welding crank arms

Extending crank arm

On my first build, I had to move the crank arm out to clear the pull start. I cut the end off a steel crank arm. Also cut the end off a tapered crank arm shaft. Welded them together, drill through them and used a longer bolt. Worked great(pictures below). On later bikes I just bent an offset in a steel crank arm, also worked great.
 

Attachments

  • Img0064.JPG
    Img0064.JPG
    71.6 KB · Views: 381
  • new pictures bike 001.JPG
    new pictures bike 001.JPG
    66.1 KB · Views: 349
Archives1,
You told me(PM) that you have a spare crank arm. Cut off the end where it mates to the taperd shaft. Butt it up to the inside of your other crank arm(keeping the tapers aligned and weld them together. Use a longer 6mm bolt to reattach.

However bending an offset in the arm using a vise and large wrench is even easier.
You really don't feel any differance when pedaling.

The red bike has the offset pedal(also apple fuel tank).

The black one has the welded crank arm extension.
 

Attachments

  • DSCN2369.JPG
    DSCN2369.JPG
    86.9 KB · Views: 302
  • new pictures bike 021.JPG
    new pictures bike 021.JPG
    73.9 KB · Views: 346
  • new1 001.JPG
    new1 001.JPG
    66 KB · Views: 355
James great advice, I'll try bending the spare arm first, if that fails to give me enough clearance I'll cut and weld as you suggest. I notice that you have some sort of jackshaft and shifter on the red bike. Details please! You know how we are on here, we want to know everything. I don't see a candy apple gas tank though. Both bikes look great, I still don't know how you ride far with that seat though. I like the look but man, did my butt hurt. What sprocket are you using on the black bike and do you have enough hill climbing ability with it?
I have to either find a right angle fuel shut off or a different gas tank. The outlet on my tank goes straight back to the small end of the tank and lays very close to the frame so I cannot get the fuel line connected with out a sharp bend in it and an inline fuel filter is out of the question.
If I like this chopper when I finish it I may do another one to ride at my summer place, that's much more open and rural, lots of winding back roads around the many lakes in the area. For that one I'd like to do a jackshaft/shifter arrangement if I can fit a gear case in the rear wheel space. I'd also like to go to disc brakes on that one if I can do it. I have pics of Byrons build that look possible to do. Keep building!
 
The red bike has a apple juice can tank in the bag, behind the seat.

The picture of the black bike may have the old 44t sprocket, have changed to 32t.
Hill climbing iwith the black bike is so-so. I now know from experience that adding a tuned pipe will resolve that problem.

However I built the red one for a test bed, five speed, tuned exhaust and integrated mtr mount/jackshaft.

The black bike has a hidden tensioner(spring loaded)

As for the seat! Yes it was a pain in the ***. I resolved that by making a seat that works great(nice and comfy). Used the seat all summer and I ride some bumpy semipaved roads. See attached pictures.
 

Attachments

  • DSCN2350.JPG
    DSCN2350.JPG
    76.5 KB · Views: 343
  • DSCN2351.JPG
    DSCN2351.JPG
    79.7 KB · Views: 332
  • DSCN2352.JPG
    DSCN2352.JPG
    84.5 KB · Views: 326
  • DSCN2361.JPG
    DSCN2361.JPG
    86.5 KB · Views: 316
You can extend the tank outlet using a male to female adapter. however if you install the shutoff in the tank before mounting the tank, it should fit.(this is what I did). DO NOT run your bike without an in line filter(personal opinion).
Be sure to use a good fuel proof gunk when installing your shutoff.

Here is a pic showing shutoff, filter and DIY filter mounting bracket.

Also included pic of steering limiter.
Keeps handle bars from flopping around(bicycle style) and more like a Mtr-Cycle. This also lets you clean up the lengths of your cables.
 

Attachments

  • new pictures bike 002.JPG
    new pictures bike 002.JPG
    74 KB · Views: 300
  • new pictures bike 016.JPG
    new pictures bike 016.JPG
    57.1 KB · Views: 297
  • new pictures bike 017.JPG
    new pictures bike 017.JPG
    56.2 KB · Views: 335
Thanks again James, The seat "springs" are a flash of genius. Very clever. You certainly have the skills to do these bikes. I like the set up for the handle bar limiter. Mine has two little rubber padded screws to stop it but they are about useless. I'll intergrate your design into my plan. Making the jackshaft mount a part of the engine mount is a great idea also. Unfortunately, I have to have all my machining and welding done by others, not much equipment to work with metal here. I do mostly woodworking in my own shop. My local muffler shop has been great about welding things for me, I just buy him a case of beer now and then. I was a patternmaker during my working life but that too was mainly wood, there is a pattern shop near me that has been kind enough to do some minor machining for me. They can't allow me to use any equipment of course because of liability concerns. I take the whole crew there a couple of dozen doughnuts now and then as a token of appreciation.
You're absolutely right about an external fuel filter, both my cruisers have them and I will get one on this bike somehow. The tank on your bike is different than mine, having more of a downward angle, mine goes straight back toward the seat along the frame line. I can get the shut off in ok, it's just poorly positioned for this particular bike. I will switch tanks with one of my cruisers as they both have different tanks that will work better. I used teflon tape on my shut off valves, no leaks so far but I do have gas proof putty as well.
Before I mounted any of my tanks, I filled the tank with small stainless screws and nuts along with some very course sand. Then I strapped it to a paint shaker for awhile and it cleaned any rust out beautifully. I made sure I did a very good job of cleaning the sand out. I've had all my tanks chrome plated inside.
 
I purchased a jack shaft (2 bearings, 5/8" shaft w/keyway and two bearing mounts(flat washer style "didn't use them"). That cost about $38

Bearings fit perfect in black iron pipe from home depot.
Bought a freewheel hub adapter 15mm bore. Turned the end of shaft down to 15mm, easier than opening the bore.
 

Attachments

  • DSCN2264.JPG
    DSCN2264.JPG
    66.3 KB · Views: 295
  • 031.JPG
    031.JPG
    41.8 KB · Views: 380
Arkives1,
Perhaps we could swap some skills. I have a milling mach(small, a metal lathe and small welder ect.)
My sister asked me to make 6 duplicate wooden drawer pulls for her. I can do it on my harding but wood is not my expertise.
Perhaps I could make something for your MB project in exchange for you making the pulls.


Jim
 

Attachments

  • peggy 013.JPG
    peggy 013.JPG
    70.6 KB · Views: 297
Jim, I'd happily make the pulls for you just because you've been so helpful with my bike. You've certainly saved me from having to do all the engineering on some of these things. I don't have a lathe in my home shop but I do have access to one. My lady's brother lets me use his but I have to sharpen all his turning tools for him, he doesn't know how.
I need a picture or a drawing of what she needs along with dimensions. I don't do any carving. I tried but my carving looks like I dropped a chainsaw on the piece.
Larry
 

Attachments

  • Larry.jpg
    Larry.jpg
    17.2 KB · Views: 292
When I retrieve my camera thursday I'll take a closeup. Just a straight forward turning project(no carving). If looks if it looks like not to much of a project I'll send you one to copy. Of course this only if you allow me to recipocate.

Jim
 
Back
Top