All I want to do is get some help up hills

Oban, get the Honda 35cc 4-stroke engine. It compares well with the Subaru.

If I lived in Scotland and the tax was too overwhelming, I'd fabricate my own kit. If you're not handy, find someone else to tackle the job. Aside from labor, you could build a cheap drive kit for less than $50.00 US for friction and a few dollars more for chain drive.

A great local craftsman could duplicate a name-brand friction kit for WAYYY less.(y)

And I'd build the friction drive first, then a chain drive.

BTW, log onto www.motorbicycling.com

ask for "deacon" and "comfortableshoes". They are great at fabricating DIY engine friction drives.
 
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Not Scotland, but I've got hills and rain

How aboot a 25cc Subaru Robin set up as a friction drive with as large a knurled style roller as you can find that will alow you to roll you up those hills at whatever speed you feel most comfortable with. Keep it all as light as possible. You won't get any top end however so across the flats and down the hills you will be carrying the extra weight of the system but if you are willing and want to pedal anyway the extra weight will not be too bad across the level and certainly no harm on the downhills.

hi all don't mean to jack the thread, but I'm more interested in low end torque than high end speed too. I used to hammer a road bike through some serious terrain years ago and I have no interest in high speed descents or anything else. 20 mph top end is more than enough. 15 mph is ok. But I would like something that will pull over 200 lbs of man and bike up a very steep grade.
 
Rob if your into simplicity and a reliable cheap kit price wise here's a solution. Buy a HS 142f 49cc from gasbike for $129, get a FD kit from Staton.com w/1-1/8th roller and you'll have a 21 mph kit that has torque up the ying yang. That's what I have and after getting used to the slower speed I'm very satisfied with the kit. Don't even need to pedal assist up hills I used to with this setup. Just twist the throttle and be happy. Another plus is the kit is virtually indestructible and it's very reliable. I weigh in at 220.
 
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Scottish update

Hi Rob, After posting the above I bought a Staton friction drive with a 7/8" roller but it was no good for what i needed.
I'm not sure what hills everybody else has but it didn't work on these Scottish ones! It just wasn't low enough geared.
After that I bought a Staton Crank drive kit and this is what I still use.
However it hasn't been an easy experience and in the early days I had problems with spoke breakage and pinch punctures.
I have ended up using the strongest wheel I could find with a solid (not quickrelease) rear axle and Swalbe Marathon plus tyres.
This has worked up until recently but now the front freewheel has self destructed.
I'm going to try a front crank assembly from SickBikeParts mated to the Staton Gearbox.
When it runs it's fantastic and will get me slowly up an incline so steep that the problem is keeping the front wheel on the ground. I feel that the transmission and wheels of a normal bike are not meant to take the power from a 35cc Honda engine (which is probably 4 times the output of a sprint cyclist)
Hope that helps...
 
Oban, do me a favor, next time you're out on those hills get a few perspective shots, I'd love to see pics.
 
Oban l think I am going with a rack drive.. It is a little pricey, but I can afford it.. Hope to visit Scottland one day. It is on my bucket list. Enjoy your ride.

Rob
 
While Oban notes a concern about the adequacy of batteries, I think we're jumping too quick to a gasoline solution to his problems.

As I understood it, he wants to do most of the pedaling, and only needs some assistance with the hills.

Correct me if wrong, but I think an electric solution may better fit his needs, in being less heavy and awkward when solely under pedal power.

Brenton

Well it is pretty tough to suggest any motorizing option without seeing the bike, but electric sounds perfect, especially if it's a V frame road bike gears.
SickBikeParts has a nice 36V electric shifting kit for ~$400US, and you get a pretty decent 36V 'water bottle' LI battery with mount and charger for ~$300US.

This an electric I did on a beach cruiser with an S downtube so I had to mount the 'bottle battery' on a rack in the back, but on a V frame it bolts right to the downtube bungs for a water bottle, hence their name ;-}

The motor can be mounted above or below the pedals cranks.
I put it above on this one because it was easier...

2_ElectricRoverR-1280.jpg


But if you have no center cavity room because you shove a 1KW 48V battery pack in there, it mounts below just as well.

2_SpecializedEpicDoneR-1280.jpg


Your pedal cranks and sprockets get replaced with a special sprocket pair mounted to a freewheel bearing that your pedal cranks attach to.
The motor also has a freewheel sprocket, as does your back wheel.

In short this isolates your pedals from the sprockets like a ratchet wrench.

If you pedal forward it turns the sprockets and the motor sprocket freewheels so no drag.
When you give the electric some throttle it spins the chain but the pedals don't move.
Regardless, be it your legs or the electric, or both at the same time, you get all the gears on your back wheel for both.

In short, ride around as usual with no motor help and no drag from a helper, and just give the electric enough throttle when you want to make your legs bionic.
Tough mindlessly easy and clean system for your needs to not consider as I sure like them.
 
He lives in Scotland, wet wet wet, I just wouldn't trust E-bike stuff in a place that has that thick of air.I also have never liked the idea of batteries between the legs.
 
He lives in Scotland, wet wet wet, I just wouldn't trust E-bike stuff in a place that has that thick of air.I also have never liked the idea of batteries between the legs.

Well that's just silly.
You are far more likely to get your family jewels hurt by an exploding gas engine or that cell phone in your pocket than an electric bike.
 
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