I think it's an inverted photograph, something like a mirror reflection of the true picture. So I dont think the drive is really on the right.
Hehehe, has to be a mirror image pic, funny ;-}
The most likely cause of your problem is not the clutch plate, it is usually dried grease in the bearing seam between the clutch pad back and shaft.
Just remove the lock screw and flower nut to remove the clutch plate.
Note there is spring under the plate, pull it out as well.
The object is to break the bearing seam free and a big long screw driver works dandy but PAY ATTENTION!
1. Only pry using 2 of the 3 floating guide pins and never pry against the moving center pin!
2. The outer portion of that plate hooks to the little engine gear, we do not want this outer ring to move so you need to either wedge something between the big and small gears at the bottom or pull the plug and put something like a socket extension in the hole to catch and stop the piston just before TDC.
3. The inner portion of that plate directly connects to the drive sprocket on the left side. This is the portion we want to move so take your drive chain off so the bike won't move.
It doesn't take much force to break it free, then put your spring back in, the plate on, screw the flower nut on some and hook up your left side drive train including the clutch cable.
NOTE: It is a good idea to clean out any gunk between the brake pads and off the clutch plate friction side.
Pull the clutch in to lock position and then tighten the flower nut to where the bike won't roll then back it off about 1/2 a turn.
You want to balance where the clutch runs free or engages, this is easy with the flower nut provided your cable is right.
Just keep adjusting to where the engine is engaged up to just before the clutch lever in lock position by rolling the bike.
When you have it right tweak the flower nut so it is over a set screw hole, it doesn't matter which one, then put a drop of blue LokTight on the lock screw and put it in.