Fuel Mixture gas to oil ratio

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With all of the environmental *** **** on this website who believe in global warming and that motorized bikes are some solution to a problem that doesn't exist (anybody check the temp outside lately or that ice levels are unchanged) it boggles my mind why folks are willing to spew more pollution with oil excessive oil ratios. 32:1 is super plenty for break in and 50:1 with Maxima 927 or pure castor will suffice after a couple of tanks under the belt.
 
Hodaka -------- 20:1

After all these years I finally read the recommended fuel/oil ratio on a Hodaka gas tank--- 20:1

yes -- very interesting ---------- 20:1
and I don't remember any of those Hodaka THINGS
ever blowing up

might not be the best for the air we breath
but
I will burn just a little to the rich side at most times

ride that THING
 
With all of the environmental *** **** on this website who believe in global warming and that motorized bikes are some solution to a problem that doesn't exist (anybody check the temp outside lately or that ice levels are unchanged) it boggles my mind why folks are willing to spew more pollution with oil excessive oil ratios. 32:1 is super plenty for break in and 50:1 with Maxima 927 or pure castor will suffice after a couple of tanks under the belt.

funny ithought bout that, wonderd why they thought these thing environmentally freindly. :unsure:
 
I'v been perplexed by this subject for ages. I've browsed numerous web sites for answers and this is what I've found. All manufacturers recomend their own oil, for nefarious reasons claiming that the materials used in the construction are suited to the ash content of their oil. Most of the experts say that the ash content is the most important thing when concidering the amplication the oil is going to be used for. Never be tempted to us outboard oil for other than outboard use. They also say that 20:1 is fine but 25:1 is best. For myself I use ****s Titan allpurpose because it has a high ash content to cover all uses. I've 2000KLMs on it now and it gets a good bit of reving from time to time. I've never had any problems yet. I've had the head off and there dosn't seem to be any wear on the cylinder walls or rings. Hope this can help.
 
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What is missing is agreement on the stages of an engine, from install to break in to full performance and compression.

On the Japanese 50:1 mixing, I consider 150-200 miles to be the "throttle varying" stage, 200-500 miles when wide open throttle can start happening, and 1,000 miles where switching to the synthetic oil can be considered.

From what I've read about the HT engines, those benchmarks are similar.

Who I talked to were the three local chainsaw repair places, that sell Stihl brand like my saw. They sell the three grades of oil, but recommend regular at the beginning, blended after 20-50 hours, and pure synthetic after 50 hours.
 
i ran close to 12:1 for break in then 14:1 then 16:1 until i hit 500kms then i ran 20:1 which is what i curently run at <3000km
 
Interesting mixes of opinions. The manual actually says 40:1. But I use full synthetic at 32:1 (equates to a 1/2 cup oil to gallon a gas). This is handy because I had a cap from a previous 2-cycle oil that had the measurement already in the cap. I have over 1000 miles on my engine, very little smoke, and absolutely no oil blow by.
 
dont like to run very rich... it spews oil on my rear tire. usually 25:1 is as high as I go, 5.2 oz per gallon. So far I have just used echo 2 stroke oil from home depot... still experimenting
 
dont like to run very rich... it spews oil on my rear tire. usually 25:1 is as high as I go, 5.2 oz per gallon. So far I have just used echo 2 stroke oil from home depot... still experimenting

yeah i still get oil spewing out a tiny bit but luckly it goes onto the chassis of my bike and not the tire, i run it rich cause i need it to last a long time and not break down or over heat, so far its working ok and i dont have any power loss, but yeah 25:1 sounds just fine, ive never run anything above 20:1 so i wouldnt know,
 
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