S
smapadatha
Guest
Frame Mounting a GEBE/Kit (One Approach)
(A leetle more detail than the post on my thread. I'm... pretty sure this is how I did it.)
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Step 1)
First I mounted the GEBE main bracket in its “normal” position, attached to the rear axle.
I measured the distance between the top of the tire and the “inside” of the bracket. On my bike this was 20 millimeters, but your measurement could vary.
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Step 2)
I took a scrap of 3/16” steel and made a simple bracket. The bracket attaches to the existing 5mm holes in the rear fork. These holes are where you would normally attach a bike rack or fenders.
Using guesstimation, I drew a reference line across my bracket. After I cut down the GEBE main bracket, this was where the new end of the GEBE main bracket was going to rest.
Exactly where you draw the reference line isn’t that important. I drew it where I thought there would be good support for the brackets after I drilled all the holes, and after I had it all attached to the bike. What’s important is that, after you draw this line - DON’T MOVE IT.
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Step 3)
I c-clamped the unmodified GEBE bracket to my bracket so that the end of the GEBE bracket touched my reference line.
Then I bolted my bracket to the bike. The GEBE bracket was now in a “raised” position.
After taking another measurement, I could see that when the GEBE bracket was attached to my bracket, it was 70 mm above the tire. That meant my bracket raised the GEBE bracket by 50mm.
I unclamped the two brackets and cut the last 50mm from the end of the GEBE bracket on both sides.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Step 4)
I c-clamped the cut down GEBE bracket to my bracket, and put the new end of the GEBE bracket against my reference line.
That’s why the reference line is so important. After you cut the GEBE bracket down, the new end of the GEBE bracket has to rest in exactly the same spot as it did before.
With the two brackets clamped together, I put everything into a vise and drilled a 3/8” hole through both brackets. I repeated this on the other side of the bracket.
I chose a 3/8” hole because both brackets are big enough to take a hole this size and still have a good amount of metal left. Also, 3/8” is very close to 9mm, which is a common axle thickness. I figured if a 9mm axle was strong enough for the normal GEBE bracket, a 3/8” carriage bolt should be strong enough for my modified version.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Step 5)
Next I put it all together:
1. My bracket attaches to the frame
2. The GEBE bracket attaches to my bracket.
Because the end of the GEBE bracket touches the same reference line before and after it is cut, the GEBE bracket ends up 20mm above the tire, just like before.
My modified bracket is less than 1/2 of a millimeter from its original position, so the GEBE belt fits perfectly.
Another good thing about this design is that, although my bracket has 2 bolts and therefore cannot pivot, the GEBE bracket is attached to my bracket with 1 bolt. That means that even though the GEBE is mounted to my frame, I can still pivot the motor back and forth a bit, and decide how close or far away I want it to be from the saddle.
(A leetle more detail than the post on my thread. I'm... pretty sure this is how I did it.)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Step 1)
First I mounted the GEBE main bracket in its “normal” position, attached to the rear axle.
I measured the distance between the top of the tire and the “inside” of the bracket. On my bike this was 20 millimeters, but your measurement could vary.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Step 2)
I took a scrap of 3/16” steel and made a simple bracket. The bracket attaches to the existing 5mm holes in the rear fork. These holes are where you would normally attach a bike rack or fenders.
Using guesstimation, I drew a reference line across my bracket. After I cut down the GEBE main bracket, this was where the new end of the GEBE main bracket was going to rest.
Exactly where you draw the reference line isn’t that important. I drew it where I thought there would be good support for the brackets after I drilled all the holes, and after I had it all attached to the bike. What’s important is that, after you draw this line - DON’T MOVE IT.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Step 3)
I c-clamped the unmodified GEBE bracket to my bracket so that the end of the GEBE bracket touched my reference line.
Then I bolted my bracket to the bike. The GEBE bracket was now in a “raised” position.
After taking another measurement, I could see that when the GEBE bracket was attached to my bracket, it was 70 mm above the tire. That meant my bracket raised the GEBE bracket by 50mm.
I unclamped the two brackets and cut the last 50mm from the end of the GEBE bracket on both sides.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Step 4)
I c-clamped the cut down GEBE bracket to my bracket, and put the new end of the GEBE bracket against my reference line.
That’s why the reference line is so important. After you cut the GEBE bracket down, the new end of the GEBE bracket has to rest in exactly the same spot as it did before.
With the two brackets clamped together, I put everything into a vise and drilled a 3/8” hole through both brackets. I repeated this on the other side of the bracket.
I chose a 3/8” hole because both brackets are big enough to take a hole this size and still have a good amount of metal left. Also, 3/8” is very close to 9mm, which is a common axle thickness. I figured if a 9mm axle was strong enough for the normal GEBE bracket, a 3/8” carriage bolt should be strong enough for my modified version.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Step 5)
Next I put it all together:
1. My bracket attaches to the frame
2. The GEBE bracket attaches to my bracket.
Because the end of the GEBE bracket touches the same reference line before and after it is cut, the GEBE bracket ends up 20mm above the tire, just like before.
My modified bracket is less than 1/2 of a millimeter from its original position, so the GEBE belt fits perfectly.
Another good thing about this design is that, although my bracket has 2 bolts and therefore cannot pivot, the GEBE bracket is attached to my bracket with 1 bolt. That means that even though the GEBE is mounted to my frame, I can still pivot the motor back and forth a bit, and decide how close or far away I want it to be from the saddle.
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