Better batteries didn't seem any different, maybe a tiny bit. With the engine set at full throttle and cruise speed (don't know what that is - think my former guesses were hi, likely is around 15 mph) the voltage is 27.2 or so, Voltage still swings down to 23.5 taking off. Here's the thing- dropping the throttle setting while cruising brings the volts down - but only to just over 24 and the engine is more relaxed. I could not get a strobe reading while riding, but at full throttle setting and 34 volts (high since the load is gone?) the rpm is 2943.
Stop the presses!
I went downstairs just now to do a voltage reading at idle when the engine began revving hi - over 4 grand. Voltage went to battery level. I think the regulator might be toast, I put a screwdriver in the test hole (looks like a small half - filled round hole in the back) grounding out something and the engine dropped down and voltage went up.
I am trying to think if I did anything wrong. I did run it without the batteries connected( via the disconnect switch to them) for a minute. There is definitely a load after starting, as the alt. self-energizes without being connected to the batteries and I was wondering where that load was going. Maybe it went to fry something. I guess I will get another regulator and re-wire it so the batteries will always be connected to the output post and switch the field with the same kill/field switch.
Can't give up just yet.
The bike rides awful over the winter- bumpy roads, cheap front fork doesn't absorb any little bumps, very stable though ( I think the little longer wheelbase is fine)
When turning, I need to remember the wide pedal crank is there and the turn circle is greater than I am used to but is fine. Not used to the tiller- like cruiser style handlebars, they might need to be modified. later on.
