Slippin' a WC-1 Cam Into an NE Engine:

[RdKryton]

Hal
Milling the head .070 may sound like a lot but you must remember you are putting in a thicker head gasket so the net reduction will be around .050.

Jim

 

[Quenton Guenther]

Hi Hal & Oscar,

I will gladly work with you, and can credit the cost of the camshaft [not the shipping] towards milling your head, however I will only do the head work my way.

Depending on which version of the head you have will determine the amount of metal I remove [mill]. In order to gain the maximum from having the head milled it is also just as important that the combustion chamber "be the best it can be". Some versions require I remove more from the combustion chamber and the head must be milled a minimum of .065" to make up for larger combustion chamber and copper head gasket. I also need to shorten the head bolts in the process.

A few additional items to discuss with Oscar, you are for-sure running too rich, and after you re-work and mill the head the carburetor might be a closer match to the WC-1 camshaft. If a motor is too rich it gives up a lot of power. If you don't want to mess with trying to dial in the carburetor and want to use the other camshaft and mill the head instead I will work with you. It is important to consider that you might need to dial in the carburetor after the head is milled, and should be considered.

The closer you match [dial in]the parts on your Whizzer the better it will run, and somewhere the carburetor will need some attention to make it all work better.

Just let me know what is your best plan.

Have fun,

 

[Hal the Elder]

Hey Quenton:

I will definitely re-install the NE cam and return the WC-1 cam to you, paying for the shipping of the cam AND my head, of course.

I will trust to your experience in giving me the best milling job, with the MINIMUM amount shaved off while giving consideration to the new, thicker head gasket.

(I'm still concerned with minimizing the stress on my lower end bearings.)

It is apparent that my stock NE camshaft is of the "high-lift", long-duration type.

Please let me know how much to send you for the milling job after crediting my return of the WC-1 camshaft.

Whizzers Forever...
HAL the ELDER, with OSCAR

 

[Quenton Guenther]

Hi Hal & Oscar,

email me for details, I don't want to tie up the forum conducting business.

quincy163@yahoo.com

If your motor is late 2004 to mid 2007 , I wouldn't spend a lot of time worring about the lower end.

Have fun,

 

[RdKryton]

Hi again Hal
If I remember correctly you have the good bearing in your side plate. You will not have any bearing problems with the compression increase. You will have more kick in the pants power. Your Whizzer will idle smoother and you will really hear the difference in your exhaust note. You will love the sound. That's the first thing I noticed with mine.
What is your elevation? That will effect what high speed jet to use. I'm close to sea level and I use a #88 jet in my 22mm carb but I have a higher lift cam than you. Most people end up with a #84 give or take one size. The original one is probably a #95 and is way to rich. Running rich steals your power. We will get you running right. Quenton and others here have helped me have what can only be described as an impressive running engine. It must be to drag my large butt up and down these hills here where I live.

Don't give up on Oscar. He has way too much fun to offer you. We just have to squeeze it out of it's hiding places.

Jim

 

[Hal the Elder]

Hey Jim:

Yes, my 2005 NE5 has the needle-type crankshaft bearing in the side plate.

I bought Oscar at a dealership near sea level, but I live at 3000 ft. elevation in the dry Mojave High Desert of Southern California.

HAL

 

[Quenton Guenther]

Hi Hal & Oscar,

Have you ever changed the main jet in your carburetor? If not when you have the head milled you might want to dial in the carburetor. The jet I sell the most of is a #82, and the #85 is the second best selling jet. I have special jets [not purchased from Whizzer USA], and the numbers run #80, #82, #85, #88, #90, #92, and #95. Most motors came with a #95 but is always too rich. The later production motors had the size reduced to a #88 [still too large]. If a motor correctly runs a #88 jet it must be highly tuned [really fast & powerful].
Over jetting reduces the power greatly, but more importantly it can cause excessive wear on the piston, rings, and cylinder wall. The reason this occurs is because the excessive fuel washes the oil from the moving parts and can even cause very high operating tempatures.
Have fun,

 

[Hal the Elder]

Hey Quenton:

Thanks for the info!

I have never changed my Main Jet, and I have no idea what the number is. I always heard that running too LEAN overheats the engine!

HAL

 

[Quenton Guenther]

Hi Hal,

Too lean will over heat the motor, but too rich can do the same.

Lean motors will produce more power than too rich, but not for long.

Either extreme can cause damage to a motor.

Don't worry about too lean, because the average stock Whizzer motor is way, way, way, way, too rich. Most NE motors had a #95 main jet, and even when they reduced the size to a #88 it was still way too rich. I have seen motors at high elevations using a #78 or #80 main jet, but most common is a #85 or #82 at sea level [some really "hot' motors will run a #88]. The photo of the piston in my last post was the result of running way too rich, and happened in less that 100 miles.

Have fun,

 

[Hal the Elder]

Hey Quenton:

HowDoo, Quenton!

Do you have a chart relating fuel/air mixture or jet size to altitude?

Do you think my 3000 ft. elevation is reason to go to a leaner main jet because the thinner atmopsphere up here makes the mixture too rich?

After re-installing my NE cam, I'll Email you concerning the head-milling job.

Thanks,
HAL