New BMP Combo Drive and Jackshaft Kit

Here is a simple way to solve my problem, cheap!

http://www.bicycle-engines.com/images/images_big/hybriped-inuse.jpg
HybriPed sprocket adapter for road and mountian wheels to use LH motor cog!

I can use a shimano mtn bike wheel with the Grubee type cogs, and your kit. This platform is a "rag joint" type technically, but with a much larger area to distribute the forces, and many more bolts. I am glad I found this link again!
 
Front Freewheel Cranksets, adapters, and various chainwheel sizes, sold here, separately (e-bike store)
http://www.cyclone-usa.com/store.php?crn=203

SICK bike parts also has Front Freewheel cranksets for SQuare Taper Bottom Brackets. (SICK is awesome! ) http://www.sickbikeparts.com/Products/Cranks.html


I'm mostly interested because of these two ideas:

A person in a state with certain clauses in the motor bicycle laws is not required to use pedals, if the bike is under certain CC and is actually a bicycle frame and wheels. I am trying to remember what state now, will look in the forums, or someone can chime in. This would allow a RH drive side and use of common wheel parts, with a freecoasting hub.

A person who wants to pedal full time anyway can use it like this:


Yes, it would be true in this application. If the engine is small like 32cc, and the automatic clutch is still used, it shouldn't be a problem, because pedaling full time would work well on some applications, especially since you say it can be pedaled with the engine off, correct? 2 cycle engines used for this will have a fast throttle response, so letting off the gas lever would disengage the clutch nearly instantly. A dual kill switch setup with thumb buttons for each hand would be effective for a safety measure. Extra care would have to be taken to let off the gas when changing speeds.

Someone on this forum once modified a Shimano hub or a shimano freewheel to use a standard BMX freewheel in place of a lockring or smallest cog. This would eliminate the multi speed ability though, but would allow use of spacers to create a place for the motor chain to fall into if it ever derailed due to the motor quick release bracket loosening.

I would use this on a bike with BMX pegs so I could start the bike, then ride on the pegs like a sport bike. With a short crank like 160-175, you shouldn't have to worry about grounding out the pedals.

The front freewheel cranks sold for shift kits could also be employed. This would leave one with ONE motor speed gear, and various pedal speed gears (minus deleted gear for space to prevent chain rub). This would be IDEAL for me because I live in TX where the multi speed motor/shift kit is not legal, as far as I know. It would also be a perfectly fine setup for anyone. With pedal speeds, you can always crank your feet on the hills to power up, then coast for the downhill and flats.

Great info Happy, I get it now....I never even thought about the front freewheel option. You have some good ideas that should be able to work with this platform. Since the drive sprocket can be placed anywhere along the jackshaft you can easily line it up to run on the right side. I'm not sure if #41 chain would be okay for the bicycle cog. If you have to switch to a thinner chain you would have to replace the #41 drive sprocket with a thinner one. I've attached an underneath photo of the drive, you can see the shaft is fully keyed so the sprocket can be positioned anywhere.

Thanks
 

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Ok, thanks for the info. I will probably still just buy the friction drive kit, because I think it will work well for me and I like the simplicity (gas tires and oil). There are so many great, cheap tires out there that should do well, and with the ability to add a custom roller later (1.5" with "swiss cheese" holes for traction/dirt clearing) it ought to be good.
 
Ok, thanks for the info. I will probably still just buy the friction drive kit, because I think it will work well for me and I like the simplicity (gas tires and oil). There are so many great, cheap tires out there that should do well, and with the ability to add a custom roller later (1.5" with "swiss cheese" holes for traction/dirt clearing) it ought to be good.

Although I really like the way our new chain drive system rides, as well as other chain drive kits (and I've tested almost all of them out there), I still feel friction drive is as good as it gets....there's nothing smoother, nothing easier, nothing quieter, and nothing lighter. You'll get mixed opinions regarding tire wear and whether or not you can ride on wet roads, but it's still worth it...and like you said, tires are pretty cheap. The great thing about the new combo kit is that the chain drive option will always be there....you can always convert later on down the road if you choose to.
 
That is a really good selling point. I will pass that along to my colleagues.
I'll get the friction box first and maybe upgrade later.


They ask why I don't have one yet, and I tell them bc. I already bought a happytime bike last year, and can't buy it now, but I want to support the cycle commuters here, from 10 speed bicyclists to mopeds and even sidecar motorcycles, anything.

This kit is a good product and inspires creative thinking. Thanks.
 
BMP,
I've been looking at your new setup ( wished I had known about it sooner) and
it looks like you would be able to put a variable pulley on the front, along with an adjustable idler and be able to change from moderate hill climbing to speed a
in just a few minutes. Just wondering have you thought about doing something
like that in the future. By the way still enjoying my recent BMP purchase.
Aero
 
BMP,
I've been looking at your new setup ( wished I had known about it sooner) and
it looks like you would be able to put a variable pulley on the front, along with an adjustable idler and be able to change from moderate hill climbing to speed a
in just a few minutes. Just wondering have you thought about doing something
like that in the future. By the way still enjoying my recent BMP purchase.
Aero

Hey Aero,

The gear ratio is already at 2.86:1 using a 1.75" and 5.00" pulley. If you switch to a 2" front pulley that would make it 2.5:1. This would be suitable if you have more powerful engine or if you live in a flat area. We certainly plan on evolving the kit as time goes on.....your suggestion will defintitely be considered.

Thanks,
 
I like the variable pulley idea. I was thinking the same thing. A pulley that could change 25% would help someone fine tune their bike better than trying different wheel drive cogs (which are $15-50 each!) and probably could be sold as a slightly more expensive option by substituting the pulley and including the idler wheel.

I think most people will pedal to accelerate or take off from a stop, and travel at or near the top speed of the machine most of the time.
 
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