So anyone ever drive over metal bridges ok on a motorized bike using standard bike tires? I’ve been sticking to bike paths for the break-in period since I have to take it slow anyway but when I can start going faster like in the 30-40 mph speed range I would have to start taking a car bridge on my commute. My tires are standard 26x1.95 with the snake belly tread pattern. Would they do ok on a metal grate bridge crossing? I’m a bit worried about loosing control & crashing if I do try crossing a metal bridge.
Getting my first Zeda kit soon seeking advice
- Thread starter bikejock
- Start date
butre
Well-Known Member
it's rough, even with full size motorcycle tires, but you can do it. personally I avoid them like the plague. if I have to cross a drawbridge I'll walk the bike across, especially if it's been raining.
Yeah. I remember riding my motorcycle over the metal drawbridge a couple of times & it is somewhat rough. Also another issue here is it’s a pretty busy car bridge since it’s literally the only car bridge that crosses this estuary that devides my town & the metropolitan area so I cant simply walk a bike across unless its very late at night when there are hardly any cars.
Cant imagine how rough it would be on a motorized bike with 26x1.95 bicycle tires. Probably would be going through tires more often & risking flats & wheel damage to. Thank god there is a bike bridge right next to the car bridge & most people who are on it usually don't seem to mind me driving a motorized bike on it if I ride slowly past them or pedal past them at idle but I’ll never really be able to bring the bike to it’s full or near full speed most of the time taking the bike route.
Bike’s running great so far! No problems yet other than the rear wheel coming loose which was my fault for not tightening the axle bolts tight enough after some maintenance.
Upgraded the spark plug from the cheap kit spark plug to a Japanese made NGK spark plug. Starts up & idles allot better with the NGK spark plug. Also the engine itself is officially broken-in now. Will be investing in some performance mods soon.
Upgraded the spark plug from the cheap kit spark plug to a Japanese made NGK spark plug. Starts up & idles allot better with the NGK spark plug. Also the engine itself is officially broken-in now. Will be investing in some performance mods soon.
6blueoval9
Well-Known Member
Do you own a Dremel tool or something similar?
Never really felt like I needed one of those during this build.
6blueoval9
Well-Known Member
If you want to make more power then you should consider owning one...most bolt ons will do very little for power improvement considering cost.
Your next step should be releasing power your motor already has in it but ,you'll need that Dremel type tool to do it.
Your next step should be releasing power your motor already has in it but ,you'll need that Dremel type tool to do it.
How would I use a Dremel type tool to make power mods to my engine? I’m still kinda new to 2 strokes & modding them.
Most I am considering for mods is a high compression cylinder head, Dellorto carburetor & maybe even an expansion exaust to.
6blueoval9
Well-Known Member
The cylinders are cast leaving what is called casting flash on the surfaces....Inside the intake and exhaust ports this flash disrupts the airflow to an extent...By just simply removing the irregularities you can increase performance of the motor....More advanced porting can add a significant amount of power but requires a bit more know how before attempting.
6blueoval9
Well-Known Member
This is my stock exhaust port.. See the crap left on them and just how rough the port looks in general..that's casting flash.
This is the port cleaned up with a Dremel type tool using a sanding drum attachment and sanding roll that usually comes with a Dremel type kit.
This is the port polished up a bit and ready to rock n roll.
Nothing fancy or difficult was done...just a simple effective means of power and even efficiency improvement...You do the same for the intake ports as well except you don't want to polish the intake ports...leave the scratches made by the sanding roll as this helps promote improved atomization of fuel into the cylinder.
This is the port cleaned up with a Dremel type tool using a sanding drum attachment and sanding roll that usually comes with a Dremel type kit.
This is the port polished up a bit and ready to rock n roll.
Nothing fancy or difficult was done...just a simple effective means of power and even efficiency improvement...You do the same for the intake ports as well except you don't want to polish the intake ports...leave the scratches made by the sanding roll as this helps promote improved atomization of fuel into the cylinder.
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