motor won't start

Discussion in '2-Stroke Engines' started by upgw, Feb 15, 2008.

  1. upgw

    upgw Guest

    i got a kit a few weeks ago and i've finished putting it together but it won't run. i pedal then i release the clutch and nothing happens. i've tried everything that i can do. i'm not a gearhead or a mechanic. i've also read over 200 threads here but i still can't get my motor to run. it's a dax 65cc. i must be doing something wrong. is there anyone who lives near me that can help me out and show me the ropes.

    i live in southern california in the riverside area in the inland empire. i'm willing to travel out to los angeles and orange county too. i'm always running around and running errands all over the place anyway.
     

  2. mickey

    mickey Guest

    The engine needs fire, fuel, and air. Do you have spark? (fire) When you take the plug out to check for spark is it wet? (fuel). Air kind of takes care of itself. :grin:

    EDIT: The clutch is engaging, yes? You hear/feel the motor turning?
    EDIT: Tell us what you have tried.
     
  3. Scottm

    Scottm Guest

    It's usually something simple. If you installed the kill switch, un plug it to eliminate the chance of accidental grounding. Chek you wire connections to see that they are correct and any exposed connections are not touching one another or any part of the bike frame or motor.
    Is the fuel valve open and is fuel flowing?

    Good luck, most of us have been there at one time or another. This is motoredbikes 101, getting aquainted with your new toy.
    Be sure to post the solution for future members.
     
  4. fetor56

    fetor56 Guest

    Like members said before start with the basics(spark/fuel/air) and move forewards going to more and more complex solutions...the main thing at the moment is to get it to WANT to start.
     
  5. Yeah, make sure it's not something stupid like a wire accidentally grounding itself to the muffler or something (that caused a few hours of head scratching on my behalf).
     
  6. Skyliner70cc

    Skyliner70cc Active Member

    I never install kill switch wiring on first start. Too many times it is the culprit. Recheck your wiring, ensure you have fuel in carb. Did you press the "tickle" button 20 times or so?

    try this:
    1. Check spark plug gap. If you didn't gap your plug or at least check it there's a chance the electrode is smashed against the center electrode from the shipping process. I often just screwed the plug into the engine without checking until I learned the hard way. A 25-32 thousands gap is ok. PUT ONE TABLE SPOON of oil into spark plug cylinder hole. With all of your start attempts, you want some lube in the engine.

    2. Check for spark. Remove spark plug wire from spark plug. Pedal bike as fast as you can and then engage clutch. At same time grap the plug cap with your hand. You should feel get a good jolt. Don't try this if you are elderly, have a pacemaker, atrial fibrillation or other known heart problems. If you are healthy, you'll have no problem. I do this all the time...its better than caffeine in the morning.

    3. Check for fuel: Disconnect fuel line from carb and turn fuel valve on. Fuel should be trickling from line when valve is turned on. If not, there is your problem which is probably rust clogging the screen filter or valve. You should always flush out/clean a new tank. I like the idea of gravel in the fuel tank shaken and then removed to clean rust.

    4. Check for fuel in carb. Some carbs have a drain screw on the float bowl. Turn fuel valve on with everything connected properly (fuel line) and ensure fuel is coming out of the fuel drain on the bowl. It can take quite a while to prime a new carb.

    5. Starter fluid: To rule out fuel over spark issues, a shot of ether into the carb is an easy way to make a differential diagnosis-assuming spark plug gap is correct. Have friend spray either into carb (1-2 second burst) and IMMEDIATELY try to start engine. If it fires up, then you have a fuel issue. If not, probably a spark issue unless you got jolted in Step 2 and know for sure.

    6. CHOKE: Often on a new engine, you can't just set the choke and forget it for the start process. For example, one of my temperamental engines requires full choke to start it but IMMEDIATELY requires somewhere between 1/4-1/2 choke depending on temperature for it to continue running. This requires almost constant fiddling while pedalling and driving with one hand. If you don't have the ability or balance to drive with one hand while leaning over to fiddle with the carb, then try repeated attempts with slight variations in choke setting.
     
    Last edited: Feb 16, 2008
  7. Zev0

    Zev0 Member

     
  8. upgw

    upgw Guest

    i put some oil with a little bit of gas in the spark plug hole and pressed the tickler 20 times. it started up. it freaked me out and i jumped off and sprained my wrist. **** that was funny. i wasn't expecting it to start. i got back on and ran it for about a mile. it sounds a little rattlely though. thanks for the help guys.
     
  9. Scottm

    Scottm Guest

    Hooray!! It's alive! Great job
     
  10. iron_monkey

    iron_monkey Guest

    The obvious hasnt been mentioned, so ill say it in case.

    For easy starting the throttle has to be wide open.

    My engine would be very difficult to start if the throttle is left on idle. Choke is irrelevent, my engine has never needed choke to start.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 19, 2008
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