Tanaka 'Hot Start' problem

It hard starts when hot if I don't prime it repeatedly (no choke) and hold the tickler until gas runs out. I think the gas in bowl just vaporizes quickly after shut down when hot.

That makes perfect Dr. Spockish logical sense.

Any sane 40cc rider is running wide open, and that engine heat would be the mystery factor.

Air cooled means "when stopped, no breeze"...
 
on my Tanaka

I never used the choke..
Cold start just push primer bulb 3 times and pull
Warm restart just pull.
 
i've had plug-related starting problems, also. for one thing, the gearhead keeps trying to see how big a gap i can run. seems (to me) that .024-.028 is the best the cdi is gonna do. now, i just keep fresh plugs handy and stay at the recommended .024". it's difficult to tweak a stock engine that's optimised for emissions.

when warm-starting the 40 i get my best results with no priming and a few extra pulls. i was having problems with a wet plug if i primed it.

of course, it usually only doesn't-start if i have some beer in my pack...all shook up & noplace to go ;)
 
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Usually hot start issues on diaphragm carb motors I've seen are
are most often caused by:

1. the vent is clogged in the gas cap (try removing cap, then reattach, then try starting)
It would create a vacuum in the gas line, not allowing fuel to flow to the carb.
I mod my caps for a larger vent, so this does not happen.

2. Clogged internal fuel filter in the carb.

Check both.
If you undo the cap after it's hot, and you hear "shhhhhhh"
your cap isn't venting right.

My Tanaka could flood easily as well, and I never prime it if it's warm.
These lean burning tanakas are also succeptible to air leaks causing huge problems sometimes.
 
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