Carby Level carb question

Discussion in '2-Stroke Engines' started by Neufcruz, Feb 2, 2016.

  1. Neufcruz

    Neufcruz Member

    I believe I read that the carb float bowl should be level. How important us this? I've seen many on here that look as unlevel as this. When the engine sits flush on the frame mount and with filter on. It's like this. I do have a RSE reed valve as well. Any suggestions on what to do?
    Thanks
    Mike
    image.jpg
     

  2. butre

    butre Well-Known Member

    it helps, but it's not as important as people say. you should be safe leaving it as is.
     
  3. Neufcruz

    Neufcruz Member

    Thanks and good to know. I'll try before final mount to improve some but at least I don't have
    To start throwing away parts etc... Lol
    what's the disadvantage?
    Thanks
    Mike
     
  4. sbest

    sbest Active Member

    Butre is a good guy and all, and he is not wrong, but in my experience, I'd level it or you will forever be chasing your tail.
    About 5 years ago I stuck a bad arse KTM 250 motocross motor in to a little itsy-bitsy Yamaha Blaster.
    This was the BADDEST KTM 250 made in the era, the feared 2003SX that killed Jeremy McGrath's motocross career.
    It came with a widow-makin' 10hp light-switch jump in power at 6000rpm. Just what a Blaster needs, too much!
    I digress...

    So it was a tight fit and I angled it a bit to fit, including the carb.
    [​IMG]
    Not such a bad angle, besides, the acceleration will make like nearly level right?
    The theory is you just adjust the float level and jet it for this position. WELL!
    You do not have enough time in life to get the bugs out of a crooked carb. LEVEL IT.
    I'm not a dumb guy, and you don't need all the woe it took for me to get to this life lesson.
    [​IMG]
    Works MUCH better like this.

    Works so smooth now, I can relax on outings...

    [​IMG]
    I think I've soiled my pants...
    Steve
     
  5. Neufcruz

    Neufcruz Member

    image.jpg I'll have to figure this one out. If I chopped the engine mount off, I could go directly on frame and adjust up or down to get level. Sort of beats the 2nd reason I bough the frame" to have a nice clean look. I'm going for looks as well as performance hence the last pipe thread I posted. :)
    Nothing's ever simple!
    Thanks Steve
     
  6. sbest

    sbest Active Member

    I see the problem with the carb. Not much room to angle it.
    What about using a 1/4" aluminum plate to move the front motor mount up and forward?
    Use the blocks on the rear mount to get the carb away from the seat stem tube and it should level?
    Otherwise, it is going to be some sort of intake adapter.
    I gotta say I liked the tipped forward look.
    It is a very nice looking frame.

    Steve
     
  7. KCvale

    KCvale Motorized Bicycle Vendor

    Just change your intake pipe to make the carb level.
    It is a gravity based system, floats don't like un-level, neither does the gas intake pin that controls fuel.

    You can dink around with float bowl level all you want but at best you have enough fuel in the bowl at high RPMs and get sputtering, but most like likely you will get over fill and when off or at idle overflow just dumping raw fuel right into the crankcase.

    You engine mount to the frame is perfect and that is most important thing, just change input manifold until it's level.
     
  8. Purple Haze

    Purple Haze Active Member

    Those reed valve intakes were designed to work with a diaphram carb, such as the Walbro that Fabian is so big on. With a diaphram carb, the engine can be at any angle, chainsaws and weedwackers come to mind.
     
  9. Neufcruz

    Neufcruz Member

    So does this mean I'm fine with it at an angle?my carb is the Dullar.

    Mike
     
  10. Neufcruz

    Neufcruz Member

    Kc,
    This what I was thinking as well. Any suggestions on where to get a different intake for this angle? It would have to attach to the reed valve and then the carb! Correct?

    Mike
     
  11. Neufcruz

    Neufcruz Member

    Or go with 2 of these and paint black and get it perfect????
    Thoughts
    Thanks

    Mike
    image.jpg
     
  12. KCvale

    KCvale Motorized Bicycle Vendor

    An intake reed valve is designed to block back pressure through the carb, darn handy when using an expansion chamber exhaust as it is pushing fuel back in to the combustion chamber from the exhaust side, otherwise I find them about as useful as a boost bottle, meaning useless.

    Gasbike has few different intakes here.
    http://www.gasbike.net/scart/public...ke&x=0&y=0&scart_referrer=http://gasbike.net/

    Are you running an expansion chamber exhaust?
     
  13. Neufcruz

    Neufcruz Member

    Yes. I already bought the long expansion chamber pipe but not real fond of the look and how it sits on bike. I found another that I asked about on another thread. If equal in performance then I might just buy this and sell or use the other on my next build. That's if I ever Finnish this one. Lol it just looks better and matches my color scheme. Trying to go to looks as well as performance. The prob now is with the reed valve, I don't have space for one of those stepped intakes which I have. Plus with reed valve on, you can't use that. It's either or or am I missing/not doing this right? Seems like I would need a small steppeed/angled piece to mount to reed valve (like the carb does) and then mount carb to it. It's a tight fit if I use the pedestal mount. I can't be the only one with this issue! Would 2 of those universal mounts work. 1 on front and 1on back. Then I could level perfect. Could paint or anodize black to retain a nice clean look. Theirs a local pipe/plumbing warehouse that I just noticed today driving nod might figure out the exact angle and size for both ends and see if they can make me a piece. You would be surprised at how some places love making weird pieces for cool stuff. I once brought a half scale steel T-rex skeleton to my motorcycle shop to weld a broken piece. They freaked and thought it was the coolest thing they ever worked on. Practically fighting over who would do the welding. And free. "How often do ya get to fix a dinosaur" they said. Now this isn't a Dinosuar but people really think it's prett cool, and no ones seen it with an engine on it yet. Hoping my top hat is in tomorrow. That should motivate me to get this thing going finally.
    Thanks
    Mike
     
  14. Neufcruz

    Neufcruz Member

    Would 2 of these work. I hames see around and tried a few different things and still no luck. With the reed valve on, it's just too tight.
    Mike
     
  15. Neufcruz

    Neufcruz Member

    I have the stepped air intake gt5, and this is the correct angle but won't fit. Does the offset only move off to side or correct angle/level as well? Looks like it might have small angle change. Does it off set enough to clear seat post?
    Thanks all!
    Mike
     
  16. Neufcruz

    Neufcruz Member

    I finally got her level. Not crazy about how high the motor sits. Gonna mess around some more and see if I can get lower. This is with both universal mounts and the rear mount that comes with engine as a spacer. Maybe get a smaller spacer or (cut down) and possibly readjust to lower a bit more.

    image.jpg .
     
  17. crassius

    crassius Well-Known Member

    almost afraid to ask why the mounts built into the frame weren't used
     
  18. Neufcruz

    Neufcruz Member

    Read 1st post. I'm not doing this to just do it. I bought the frame specifically for the tank in frame and clean motor mount. With the RSE reed valve, the carb will not sit level and with the stepped intake, it then does not fit.
     
  19. butre

    butre Well-Known Member

    because they're junk that'll crack in either your first 500 miles or first crash, whichever comes first.
     
  20. Neufcruz

    Neufcruz Member

    Well then, that makes it an easier decision!
    Everything happens for a reason!
    Thanks Butre. Now I'll see if I an at least reposition/modify to lower engine a bit.

    Mike
     
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