bamabikeguy
Active Member
Had the camera out in the shop, thought I'd take some pix of special little things I use out there to make my builds a bit easier.
#1- When snapping on the spoke-rings (12-6-3-9 o'clock), there is ALWAYS one spoke on my 12 gauge wheels that is just a tad out of line, and I make sure that "odd" spoke is either 12 or 6 o'clock. I don't zip tie the spokes until after it is all snapped on, superglue in the notches is the final touch.
The 3 outside wooden wedges keep everything steady/true while I continue the snapping, and the round piece of plywood in the center, with a hole drilled to fit over the axle bolt, also keeps the ring from moving.
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#2-To make the crimp on 50% of the bikes I build, (so the spokering will pass through the rear stays), I use a pipe-flaring tool, with the point grounded flat. It is small enough to fit in the space.
The black aluminum tube gives me leverage to make 2-3 turns. That duct-tape looking monstrosity is really a piece of steel which fits on the outside of the crimping area, taped to keep it from scratching the paint.
Most bikes take maybe three twists to get me the clearance, moving it, tightening again, to make a total of about 2-3 inches of spokering clearance working area.
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#3- For frame-mounting, the all-thread with wingnuts is my axle substitute. When I put it in the axle slots, I have it "not quite" in the top of the notch, just in case I need to adjust the finished wheel, a millimeter or two, up or down.
The wooden ruler, when set against my pseudoaxle, tells me where the GEBE spokering will end, and the inner mark is where the crimped area would be.
My "357 millimeter" 1X2 is the jig that holds up the mount for drilling the 2 frame-mounting holes. If I want to hold it up there indefinitely, the two engine mount holes can be used, to screw it into that wooden jig, c-clamp the whole thing upright.
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#4- Now that I'm doing a lot of these Robin/Subaru's, using $6.50 Mobil 1 synthetic oil, the neatest way to do all the engine changes is with a 12 ml. syringe, (I buy them by the box for goats, but you can get one at a animal hospital for .20 cents). Pouring the oil into a wide mouth jar, it takes 4 syringe squirts to fill the oil reservoir.
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#5- Finally, like many others now, I have my SRDAVO designed metal chop saw, except my metal cutting blade cost $5, not $3.
However, living on a farm with over 40 gates and doors in my barn, my hinge cost me nothing......
--------------------------
Some of these are GEBE specific, but others could be used to frame-mount other types of kits, simply change the measurements to suit.
Have you got any home-made jigs or cheaply modified tools to help on your builds? Or have a pic of your SRDAVO chop-saw?
It's time to update all our tips and tricks for durable frame mounting !
#1- When snapping on the spoke-rings (12-6-3-9 o'clock), there is ALWAYS one spoke on my 12 gauge wheels that is just a tad out of line, and I make sure that "odd" spoke is either 12 or 6 o'clock. I don't zip tie the spokes until after it is all snapped on, superglue in the notches is the final touch.
The 3 outside wooden wedges keep everything steady/true while I continue the snapping, and the round piece of plywood in the center, with a hole drilled to fit over the axle bolt, also keeps the ring from moving.
--------------------------
#2-To make the crimp on 50% of the bikes I build, (so the spokering will pass through the rear stays), I use a pipe-flaring tool, with the point grounded flat. It is small enough to fit in the space.
The black aluminum tube gives me leverage to make 2-3 turns. That duct-tape looking monstrosity is really a piece of steel which fits on the outside of the crimping area, taped to keep it from scratching the paint.
Most bikes take maybe three twists to get me the clearance, moving it, tightening again, to make a total of about 2-3 inches of spokering clearance working area.
--------------------------
#3- For frame-mounting, the all-thread with wingnuts is my axle substitute. When I put it in the axle slots, I have it "not quite" in the top of the notch, just in case I need to adjust the finished wheel, a millimeter or two, up or down.
The wooden ruler, when set against my pseudoaxle, tells me where the GEBE spokering will end, and the inner mark is where the crimped area would be.
My "357 millimeter" 1X2 is the jig that holds up the mount for drilling the 2 frame-mounting holes. If I want to hold it up there indefinitely, the two engine mount holes can be used, to screw it into that wooden jig, c-clamp the whole thing upright.
--------------------------
#4- Now that I'm doing a lot of these Robin/Subaru's, using $6.50 Mobil 1 synthetic oil, the neatest way to do all the engine changes is with a 12 ml. syringe, (I buy them by the box for goats, but you can get one at a animal hospital for .20 cents). Pouring the oil into a wide mouth jar, it takes 4 syringe squirts to fill the oil reservoir.
--------------------------
#5- Finally, like many others now, I have my SRDAVO designed metal chop saw, except my metal cutting blade cost $5, not $3.
However, living on a farm with over 40 gates and doors in my barn, my hinge cost me nothing......
--------------------------
Some of these are GEBE specific, but others could be used to frame-mount other types of kits, simply change the measurements to suit.
Have you got any home-made jigs or cheaply modified tools to help on your builds? Or have a pic of your SRDAVO chop-saw?
It's time to update all our tips and tricks for durable frame mounting !
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