Off set key

[Diamond Back]

Diamond, it sounds like your jetting is a little rich at open throttle and very rich at medium throttle. Before I put a good carburetor on mine I fixed that by fattening the needle by melting solder onto it. That leans the mid range without affecting top end. You also need a leaner main jet. See my site for details.
If you want the powerband to be at lower revs then you need to lengthen the header. Try 2 or 3 inches.

First off thank you for your help,, I am going to order your CDI ,, i like your retard curve and adjustability,, nice product BUD..!!!

I ordered a SILVER FLYING HORSE (i think its the same as the SILVER SLANT but with CNC motor mount)) KIT from GASBIKE,,I was surprized that the engine came with a real clean looking cylinder (not to much cleaning to be done with dremel,, little ridge in square transfer ports)).. it has the ZAE 80 connect rod, the smaller piston with wristpin in center and .60 domed piston,, slant head, my cylinder has a thicker base then other cylinders I see,,, which is good cause it acts like running two base gaskets which raises exhaust port an transfers,,, I can still see about 2mm of the piston skirt thru intake port at TDC,,, **(should i grind the piston skirt on intake side and how much if i am starting with a 2mm overlap))**???? motor has wider wristpin bearing,,, the magneto is dated with the year 10, 4 holes not the old six and three wiries black ,,blue,,white,,.. is this a GT5 engine,, has good power ,,, but with 44 tooth sprocket I max out at 34.7mph confirmed with speedo, gps, and friends car,,,but my cheap $10 hour// tachometer says like 1400 rpms at idle 2500-3000 at 25 mph and a top 4200 rpms at flat out wide open flat road 34.7 mph....wont rev any higher... what is the difference between pistons and 38mm and 40mm stroke engines,,,which is better...and what is my top RPMs supposed to be with BANNANA PIPE, RSE head and all i have done is port match and bottom case match and gasket match and raised exhaust port up 1.5mm and widened the exhaust and intake ports 1.5mm on each side... thats it....please help answer all these questions,,, sorry its alot.... When I put the RSE head on I noticed a lot of compression increase but was noticing pinging or knocking noises sometimes at low rpm,,I also put a 66cc exact volume boost bottle i built on it at same time... I am a 25 year auto and aviation technician and machinist,,, like you i know my stuff and do good quality anal perfection work,, having also served in the military NAVY AVIATION for 13 years.. any way I got some new 93 octane gas and added octane boost and put another headgasket on,,, the pinging and knocking went away,, but way lose in power,,, even to where i think about putting stock head back on,,with the higher octane gas you think i can remove one of the headgaskets now,,,i know the RSE head is cheap crap,, and i dont want to ruin my reliable engine with to much compression...i know i have to lean carb out a size or two,, but what should i do in your opinion to get my low end power back and up more,,, and a little more rpms,,, am putting a 36 tooth sprocket on soon and i still want my hillclimbing power to stay the same or more,,, but a lower harder hitting powerband and a 1000 more top end revs,, banana expansion pipe not the greatest..i know... want to get like a KX 65 pipe,,, what is the best fitting dirt bike pipe to get,, CR,,YZ,,KX,,RM,,KTM,, and 50cc-60-65-or 80 size,,, also JAG i have a half slotted magneto key,,, should i try advance or retard...and which way is which ??? Jag, Not to kiss your ass but i always follow and read all your posts and threads and read your facebook all the way,,WOW !!! what a lot,,, but you know your s**t and I want to learn from the best to be the best,,, just want a nice fast all around reliable bike,,,, but i love tinkering with 2 strokes and bikes,,, been since i was 14, 24 years ago...lol please help answer all my questions,,, i know its a lot and time,,, but i will follow all your input and let you know,,,

 

[Frankfort MB's]

The pinging is detonation, you would fix that with the 93 gas.... The best fix would be too buy a colder spark plug like a B7HS or B8HS

 

[Deleted member 12676]

Diamond, I hate all those high compression heads. And I hate that pipe you have on it. Both are bad designs.
Just plane down the stock head till you have 135psi cranking pressure.
I know of no good pipe for these engines so if you want it done right you have to do it yourself and make my torque pipe.
Until you get my performance CDI you can use the offset key to retard the timing.
Don't worry about the exposed piston skirt at TDC because at TDC the flow has mostly stopped. The main concern is the intake port duration. Best is 120 degrees which usually requires grinding off some of the piston skirt.

 

[Diamond Back]

Diamond, I hate all those high compression heads. And I hate that pipe you have on it. Both are bad designs.
Just plane down the stock head till you have 135psi cranking pressure.
I know of no good pipe for these engines so if you want it done right you have to do it yourself and make my torque pipe.
Until you get my performance CDI you can use the offset key to retard the timing.
Don't worry about the exposed piston skirt at TDC because at TDC the flow has mostly stopped. The main concern is the intake port duration. Best is 120 degrees which usually requires grinding off some of the piston skirt.

how much should i take off.. how many milimeters from the bottom of skirt,,, should it be oval in shape or square.... and do you make and sell pipes

 

[Deleted member 12676]

I don't sell pipes. way too time consuming. I just make pipes for my own bikes.
Every engine is different. You have to follow my advice on my site as to how to figure out how much to take off after figuring out how much duration your engine has now.
keep the skirt bottom flat.

 

[Diamond Back]

I don't sell pipes. way too time consuming. I just make pipes for my own bikes.
Every engine is different. You have to follow my advice on my site as to how to figure out how much to take off after figuring out how much duration your engine has now.
keep the skirt bottom flat.

OK... I think I will just modify a dirt bike 65cc engine pro-circuit torque pipe to fit,, will try to see what brand will fit the best with out to much modification,, I like the CHROME finish too,, DAX sells a pipe for $100 bucks, and then I could just get it CHROMED or RED ANODIZED,,, I am trying to add some flavor and color to my bike ,, I like the Red Anodized look, breaks things up a little, the Diamond Back frame is a good one compared to some of that junk they sell at Walmart,,dont make strong framed bikes like they used too,, God help someone that puts a strong ripping engine in a cheap aluminum Walmart frame,, Im going to get a GT5 frame and those 5 star swirl chrome and red wheels from GASBIKE and then switch every thing over and get RED anodized PRO-TAPER dirt bike handle bars and go with the CHROME and RED ANODIZED THEME with a nice exhaust and DUAL shorty silencers.. WHAT ya THINK ?? I know you have seen and built a lot so it probably dont impress you much..LOL,, WHAT you think of my bike now so far,, going to add some more ANODIZED RED here and there,, its my first build man so be easy a nice on me,, plus I am a disabled VETERAN , just got out of Military a year ago after 13 years and 3 tours in IRAQ,,WAS injured and taken out by road side bomb IED,, sent shrapnel into my stomach and had to have my pancrease removed,,,, sucks bro,,, but I dont get any income right now while settleent goes on,, takes forever the VA.. so i am doing things on a tight budget,, but being a great mechanic and machinist (modern day blacksmith))) helps a lot... its the little detailed things that make the biggest difference,, LIKE PORT MATCHING AND CASE MATCHING AND CYLINDER CASTING IMPERFECTIONS AND LIGHT PORTING and POLISHING,, you dont see all that detail and hours of anal perfection work,,, but bet you gain more power that way then any other bolt on MOD..!!

Thats why some people on here have so much trouble,, they just slap the engine kit together on a cheap bike and let the problems begin...between the 5-6 different engines and setups and different vendors all trying to save a buck,,, you have NO CHOICE but to take everything apart and build it back up the right way,,, these things are a HOBBY and meant for mechanically inclined aptitude people with a logical thinking mind,,, if you dont poses mechanical skills I HIGHLY suggest you just take the same $500--$1000 bucks and invest in a RTR,, TAO TAO KYMCO 4-stroke SCOOTER..View attachment 72760 View attachment 72760

 

[Deleted member 12676]

glad to see you put front forks on it

 

[Diamond Back]

glad to see you put front forks on it

YEAH...you aint kidding,, BEST frame upgrade ever so far,, traded a Gel seat and New skinny road tire for the SHOCKS,,, I took them all apart and honed out the cylinders and made my own new bushings and dampers out some polyurethane sway bar bushings and drilled some extra oil passage holes and using some shock oil from RC CAR 1/5 scale shocks...WHAT A FREAKING DIFFERENCE !!! I am a light weight at 150lbs so these shocks are smooth, soft with a great rebound and a full 120mm travel... it was bone jarring and teeth chattering before with the solid forks,,, NOW its like a Cadillac in the front,, need it with all the torn up pot hole infested roads around here,,,, SEE WHAT I MEAN,, with some mechanical know how and the ability to fabricate,,, you can do anything for low cost and get some self earned pride out of it... Now to work on a rear shock setup,,, spring seat and low tire pressure not cutting it...LOL

 

[HeadSmess]

YEAH...you aint kidding,, BEST frame upgrade ever so far,, traded a Gel seat and New skinny road tire for the SHOCKS,,, I took them all apart and honed out the cylinders and made my own new bushings and dampers out some polyurethane sway bar bushings and drilled some extra oil passage holes and using some shock oil from RC CAR 1/5 scale shocks...WHAT A FREAKING DIFFERENCE !!! I am a light weight at 150lbs so these shocks are smooth, soft with a great rebound and a full 120mm travel... it was bone jarring and teeth chattering before with the solid forks,,, NOW its like a Cadillac in the front,, need it with all the torn up pot hole infested roads around here,,,, SEE WHAT I MEAN,, with some mechanical know how and the ability to fabricate,,, you can do anything for low cost and get some self earned pride out of it... Now to work on a rear shock setup,,, spring seat and low tire pressure not cutting it...LOL

arrrghhh! hit return or enter or something occasionally!

sorry, i just skim through anything that is a solid page of nonstop text...


this is more "reader friendly"

YEAH...you aint kidding,, BEST frame upgrade ever so far,, traded a Gel seat and New skinny road tire for the SHOCKS,,,

I took them all apart and honed out the cylinders and made my own new bushings and dampers out some polyurethane sway bar bushings and drilled some extra oil passage holes and using some shock oil from RC CAR 1/5 scale shocks...WHAT A FREAKING DIFFERENCE !!!

I am a light weight at 150lbs so these shocks are smooth, soft with a great rebound and a full 120mm travel... it was bone jarring and teeth chattering before with the solid forks,,,

NOW its like a Cadillac in the front,, need it with all the torn up pot hole infested roads around here,,,, SEE WHAT I MEAN,, with some mechanical know how and the ability to fabricate,,, you can do anything for low cost and get some self earned pride out of it...

Now to work on a rear shock setup,,, spring seat and low tire pressure not cutting it...LOL

little chunks at a time

 

[Diamond Back]

SORRY GUYS !!!!!!!!!!

I AM NEW AT FORUMS

AND NOT USED TO THE WAY WE POST ON HERE AND USES SPACES AND SHORTY PARAGRAPHS

I AM A FAST LEARNER....LOL


AND WILL START TYPING


DIFFERENT,,,!!!!


MY BAD,,, PLEASE FORGIVE,,,


AS IT

IS

IMPORTANT FOR YOU GUYS TO READ ALL


MY


STUFF......I TAKE YOUR INPUT SERIOUS,,

AND

HAVE LEARNED SO MUCH FROM YOU GUYS.....