One of my favorite YD100 builds I have seen was a gentleman that used 2 jugs to build a single cylinder. He took the good one and cut the top off the head to make it a 2 pc. He cut it in such a way that his squish height would be much tighter and easier to correct.
He then took the second one, cut the head off it to make a good head for the first jug he decapitated, and cut 4mm off of the base to make a spacer. He then milled that spacer down to get his base port timing numbers exactly where he wanted them to be before he did his porting. He ended up with a 3.2mm spacer at the base with the spacer that he epoxied to the first jug. It ended up being a very powerful Frankenstein YD100, and the type of YD100 that most people would actually want to buy lol.
Honestly, if a company took the time to cast these cylinders with decent port timing figures and squish gaps, I would pay the extra money for them. That is actually why I am likely going to give the new Zeda 100 Max a go if/when my Phantom eats it. Basically a YD100, but based on a G4/G5 design.
He then took the second one, cut the head off it to make a good head for the first jug he decapitated, and cut 4mm off of the base to make a spacer. He then milled that spacer down to get his base port timing numbers exactly where he wanted them to be before he did his porting. He ended up with a 3.2mm spacer at the base with the spacer that he epoxied to the first jug. It ended up being a very powerful Frankenstein YD100, and the type of YD100 that most people would actually want to buy lol.
Honestly, if a company took the time to cast these cylinders with decent port timing figures and squish gaps, I would pay the extra money for them. That is actually why I am likely going to give the new Zeda 100 Max a go if/when my Phantom eats it. Basically a YD100, but based on a G4/G5 design.
