Best Coaster Brake Hub for a Whizzer?

Discussion in 'Whizzer Motorized Bicycles' started by MaxGlide, Nov 2, 2010.

  1. MaxGlide

    MaxGlide Member

    The Morrow hub that I rebuilt is not cutting it as far as stopping my Whizzer. When I try to engage it it feels like the teeth that are supposed to mesh are not locking and it is skipping with a ratcheting sound. If I really stand on it it works but when I release it, I get the ratchet sound.

    Anyway, I am wondering what you all think is a good hub to use? It is a one inch pitch main sprocket which I assume means I have to rule out newer hubs.

    Thanks in advance to all.


  2. RdKryton

    RdKryton Active Member

    I don't know if rebuild parts are available but if they are I would go that route. I also have had good luck with the Shimano CB 110.
    Do you have a front brake? If not please get one.

  3. MaxGlide

    MaxGlide Member

    Morrow rebuild

    Well I did rebuild it. Took it apart, completely cleaned it. All parts looked in real good shape with no wear showing exept the brass brake shoes so I found one that was in excellent shape. Greased the heck out of it. It worked at first though I had to stand on it to get it to engage with any force but it didn't skip. Now you cannot simply engage the brake without it bucking.

    I do have a Sturmey Archer XF-D on the front. Thing is I'm in Vancouver Canada and there are lots of hills here so I want to spread out the braking duties.

    I'll check out the Shimano.

    Thanks.... Wayne
  4. KilroyCD

    KilroyCD Active Member

    Wayne, I suggest the Shimano CB-E110 as well. I have that brake on three of my four motorized bikes (including my Whizzer). The fourth one has a New Departure Model D brake, a brake that has to be adjusted just right to avoid it becoming red hot while riding. As a result I generally do not suggest that brake unless one is extremely familiar with either adjusting it correctly or rebuilding it once the lubricant has all liquified and oozed out due to the excessive heat.
  5. MaxGlide

    MaxGlide Member

    Shimano it is then! I'll have to get another chain ring as the present one is 1" pitch.... darn! and I just got it re-chromed.

  6. jbcruisin

    jbcruisin Member

    I use the Shimano hub too.
  7. MaxGlide

    MaxGlide Member

    Shimano CB-E110

    I notice that the this hub comes in a .105. My rear wheel has .120 spokes with brass nipples. I would like to use those as the brass looks cool. Will the .120 (or 10 gauge) spokes fit in there, and if not, is there enough metal left for me to drill out the spoke holes to make them fit?

    Also, can anybody tell me the hub diameter of this hub. The Morrow is 2.5 inches or 63.5mm. Wondering if I need different length spokes.

    thanks..... Wayne
    Last edited: Jun 14, 2011
  8. chainmaker

    chainmaker Member

    You can find the hub info on Shimano website, as far as drilling out the hubs there should be plenty of room.
  9. MaxGlide

    MaxGlide Member

    I looked on the Shimano site but could not find any specs on it?

    If anyone has a link to the spec sheets....
  10. thimmaker

    thimmaker New Member

    Drilling out the hub

    Sears and probably others, has a 1/8" carbide ball nose cutter for the dremel tools. Iv'e used it a few times in a drill press at high speed to open a hub, and it goes through like butter. Feed it slow to keep from chipping the carbide.
  11. MaxGlide

    MaxGlide Member

    Thanks Thimmaker.

    I know I can drill it out, I did that with teh Morrow hub. I was just wondering if there would be enough metal leftover after drilling to keep the hub strong enough.

    I have a Bendix coaster hub but the 10 gauge hole will mean there is very little metal left on the outer part of the hub.

    Thanks... Wayne
  12. MaxGlide

    MaxGlide Member

    Thought I'd update you all on this hub thing.

    I thought i should take a closer look at the Morrow hub as after doing more reading it was supposed to be a very good hub. Turns out there were two things that were making it malfunction.
    1) I had not assembled the bushing to the cone on the arm side properly which meant the gap between the expanding sleeve (with teeth) was too big and the teeth did not engage properly when braking. the barely caught and started slipping making a terrible ratcheting noise.
    2) I had put too much grease in some places where the instruction was to oil the gears, not goop on grease.

    Anyway, luckily I had a Morrow hub with good parts on it so I switched them out for the ones I had mangled due to the slippage, greased and oiled as instructed and it works great now!!

    WOOOHOOO!!! No need to get another, hub, drill it out for 10g spoked, re-lace the hub, true the wheel....

    Lesson learned, read and follow instructions to the letter and all will be fine.
    Last edited: Jun 29, 2011
  13. msrfan

    msrfan New Member

    Glad you figured the Morrow out. They're awesome hubs. If you ever want to run a late model brake that has 1/2'' pitch chain, you can grind every other tooth off and use your skip tooth providing it has an even number of teeth. I did it with a Bendiix automatic and it works great.

  14. MaxGlide

    MaxGlide Member


    I will keep that in mind..... for now the MOrrow seems to be working very well.