Solid HT white wire data

[duivendyk]

Hi Imp,I worked up a schematic diagram and a parts list with reference to Jaycar.com info.I kept it as simple as possible,the overcharge indicator circuit is more a tentative than a finished design,some values depend on what LED indicator light you want to use,the operating voltages vary quite a lot,but playing around with it is pretty straightforward, so you should be able to come up with something to your liking.
Circuit description: I envision that the guts would be put in a control box mounted in some convenient place.The input from the WW comes in via an in-line fuse F1 and goes through on/off switch S1 to the pos. side of Caps C1 and C2 ,and then on to the anode of diode CR1 which is connected to ground, which is imported from the engine ground.The anode of CR1 is connected to the cathode of CR2 ,the anode of which is connected to the -12V output from the battery which comes in via inline fuse F3.
The light output lead is connected via fuse F2 and switch S2.
Circuit operation: during the pos.part of the cycle the storage caps C1,C2 are charged,the side to the diodes is negative with respect to the input.When the input goes neg. this voltage rides on top of the negative going input and diode CR2 conducts when it goes more negative than the battery voltage delivering a current pulse.The duty factor of the ac input pulse is less than 10% so the instantaneous current are sizable (3-4 Amps),even if the output is only around 500 mA or so.For that reason the storage cap has been doubled up,the ac ripple currents are substantial and exceed the rating of a single one
Overcharge indicator,its main claim to fame is simplicity,basically a LED is turned on when the voltage offset provided by the string of diodes CR3 - - -CR6 is exceeded when the battery voltage exceeds 14V.Since the turn-on voltage of LED's varies and the zener offsets are subject to tolerance variations,some playing around is needed to get it to work properly.A selection is made of some combination of diodes.CR3 and 4 are Schottky diodes (0.35V each,providing 0.0 ,0.35 and 0,7 V, either zener CR5 or 6 can be selected (10 or11 V).If an LED used has a low firing voltage 11 or 12 V would be appropiate.TheSchotky diodes are for interpolation.
One way to play around would be to use a car battery as source,the non-running voltage is 12-12.5V, with the engine running around 14.4 V.Get the LED to turn on then add in 0.6 V extra offset and see if it turns off.Be careful around car batteries they can put out hundreds of amps.Schematic & parts list are to follow

 

[duivendyk]

Here is the parts list for the charge circuit
Fuses:
------- F1-----1 Amp----------- inline fuse
--------F2-----2 Amp----------- inline fuse
---------F3-----1Amp------------normal
Switches:
---------S1,S2--2Amp------------SPST
Diodes:
---------CR1,CR2------3Amp----1N 5404------ZR 1014 (Jaycar)
---------CR3,CR4------1Amp ---1N 5819------ZR1020------"
---------CR5----------10V zener,1N4740-------ZR1410------"
---------CR6----------11V zener,1N4741-------ZR1411------"
Capacitors:
---------C!,C2--------470uF,60V----------------RE6550 (Jaycar)
LED: Find one suitable,note Vf (firing voltage),typically 2-3 V

 

[lordoflightaz]

duivendyk I just want a simple diagram where i can wire up a circuit to charge my battery and then run 'whatever' from the battery

it took my about 10 mins to understand the wall of text you posted, i can only take in so much at a time without pictures to help sorry about that, i know its hard to explain things.

my last post, i was just curious about the led's vs bulb difference.

10 minutes, you're good it took me 10 minutes just to read through it the first time. I am going to wait for a picture/schematic.

Could you get away with something like this? http://www.morningstarcorp.com/en/sun-saver I have a 10L that is redundant in my solar system. or would I still need to convert AC to DC? before connecting this?

 

[duivendyk]

The schematic will follow,there's something amiss with my scanner,not sure what.
Are you all dyslexic?.Thirty lines,600 seconds or 20 seconds per line,come on !.It's not really difficult material,you need practice.That gismo is completely useless,we are talking about 5 Watts or so and have to be frugal with current

 

[duivendyk]

Here is the promised circuit diagram:

 

[duivendyk]

As an addendum to my circuit description I will give some pointers as to what can be left off, if a simpler implementation is preferred.The overcharge indicator can be dispensed with,if it is deemed unlikely that the battery will be overcharged,that saves quite a few parts.One of the 470uF caps C1,C2 may be something of an overkill, if they are high quality caps with low ESR.If room is tight that could be considered.The ultimate el cheapo design is to dispense with C1,C2 and replace them with a short,while also removing CR2.Essentally a direct diode to the battery.You lose about half the charge capacity,which to me is not the smartest thing to do.By all means keep the fuses and the switches,you need them.
One final thing don't run this charger unless a battery is connected up,if the overcharge circuit is used.You are likely to blow the zener or the LED with the it disconnected,installing a jack to check the battery voltage would also be a good idea.

 

[impression]

well, i tried to clean up the diagram a bit but the graph paper makes things a little difficult to determine what is what :S

the red circle area i'm having a little bit of trouble with.

also i think i got the parts list down
Fuses
F1 = 1amp inline fuse
F2 = 2amp inline fuse
F3 = 1amp normal

SWITCHES
S1 = 2amp
S2 = 2amp

i'm unsure what SPST is ?

Diodes
CR1= 3Amp----1N 5404------ZR 1014 (Jaycar)
CR2= 3Amp----1N 5404------ZR 1014 (Jaycar)
CR3= 1Amp ---1N 5819------ZR1020
CR4= 1Amp ---1N 5819------ZR1020
CR5= 10V zener,1N4740-------ZR1410
CR6= 11V zener,1N4741-------ZR1411

Capacitors:
C1= 470uF,60V----------------RE6550 (Jaycar)
C2= 470uF,60V----------------RE6550 (Jaycar)

have i gotten the list right ?

so if i took this list to the guy @ jaycar and then put it all together using the diagram as long as i payed attention to the overcharge circuit bulb i'll be fine ?

 

[duivendyk]

SPST means single pole single throw,a single on/off switch,just any old small on/off switch is OK Jaycar's got them. The dotted lines are possible jumper connections,take CR3 & CR4 ,with no connection,CR3 and CR4 in series,about 0.7 V drop,right jumper CR3 shorted,CR4 only, 0.35 V drop,left jumper both shorted,no V drop.If you prefer you can replace them with a miniature 2 position toggle switch (SPDT).The same holds for the other two jumper connections,selecting either one of the two zeners.Jumpers are typically used for implementing more or less permanent but selective circuit options,where switches may take to up too much room or are a waste of money,you get it now?Your list is OK ,watch out for polarities of diodes esp the LED&zeners,if you got the LED backwards it can still behave like a diode,sort of but no light, zeners behave like normal diodes if you got them backwards (only 0.6V drop instead of 10)!!!!

 

[HseLoMein]

Nice work guys, I would love to use this schematic for my system, has anyone built and tested this design?

 

[duivendyk]

Don't know what ensued, etacovda & impression have not been heard from at all for quite some time.The charge circuit is basically what et tested.The overvolt indicator circuit is a bit on the iffy side but simple (LED choice) and is a paper design.C1 &C2 need to be low ESR caps,value not really critical. A couple of amps are in these short pulses.