bearing cup replacement?

And what style hub does he have? Front, rear, bendix, 3 speed, drum, Shimano, coaster, Campy, BMX, SRAM, etc. - we don't know. OP states he's going to get a picture.

As I stated earlier, every hub is different - hub cups aren't universal. On some hubs, the cups aren't removable.

I looked on Ebay, there ain't too many hubs for $3 to $5. OP is in the UK and shipping and customs would be prohibitive to ship from the US to the UK. I looked on UK Ebay and are very few inexpensive hubs.

Sure it is different than headset races. Hub cups come in different sizes where as headsets come in basically 2 sizes.

If he had a used bicycle parts supplier nearby or scrounge a flea market/swap meet, he might find a hub that matches his at a reasonable price.

I am not trying to prove anything other than trying to get the facts right and keep it in context relating to the OP. As stated by the OP, he doesn't have much money.

Chris
AKA: BigBlue
Well he got both out, so they're removable,...yes?Size of the cups can be measured, the process IS EXACTLY the same as pulling headset races!
He knows what size hub, so he'll have a good guess on the replacement size.He has a bad hub if he doesn't replace the cups, so in trying he;s not wasting any money, and possibly saving his wheel, hub and all.
Sub, you have the "bike-shop" mentality, of course they wouldn't suggest DIY options, as it wouldn't make the shop any money.The hub was bad, no harm in trying, maybe this can save a bunch of us from having to deal with "bike-shop" mentality by learning it all ourselves.
 
zip you asked/ we answered then you did as you see fit. we were just answering the question.
....
The body of your answers consisted of negatives "you can't, don't try it, you can't buy them, it can't be done, pigs flying, self appointed engineers" it's worse than no answer.
They can be bought (or pulled from donor hub), they can be pulled, they can be pressed in (bike forum link have visual proof), almost everything you said was proven wrong.Next time you help, maybe actually help.
 
hi sublunacy your posts don't hurt my feelings but they are quite pointless i asked for help/advice on what i should do to repair this wheel if your just gonna keep telling me to buy a new hub then please stop posting in this thread thank you!
 
sometimes i wonder why such a magnificent mechanic would be fiddling around with lowly push bike engines...

then again, im not god, so who knows what goes through small minds?

ima lookin at that old bearing hole and it looks like a standard bearing would squeeze in. maybe, maybe not.

but seriously zippin? your ruler is in the same class as the previous poster... dont take any notice of that tool!

i thought i was the headmess? :giggle: my god! throw it away! immeadiately! wtf? novelty? 1 and 5/6" is not a measurement!

ideally, you may want to replace the axle with a high tensile fine thread bolt, with a long shank.. threads dont ride on bearings too well... think moto axle. maybe the front of a z50 or summink? use packers/washers so that everything, dropouts and bearings, all ride on some solid shaft.

full seal will add too much friction, just use shielded. wack shield off on inside faces if wanted. if theres a decent size available.
 
dont let me stop you guys. im sure you can find lots of ammunition/ i bet you two guys want to string me up for my twisted common sense and ill reputed posts filled w endless information. rally the guards and warn the military.
So helpful, a real altruist.I'm sure you told people to buy a new bike if it wasn't something your smugness didn't approve of.Now let the people who are actually trying something, try.Stop interrupting with, "stop trying".You are a "dixie cup" replacement guy, good on ya.I come from the mentality if it can be fixed, give it a shot, you've nothing to lose.
If you're going to help, try to be positive, smug and negative produces nothing.
 
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dont let him bug ya gg!

worked with plenty of guys like that. can talk fully sik intercooler with 14psi boost but have trouble understanding how the hydralic lifters on a subaru actually work and are fired within a week when theyve stuffed a bore for the third time trying to insert new rings...


best one is when they rant on about their 9 inch dif and 3000rpm stall converter with clutch,(that they installed themselves) but cant tell a 10mm nut from a 3/8! think whitworth is a type of english car, perhaps.

a perfect example of why i service my own vehicles :) and why the mechanic with a lump of :poop: on wheels is invariably the best guy to go see... be suspicious when they drive something that cost more than two cases of beer and an oil change... :giggle:
 
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speileng und syntax! :giggle:


look ok. coupla dollars, cheap experiment :)

the trickiest part, if you aint got any gear, is making the spacer. the ends have to be SQUARE. dont use that aldi thing to check!

square, and the correct length within 0.1mm, or you'll shred the bearings. too long they wont seat correctly, and be loose, too short and just tightening the nuts can overload them.

(thats one problem with plain bearings, is they are pure radial with minimal thrust capabilities, unlike the standard cup and cone, roller taper etc)

freakin easy on a lathe with a tool post grinder, just face it off a smidge each time...otherwise... its just annoying. not hard. annoying.

or use copper tube and only tighten til the wheel is just starting to "pinch".
 
worth a try anyway! will order the bearings and try. if it saves me €30 buying a new wheel it'll be worth it! if it fails i only lost €7!
 
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