Engine Trouble New motor seized
- Thread starter Captain Rainmaker
- Start date
Commonly used would be a Bearing Separator But that ain't gonna fit in and around onto that recessed Bearing
The jaws are too fat on a reg 2 or 3 jaw bearing puller won't be able to get under the bearing.
A Med or Long Jaw Knife Edged 2 or 3 jaw bearing puller is what ya need. Looks like you need a little reach to grab that bearing.
I don't expect you to buy one just to pull one bearing. Maybe your local Auto Zone or O Reilly auto parts store has one they can lend you. Just walk in and show them what ya got. You'll be able to borrow the tool right at the store and pull the bearing.
Pictures are examples of knife edged Jaw bearing pullers - Last pic is of a bearing separator
You also might be able to get a couple knife edged L pry tools under the bearing and pry it, work it up enough to get a reg 3 jaw puller on it. You would have to make your own L knife edge tools
The jaws are too fat on a reg 2 or 3 jaw bearing puller won't be able to get under the bearing.
A Med or Long Jaw Knife Edged 2 or 3 jaw bearing puller is what ya need. Looks like you need a little reach to grab that bearing.
I don't expect you to buy one just to pull one bearing. Maybe your local Auto Zone or O Reilly auto parts store has one they can lend you. Just walk in and show them what ya got. You'll be able to borrow the tool right at the store and pull the bearing.
Pictures are examples of knife edged Jaw bearing pullers - Last pic is of a bearing separator
You also might be able to get a couple knife edged L pry tools under the bearing and pry it, work it up enough to get a reg 3 jaw puller on it. You would have to make your own L knife edge tools
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Chainlube
Well-Known Member
You could always buy a cheap 2 jaw puller, https://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-two-jaw-puller-set-40966.html?_br_psugg_q=puller At your local FLAPS an grind down the ends of the jaws to make 2 levers that will fit under the bearing. If you make the ends sharp enough, you can use a big C-clamp to wedge the ends under the bearing, which would probably be enough to make the bearing come off.
Captain Rainmaker
Active Member
WELL THERE'S YER PROBLEM
Chainlube
Well-Known Member
You not going to have to worry about that stud coming out. Do you have a Dremel? Probably the best thing to grind that down with.
Captain Rainmaker
Active Member
Well, she's all back together, and still spinning, but, uh...we're going to call this one the practice engine. I was able to flatten out that spot with a little rat tail file, but it left a tiny hole going into the hole for the head stud. Not only that, but the magnet wasn't easily slipping onto the shaft, so like an absolute knuckle-dragger, I "installed" it with a deadblow hammer and a socket, and when the nut wouldn't start, I just cross-threaded it on. On top of that, after I did that, I saw the woodruff key had popped out of the shaft and landed on my workbench, but that's probably okay since I needed a deadblow hammer to get it on in the first place. So this motor's probably never coming apart ever again. Most likely, I'll spring for a built tuner engine at some point in the near future.
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