Norco Bike build & motor questions

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by SEGACDX, Nov 6, 2013.

  1. SEGACDX

    SEGACDX Member

    So I have built my first motorized bike and it does go dam fast even at this point but there are some problems I need to have addressed, your options and suggestions are more than welcome.

    So one of the biggest problems is starting this dam thing, once you get it going it is easy to start again.
    I think it may be the cold I like in Canada BC near Vancouver and it's winter now so I think this may be a factor in the hardness to start.

    Another thing I have noticed is oil on the head all over the place, it's not a lot but I think something may be wrong.

    I have the bolts on everything dam tight so I would think it would have a good seal.
    Maybe it would be a good Idea to get some kind so electrics on this bike. Thinking about solving the
    Ignition problem a battery with a switch may help get things working, then again I should really focus on lighting.

    Anyways I would like if you can to recommend some things to make my bike a lot safer for night and general travel.

    I will try to update this tread as much as possible.

    Thanks for reading!

    Here are the bike Pictures I took: http://imgur.com/a/osScO
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 15, 2015

  2. IbedaYank

    IbedaYank Member

    #1 put fuel filter on correctly you have it upside down in pictures... filter should have a arrow that shows what direction the gas flows

    #2 replace brakes with a good set of Vbrakes with Koolstop pads

    #3 do the roller clutch mod

    #4 if you only ride on pavement replace tires with a 60psi or better semislick
    clutch roller mod.jpg
     
    scott.d.lang and Racie35 like this.
  3. crassius

    crassius Well-Known Member

    a bit hard to tell from the pic, but it looks like your leak is from the head gasket - you have acorn nuts on the head studs which sometimes bottom out inside their caps before tightening the head down all the way - you can sometimes add a washer or two under them to give them more room to tighten, or many folks just knock the caps off them so they go all the way down

    you have not put the hanger on the muffler, so all that weigh is supported by just the two studs at the top - they will eventually break and may crack the whole cylinder - put the hanger on at the bottom of muffler & attach it to the bike frame solidly
     
  4. SEGACDX

    SEGACDX Member

    Number one helped a lot thank you for noticing it was the wrong way up I knew it had to be a fuel intake problem, now it start much more easily.

    I will try to replace the pads with Koolstop ones and brake housings with V-Breaks, the ones I have now are not every good and they make a lot of noise.

    That clutch mod would help a lot my dam hands hurt form riding my bike to breaking it in.

    I had semi-slick tires on there but they where very old and cracking all over so I used some of my old broken bikes for parts.

    One thing I would like to do it have some dam front suspension. I have an old front shock form the same bike I got the tires form,maybe it will fit.

    I'll take some pictures of that to if you want.

    Also can you tell me what size of fuel line to use for my tank/filter/carburetor system?
     
  5. SEGACDX

    SEGACDX Member

    I tightened up the spark plug more I saw small bits of oil leaking form it while running so I hope that stop the problem.

    I cannot but the hanger on the muffler since it will not reach the bike stem at all. So unless I can find another way I will not be able to put it on.
     
  6. wheelbender6

    wheelbender6 Well-Known Member

    Are you using the stock spark plug? They are not machined very precisely and will allow some premix to seep past. Replace your commy plug with an NGK, Denso, etc and see if it helps.
     
  7. SEGACDX

    SEGACDX Member

    Yes I am could you find some model numbers of those brands so I can look of in some local stores?
     
  8. professor

    professor Active Member

    I have only a little experience with LEDs but if I only had a small amount of electric power- that would be the direction I would go for better lighting.
     
  9. wheelbender6

    wheelbender6 Well-Known Member

    Here are some spark plug numbers for NGK:
    B5HS, B6HS, B7HS, B8HS. I think the B6 is what most members run.
    They all fit the same but have different heat ranges.
    Other spark plug makers should be able to cross reference those numbers.
     
  10. SEGACDX

    SEGACDX Member

    I've been looking around and no one sells them so I got a reference on the LD Z4C Plug and got a NGK B4L and it works dam well.

    Here is the spark plug list! http://www.sinosparkplugs.com/Replacementchart.htm

    My motor has been more broken-in but since I replaced the plug today I've noticed the engine runs much smoother at low and high RPM's.

    Much easier to start compared to the old plug, I still have to get some Lights and maybe some upgrades like a new Carburetor, bolts, centrifugal clutch, better throttle, better plug cap & wire, and a few other things over time.

    I must say I am very happy that it all worked out and now I have something easier to get around on.

    Although the weeks of tuning & tweaking was very time consuming I had a lot of fun and learned a lot too about small motors; that's one of the reasons I wanted to do this project.

    I hope to have some more updates on upgrades, if anyone is interested that is!
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 15, 2015
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