Street Ryderz
Well-Known Member
Well now thats even better!
66cc, picking a starter engine
- Thread starter Rusty_S85
- Start date
Street Ryderz
Well-Known Member
That will give you good midrange responce and with a good pipe really pull thru your gearing!
gary55
Well-Known Member
That's what I was thinking would probably be best with this Nuvinci hub. If I can get it strong enough to pull the ratios I won't need the high rpm.
Been messin around with brakes today. Nice thing about the dual adjustment on the avid bb7's is you don't even need the cable hooked up. You can center it up on the rotor with the inner and outer adjusters, and clamp it onto the rotor where the pads are getting full contact, then fab the rear mounting tab accordingly.
Street Ryderz
Well-Known Member
That's basicly how I do it aswell works great!
Well I need to revisit this topic. Didn't see the point in creating a new topic to ask this.
But I think I have my eyes set on a Zeda engine, mainly the Zeda Weekend Special they have that requires some assembly.
How ever, Ive been doing some reading on reed valves and Zeda does sell a sleeved Zeda80 cylinder head with and without small reed capability.
Now from my reading a reed valve will improve low rpm power which is what I am looking for is low and mid range power as I do not really want a high rpm screaming engine. I do want to bump up compression and it seems with the steel sleeved cylinder I should be able to bump compression up quite a bit without worrying about damage to the cylinder. As far as fuel goes I can buy 93 octane unleaded here so long as I keep it low to run off 93 pump gas I have no problem spending $2.80 for 1 gallon of 93 octane for my bike and have it last me 160ish miles (figuring about 80 miles to a tank with a 0.6 gallon fuel tank roughly).
But my question stems from the reed valve, Zeda offers a cylinder reed and they also sell complete engines with a crank case mounted reed valve which I think looks a bit strange especially with the intake port on the cylinder left in the head.
So is the case mounted reed valve worth the extra money? Or will a cylinder mounted reed valve be enough?
But I think I have my eyes set on a Zeda engine, mainly the Zeda Weekend Special they have that requires some assembly.
How ever, Ive been doing some reading on reed valves and Zeda does sell a sleeved Zeda80 cylinder head with and without small reed capability.
Now from my reading a reed valve will improve low rpm power which is what I am looking for is low and mid range power as I do not really want a high rpm screaming engine. I do want to bump up compression and it seems with the steel sleeved cylinder I should be able to bump compression up quite a bit without worrying about damage to the cylinder. As far as fuel goes I can buy 93 octane unleaded here so long as I keep it low to run off 93 pump gas I have no problem spending $2.80 for 1 gallon of 93 octane for my bike and have it last me 160ish miles (figuring about 80 miles to a tank with a 0.6 gallon fuel tank roughly).
But my question stems from the reed valve, Zeda offers a cylinder reed and they also sell complete engines with a crank case mounted reed valve which I think looks a bit strange especially with the intake port on the cylinder left in the head.
So is the case mounted reed valve worth the extra money? Or will a cylinder mounted reed valve be enough?
Street Ryderz
Well-Known Member
The case reed set up is really the only one that see's 172 degrees of intake duration all the port reeds lose some dration due to the improper window timing!The window in the piston needs to be open to the port from the very start of the stroke and most dont and try to comprimise by adding the third transfer or booster port!
Street Ryderz
Well-Known Member
I dont understand you say that you want to bump comp make torque and not have a high rpm engine?What gearing are you going to use?You do realize that it's a 2 stroke and stock gearing with 26" wheels will have it spinning 8,000 rpm just to hit 34-35mph witch is the speed I beleive you said you want to cruise at?
Well Zeda sells ported pistons.
https://zedamotorsports.com/shop?ol...w-piston-327cdd3c-8fb2-4aee-9a69-8d31f2b5266b
I don't see an out right iron sleeved jug that comes with a ported piston they come with a flat top piston but no mention if its a windowed piston.
I have two problems in my mind right now with the case mounted reed intake. First I mentioned which is how I don't like the cylinder jug having the intake port still there I feel it should have been filled in which if I went this route I would have to grind a sealer plate just to put over it to give it a nicer professional look to meet my requirements of quality look. Second issue I didn't mention but it looks like it will do away with the clutch cable mount or at the very least make it very hard to assemble the clutch cable
I need to explain that better. For me I am going to try to gear the bike for a decent compromise to get the cruise rpm as low as possible but still maintain where I don't have to pedal off the line and get the bike going first. As of now I have a 44T sprocket as that is all Grubee had on his website listed that I could find when I purchased my 61mm HD axle. I have since found a place that stock his 36T sprocket that I will be buying and I also found another place that can build me a custom tooth sprocket for the Grubee 6 bolt flange.
The whole reason why I want to keep RPM down low is to make the engine last as long as possible. With a chrome lined cylinder Ive been reading high rpm and very high compression shortens the life of the jug as the chrome starts to flake off. I could send the jug out to have it chromed with a better material that would last longer but it would cost me more than buying a steel sleeved jug from Zeda. Now if I go with the steel sleeved jug from Zeda I don't see a problem with spinning the engine all the way up to 12,000 rpm or what ever rpm these engines will come apart. A steel cylinder can take abuse a lot better than a cheaply chrome lined cylinder. That is what is in cars is a steel cylinder and look how long they last.
Now if I go with the Zeda steel sleeve jug I will have to dive deeper into the rabbit hole and find out what I need to upgrade to make the engine durable at high rpm and not fly apart on me. I believe I read something about having to change the piston needle bearings with better quality ones if spinning high rpm.
In the end I have no problem running high rpm if it will be safe to do and not cause my engine to have to be pulled off and replaced in a year or so. I want this engine to preferably last as long as the bike will last if not that then if I can get 5 years out of the engine I will be happy.
The other thing I don't like is I see this one guy his bike goes by at work in the fall every morning hes going about 25 - 30 mph and it sounds like his engine is wringed out at max rpm and sounds like a edger coming down the road loud and slow. Me I want to try and mellow the noise out as I don't want it to be making a lot of loud screaming exhaust noise and not go anywhere. I don't mind having a good exhaust sound but I just laugh every time I hear that bike cause its like sheesh that engine sounds like its being strangled to death at high rpm but the bike isn't really going anywhere fast. I understand that with a single speed bike you are going to turn higher rpm when compared to a multi speed bike. But like with anything performance you make sacrifices in some areas to get what you rather have in another area, example fuel economy you sacrifice some performance to gain some fuel economy. In this case I am willing to sacrifice some performance/acceleration to gain some lower rpms at a given speed.
Now with me thinking I cant say for sure Ideally I would like the bike to be capable of what the original Indian Motorbicycles were capable of speed wise they were 25 - 30 mph bicycles. In my mind I would like 30 - 35 mph cruise so it gives me a little more in case I have to hit the throttle to get out of the way or to avoid a collision. People here in Houston they are f***ing insane with driving both bicycle and car drivers so I rather have a little more in reserve than I will be normally using.
If that means a case reed set up would give me better low end power than a jug mounted reed set up then I will seriously consider going with that but it would have my bike put on the back burner for a good 6 months as I don't have the funds to drop nearly $600 on a engine. Why I was looking at the Weekend Special for $130 as it comes with a free reed valve all I would have to do is just spend another $215 and I can get a flat top piston with a steel sleeved jug. So for $345 I can build my own version of their $500 engine (still have to buy the $90 diamond head) which their $500 engine doesn't come with the kit but their $130 weekend special is a kit.
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