Off set key

[Diamond Back]

Yah know, I made my ride out of a diamond back so I thought COOL! SAME BIKE, MILITARY, DIFFRRENT BRANCH, HOWEVER! FRANKFORT was being cool with you. If that kind of talk upsets you. And your this " BKACKSMITH EINSTEIN GURU" what do you need this forum for? That was rhetorical. Don't really care to here from you. Be safe & have fun.

OK...sorry,,, didnt mean to be rude.... was having a bad day,,,.. would like to talk to you more it thats ok... you seem pretty knowledgable on these bikes...again sorry man

 

[Deleted member 12676]

all expansion chambers have a powerband of about 2000 rpm. so first find out the top rpm while using the stock pipe and then play with the header length (you can use radiator hose for one test run before it starts to melt) till your expansion chamber has the end of its powerband at that same rpm.

Expect a dip in power at rpm just before the pipe powerband. The steeper the pipe baffle angle, the stronger the dip in power. Welding in a baffle extension (explained on my site) is a way to reduce that effect.

horsepower is a combination of engine torque and rpm so with these engines to get the most power it needs to be high reving, probably no more than 10,000 though because of the restrictive transfers. But then with that setup it is usually weaker at low rpm and so you have to pedal when starting from a stop. So choose between a street friendly ride or a high speed blaster. For the best of both worlds just make my torque pipe which is detailed on my site. My bike with a torque pipe went up to 45mph (9K rpm) and still had enough power to not have to pedal when starting off.

 

[Diamond Back]

all expansion chambers have a powerband of about 2000 rpm. so first find out the top rpm while using the stock pipe and then play with the header length (you can use radiator hose for one test run before it starts to melt) till your expansion chamber has the end of its powerband at that same rpm.

Expect a dip in power at rpm just before the pipe powerband. The steeper the pipe baffle angle, the stronger the dip in power. Welding in a baffle extension (explained on my site) is a way to reduce that effect.

horsepower is a combination of engine torque and rpm so with these engines to get the most power it needs to be high reving, probably no more than 10,000 though because of the restrictive transfers. But then with that setup it is usually weaker at low rpm and so you have to pedal when starting from a stop. So choose between a street friendly ride or a high speed blaster. For the best of both worlds just make my torque pipe which is detailed on my site. My bike with a torque pipe went up to 45mph (9K rpm) and still had enough power to not have to pedal when starting of PEDDLING..


JAGUAR**** Hey Bud good to hear back from you,,, Listen buddy,, I am going to need some of your time on here talking back and forth PLEASE..!! if thats OK and you can spare the time...

I have some different topics to discuss with you and have a lot of pictures to show you,, so bare with me and some of it is from a reply/draft I started the other day, so you might have answered the question already,, but need your help on the other stuff please and also need your help and input/opinion on this WALBRO WYK 192 conversion kit.. I went online and 6 different stores today trying to get everything needed and simplified,, but could not find all that is needed,,this is where I need your help !!!

Anyone else who is reading this please put your input in as well,,,if you would like

 

[Steve Best]

I get over 40 mph on the level with a stock carb, stock exhaust and 44t sprocket.
You don't need trick carbs to go fast, just a step by step approach to good tuning.
I have the same aftermarket head as you (check my pictures) and it limits top speed somewhat.
Gobs more torque in the mid-range, and detonation resistant, so I do like it.

The Walbro carb does need the crankcase pulses and works best most consistently on a reed valve engine but will work on a piston port engine with a port drilled anywhere into the crankcase, where the pulses are. As for the fuel line, you can cycle it back into the inlet line if you wish. Easier than putting another spigot on the tank.

I'd suggest to put the engine together stock and find a good test hill.
After break-in (4 tanks) baseline the engine's performance on that hill.
Then proceed to do mods, one at a time, to see what improves performance.
You may find you need very few aftermarket parts to reach 40 mph.

Steve