Whizzer coil & spark plug

[WZ507]

Whizzer problem

Nolan,

I use a 2 jaw puller attached to the engine pulley to remove the flywheel (no chance of bending crank). Wooden wedges are OK, but I just hate using wedges on a crankshaft because if the flywheel is corroded on the taper the force required to remove it with wedges can get excessive. If it's not on tight, a little wedge pressure and a few taps with a brass hammer on the crank bolt will often dislodge it. At any rate I'd use two wedges in an attempt to keep the force balanced.

Regarding the continuing drivability issues, does your carb have a high speed adjustment or is it the fixed main jet variety? You mention that it does not idle well and I want to probe that further. I've assumed all along that you know how to set the idle circuit on the carb and that it is working properly (throttle plate positioned correctly, idle mixture screw set properly, engine responds to changes in idle mixture settings). Is that true?

When you attempt to get it to idle is it on the stand with the rear wheel rotating free or is it on the ground with the belt dragging? It is very difficult to obtain a stable idle when the engine is under load. As always, keep us posted on your progress.

 

[Nolan]

Thanks for all the info everyone! Especially Quenton who helped me track down the correct spark plug for the high fin head(probably the last thing I would have figured out) I also installed the electronic ignition and it fired right up.(had to switch around the polarity though) Thing is a lot louder than I expected, I guess its because of the High compression head, and it also has a larger bore and bigger valves. So much for convincing the cops its 50cc, I guess I'll have to get it registered. I'm gonna take it up to my college and get some legit shots of it in the photo room, I also have to work on getting the headlight and tail light working.
-Nolan

 

[Nolan]

well back to square 2.. took it around the block today, got about a mile away and turned around, then on my way back it lost upper end power and started dying every few hundred feet. I get it back and my spark is weak again, (right after I got the electronic ignition in I had a very strong spark) So could the electronic ignition have died? I've checked all the connections and tried my spare sparkplug, so I'm stumped again.
-Nolan

 

[Traveler]

I finally got the bike together enough to pedal it on the stand and check the spark. It sparked a few times then quit. I checked it with an Ohm meter and no resistance. Guess I'll be stopping by Memory Lane Classics again in July to get a new magneto. It will have to wait until then.

 

[RdKryton]

It almost seems like the coil starts to fade after it gets hot. Do you still have a weak spark when cold? I don't know what else could be causing the spark fade. The electronic ignition removed the points and condenser from the equation. The new plug too. I'm not sure where else to look other than the coil.

Jim

 

[Traveler]

Spark

I know almost nothing about the electronic ignition, but I did read some posts that say if it is weak, then reverse it. One way is supposed to be a lot stronger.

 

[WZ507]

Whizzer problem

Nolan,

I'm with Jim on this one. Leaky or open coils can be both temperature and humidity sensitive, and can be perplexing as the symptoms come and go. Your experience thus far fits the bill of questionable coil very well - it works, then it doesn't work, it runs at high speed but dies at low speed, etc. Your coil is begging to be swapped out for a good part.

 

[Nolan]

Thanks, I'll have to order one on monday, as far as removing the condenser do I just snip it off where its soldered, or do I have to reground it to the coil again?
-Nolan

 

[WZ507]

Whizzer ignition

Nolan - you're on top of it. Just snip off the condenser lead, hook up the module and you're done.

 

[Nolan]

hmm this is beginning to get frustrating

So I got a new coil, installed it and also ran half a bottle of carb cleaner though it. Put some fresh gas in and its still doing the same thing more or less so I'm guessing thats not it.
I'm gonna mess around with the carb adjustments some more tomorrow and I have yet to test the flywheel magnets correctly. I will usually start right off the bat with the choke closed and will be able to accelerate fairly quickly, I'll open the choke and it will work like that for a few blocks. When I slow down and release the clutch with throttle on a little bit the RPM's will speed up and the engine makes a pretty loud noise every revolution. It will stop when I drop it down to idling speed then on my next run down the block it will only have a little power at idling speed and will not respond to throttle changes, but will once I pull the clutch. I'm not sure if this is a problem but when I stall the engine and continue to roll the engine through the cycles, I have exhaust smoke coming out of the oil breather and carb.

I think I just need to have a whizzer guy look at it, cause I'm sure they would be able to figure it out right away. Know of anyone in the seattle area?