"Good Vibrations" build

[Sockmonkey]

Things I still need to do:
Find some kind of brake I can mount to the rear wheel. As it is I have come close to wiping out a few times... Almost hit the Sentra once, and the worse part is it would have the opposite side from where the dear hit!

Install a "working" kill switch.

Mount the speedometer and the fenders etc.

I got 3, 2 mile runs this morning. I am trying different settings to see which is best for this area. 2nd and 3rd notch down on the needle seem awful rich, but am afraid to lean it out any more until it is broken in.

In my 25 years of messing with radio control I have ruined a couple of engines by running them too lean and hard before they were ready. And those were quality OS Japanese engines, not this low quality Chinese stuff.

I still want to get a larger sprocket. I don't need to go more than 20 mph, and besides, I feel a lot safer going 75 on my
Suzuki then I do going the top speed on the GV.

I've had so much fun with this build I am starting to price a honda motor and Tadpole trikes... I think that would be a great combination.

 

[bluegoatwoods]

How about the unusual chain tensioner mount? Is that working allright for you?

 

[Alaskavan]

Warning ! Warning! Danger Will Robinson! I'm not an expert, but putting the tensioner on the power side of the engine chain seems hazardous to me. I'd think that it could fold up that side of your frame. Not a pretty picture at speed. I would also worry that the tension wheel might not last long in that configuration. Just my thoughts on it. Not based on any experience with it.
It looks like you have a single speed hub. I'd suggest you move the tensioner to the pedal chain and go with a straight run on the engine chain.

 

[Sockmonkey]

Warning ! Warning! Danger Will Robinson! I'm not an expert, but putting the tensioner on the power side of the engine chain seems hazardous to me. I'd think that it could fold up that side of your frame. Not a pretty picture at speed. I would also worry that the tension wheel might not last long in that configuration. Just my thoughts on it. Not based on any experience with it.
It looks like you have a single speed hub. I'd suggest you move the tensioner to the pedal chain and go with a straight run on the engine chain.

That is exactly what my local bike guru did to his motoredbike!!! I guess it's true that great minds think alike.

That is the configuration I am going to go with, although... I noticed that if I pulled that run of the motor chain down it would clear the part of the mount I had to cut off.

As the hardest part of this build (to get right) was mounting the rear sprocket I wonder is there is a tensioner with a spring that would allow the sprocket to wobble a bit? Mine is only off-center by about 1/16" yet it causes a enough strain to be felt and heard.

I am thinking of going to a hub mounted sprocket like this...

from: revolutioncycles.com

 

[Alaskavan]

Trials bikes often use spring-loaded tensioners. They seem like a good idea to me. I use a hub mounted sprocket, but there is a little wobble in it. I haven't resolved my chain tensioner issue yet, (my frame is unusual, and I am limited to shopping online and in the junkyard). Good luck with your build.
Van

 

[Sockmonkey]

I just got back from another couple of runs around the block, lucky so far!

I did the "Van" conversion (forgive me, but I couldn't help myself) and ran the motor chain straight back with the tensioner on the bike chain. Only problem is that before I removed a link I couldn't move the rear wheel back far enough to tighten the motor chain... And after removing the link the rear axle is only half way into the mounting tangs! I'm hopping the chain will stretch , but might have to have the welder put on some extensions.

Picked up and installed a brake on the front so now I can stop. I also picked up a fuel filter and a new "kill" switch. I was going to put those on also but The garage got too cold for me to work in.

Funny thing about this carb, it doesn't have a smooth transition from slow to full. At idle the engine is running a little rich. As I throttle up to medium, the engine starts to bog down as if the mixture is way too rich. At 7/8 throttle it leans out and the engine runs great. This is with the needle set on the 3rd notch down from the top. Just something else to figure out.

 

[Alaskavan]

Someone sells "Half Links", but I don't know who. I would feel pretty bad about it if your bike failed because you were taking my advice. I got tired of trying to adjust my carb (it's just like an HT carb). I ordered a little 20mm Mikuni.

 

[Sockmonkey]

Alaskavan

Not to worry. I can see the superiority of running the chains this way so will just have to adapt to survive. I never did like the flimsy look to the rear mounting have already come up with a quick fix, I onlly wish I could weld!

The plan is to cut the old tangs off and replace them with longer and thicker ones. All I need is about a half inch longer tangs to feel safe, so it really isn't that big of a deal.

The hardest decision I have to make is if I am going to go with a larger sprocket. If I do that, I would have to add a short length of chain to make up for the extra circumference which might work with the current setup.

Heck, I haven't been so involved in a project (and had so much fun) for a long time.

 

[Sockmonkey]

Update

Ordered a 50T sprocket and a new chain.

My latest plan is to completely dissemble down to the frame and do a new paint job. Then reassemble, taking time to make sure everything is aligned. I was having a slight problem getting the Springer to line up with the front wheel.

Have the next two days off so hope to have it done by the time the new sprocket arrives.

 

[Sockmonkey]

I just had to come up with a logo for my (imaginary) Motored Bike company...



Get the hidden meaning?

No, he's not my dog, I just saw him at an outdoor music festival and just had to take his picture!