Bob Mac
Member
exhaust temp
I purchased one of those infrared temp. sensors from harbor freight and decided to try it on my exhaust. If this thing is right, the pipe closest to the head get up over 1000degrees. I can't tell how high it actually is because the sensor only goes up to 1000 degrees. The pipe quickly cool down the further you get from the exhaust port. I tried to solder my fittings. It lasted about 10 seconds and blew the pipe off. You would need a material that melts well over 1000 degrees for it to work.
I purchased one of those infrared temp. sensors from harbor freight and decided to try it on my exhaust. If this thing is right, the pipe closest to the head get up over 1000degrees. I can't tell how high it actually is because the sensor only goes up to 1000 degrees. The pipe quickly cool down the further you get from the exhaust port. I tried to solder my fittings. It lasted about 10 seconds and blew the pipe off. You would need a material that melts well over 1000 degrees for it to work.
Common solder melts at up to abt 800f.
Silver solder and brazing are the next step up.
Generally 1100f to 1300f melt temp.
Just abt all silver solder mfgs have a few different grades, with associated temps and strengths.
U might want to have a look at their presentations.
Might be easier to just swing by a welding shop and ask, "Hey, would u stick this for me?"
It never hurts much to ask. ;-)
rc
Silver solder and brazing are the next step up.
Generally 1100f to 1300f melt temp.
Just abt all silver solder mfgs have a few different grades, with associated temps and strengths.
U might want to have a look at their presentations.
Might be easier to just swing by a welding shop and ask, "Hey, would u stick this for me?"
It never hurts much to ask. ;-)
rc
motorbikemike45
Member
If I recall correctly, gasoline burns at about 1,200 degrees F. The pipes exiting an air cooled engine should be under that temp, but it is possible to reach near there in the exhaust of a high reving engine.
I, having once been a plumber, built an exhaust system for a Honda out of thinwall copper pipe and brass couplings brazed together. It worked fine except the copper and brass ring like a bell with each exhaust pulse. A LOUD AND ANOYING SOUND.
I, having once been a plumber, built an exhaust system for a Honda out of thinwall copper pipe and brass couplings brazed together. It worked fine except the copper and brass ring like a bell with each exhaust pulse. A LOUD AND ANOYING SOUND.
5
5-7HEAVEN
Guest
My repairs have worked with varying degrees. The large connection at the head pipe is deterioriating. The nylon strap and wrap directly under the strap has broken away. I guess that was the hottest part of the fix. It's leaking slightly but sealing better than without the wrap.
The OEM muffler fit is slightly leaking, but not spraying oil mist onto the bike.
The endbleed wrap is perfect with no signs of falling apart. The nylon straps are still intact, since there's not as much heat at this end.
There is no oil spray to wipe up after every ride.
I MIGHT replace the main connection and the OEM muffler connection with pieces of silicon exhaust tubing, if I can find the right size.
The OEM muffler fit is slightly leaking, but not spraying oil mist onto the bike.
The endbleed wrap is perfect with no signs of falling apart. The nylon straps are still intact, since there's not as much heat at this end.
There is no oil spray to wipe up after every ride.
I MIGHT replace the main connection and the OEM muffler connection with pieces of silicon exhaust tubing, if I can find the right size.
A good place to take a leak
These are 'sealants' and will not produce a mechanical bond for strength.
http://www.deaconindustries.com/index.htm
These people sell Hi-temp sealants good for 200f - 1800f
I had been thinking of automotive type RTV red such as produced by Pacer Technology 80726 Hi-Temp red sealant which is $2 online for a 3oz tube, and is avaialble in most auto parts stores.
I really enjoy learning about all the different things behind construction of a project. The Deacon site has lots of info in their presentation.
I'm still looking for the best information on MB clutches.
Seems to me a centrifugal or CVT drive will not lend engine braking when decelerating. I don't want to give that up!
Also looking for info on proper Chrome moly tube for these projects.
Best
rc
These are 'sealants' and will not produce a mechanical bond for strength.
http://www.deaconindustries.com/index.htm
These people sell Hi-temp sealants good for 200f - 1800f
I had been thinking of automotive type RTV red such as produced by Pacer Technology 80726 Hi-Temp red sealant which is $2 online for a 3oz tube, and is avaialble in most auto parts stores.
I really enjoy learning about all the different things behind construction of a project. The Deacon site has lots of info in their presentation.
I'm still looking for the best information on MB clutches.
Seems to me a centrifugal or CVT drive will not lend engine braking when decelerating. I don't want to give that up!
Also looking for info on proper Chrome moly tube for these projects.
Best
rc
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