also add a spring loaded idler, to take up slack when the drive pulley gets smaller. Of course, this eliminates about half of the ratio change, but, it would allow you to use the drive unit as a part of a speed reducing jackshaft - just one that changes ratios automatically.

As a third approach, if you want to make a manual drive ratio change, you can use just the driven unit, a fixed drive pulley, and a manually adjusted idler pulley. As you move the idler out from the center line of the pulley drive, it will cause the spring-loaded sides of the driven sheave to spread, decreasing it's diameter, and decreasing the drive ratio.

As with the first approach I mentioned, this also removes some of the drive ratio range, but it lets you manually adjust the drive range. It's similar to how (among others) John Deere adjusts the ratios on the manual transmission garden tractors. (in their case, they used a double sheave though)

 

[4950cycle]

Thnx for the Koodoes RC. What state do you linve in ? they must be pretty lienent for you to run around with 6.5 hp on a bicycle. Heck, 20-30 years ago a lot of 125cc -175cc motorcycles only had about that much power ! They claimed more hp but if it was it wasn't much more. And Lou, I think they call them Symetrical and non or A-symetrical torque converters. I alway wondered if a person could run only one half of the torque converter. According to you one can. I had a bad *** one (a snowmobile type torque converter) on a Honda Odysee ATV. With what was the equivelent of an Elsinore 250 2 stroke engine it was a force to be recond with. It was one of the forrunners of the 4 wheeler ATVs of today but you sat in it like a dune buggy. Not on it like a motor cycle. And to close my post with something motor bicycle related, The adjustable version of the variable v-belt torque converter you mentioned could be built Lou "WAS" built back in the 1940s-50s. It was on the Simplex motorbike. The only bicycle company that was ever in the south in the USA. They were in Luisiana. My Dad had one clear up in Ohio in the late 40s early 50s and still talks about that doggone thing to this day ! It worked well BTW he says. I would like to talk to you about that idea one day Lou.

 

[rustycase]

Whew!

You guys are way advanced of me ! LOL

I recognize some of those names, but have little knowledge of them I could usefully apply to the situation at hand.

LOL (We're outta gas!) ..can't afford it, same thing...

I've got a treadmill mechanism that uses a slider for the electric motor which changes the variable pulley, buried out in my pile... I don't know if it could be re-purposed or not.
I was gonna put it on my little wood turning lathe.
THAT can wait!

Y'all are both great!
Let me review what you have said, and then I'll be able to return and axe intelligent questions...

Once had a honda hobbit with cvt drive... HAD to sell it because the basic geometry was WRONG and the front end washed out and every rider that was ever on it went DOWN on low speed turns.

Best
rc

 

[4950cycle]

Thats alright RC, Its just a lot of fluff @ this point. It ain't nothin till ya actually do it, right ? I like that idea Lou has though. Id like to study it a little further with his help possibly. I guess i could take a look at it myself but it sounds like he might know a bit more about it than I. I do like my idea, it works good and its pretty simple. And very fixable if it ever broke. I can't see what would break though. BTW Lou, It was a variable V belt with 4 incriments, a 4 speed esentially. Simplex only had them about 2-4 years in the early 50s. The rest were the automatic design. I wonder how much ratio change is in only half of a Max torqe variable V-belt torque converter ??

 

[loquin]

... And Lou, I think they call them Symetrical and non or A-symetrical torque converters. I alway wondered if a person could run only one half of the torque converter. According to you one can. I had a bad *** one (a snowmobile type torque converter) on a Honda Odysee ATV. With what was the equivelent of an Elsinore 250 2 stroke engine it was a force to be recond with. It was one of the forrunners of the 4 wheeler ATVs of today but you sat in it like a dune buggy. Not on it like a motor cycle. And to close my post with something motor bicycle related, The adjustable version of the variable v-belt torque converter you mentioned could be built Lou "WAS" built back in the 1940s-50s. It was on the Simplex motorbike. The only bicycle company that was ever in the south in the USA. They were in Luisiana. My Dad had one clear up in Ohio in the late 40s early 50s and still talks about that doggone thing to this day ! It worked well BTW he says. I would like to talk to you about that idea one day Lou.

Well, the torque converter would have to be symetrical.

 

[4950cycle]

If I'm not mistaken then, That would be the type that does'nt have as much ratio range as the A symetrical type. That may or may not be a handycap useing only half of it. But hey, I only have 2 speeds and get along well with mine. And that might be a benefit going symetrical type. At least the belt would'nt have to be special order. I think a symetrical torque converter will take any length Type B V-belt if you are only useing the drive pulley from it. Hey ! that actually sounds like it will work Lou ! LOL

 

[4950cycle]

Judging by your #56 post Lou, I am not sure if you know what I mean by symetrical and A-symetrical torque converters ? I am talking about the two different types of belt styles they have now. One is angled on each side of the belt (old school) while the A-symetrical types belt has one 90 degree side and one angled side allowing for a broader range in ratios it can provide according to the data I have read on them. But then again maybe you did know what I was talking about ? John

 

[4950cycle]

RC, I see you know 4 stroke is the way to go. And that is comeing from a long time 2 stroke fan. The reliability is worth the extra weight of a 4 stroke. You can get a lot of power out of a little two stroke but I want to ride not test and tune a motor everytime I want to take off. The 4 strokes will start and run right almost everytime you pull the cord !