RB55
Active Member
Hello All,
I just finished the process or replacing my entire rear wheel and inner tube due to a slipping hub adapter. It cost about $100 and was a pain to do. The adapter slipped and bent all the spokes, puncturing the inner tube causing the wheel to badly deform. Hub adapters are better and safer than the rag joint clamps that come with the engine kits but have the same potential to destroy your rear wheel if not installed properly! So please read the tips below before installing a hub adapter so you don't destroy your rear wheel. I'm sure there are other methods of installing a hub adapter properly but this is what I did:
1. Sanded/filed down the surfaces where the two halves of the hub adapter touch each other. This way the two halves of the hub adapter clamp down on the hub instead of clamping down on the other half of the adapter.
2. Used brake cleaner to thoroughly clean the hub and adapter halves before installation.
3. I applied a metal retaining and gap filling compound (Loctite 660) to the adapter surfaces before installation. The retaining compound is meant to be used on cylindrical shafts to prevent rotational slippage. I allowed 24 hours to cure. If you do decide to use a retaining compound remember that it is almost permanent! The only way to remove the adapter will be to heat it up with a blowtorch.
4. I used blue Loctite threadlocker on all screws before installation.
5. When tightening the screws, I used a 1/4 inch metal pipe to apply far more torque to the screws (especially the screws that clamp the adapter halves together) than would be possible if I had just used my hand. I put the ends of the Allen keys in the pipe (which was a few feet long) and tightened them as much as I possibly could. You will not strip the screws out!
After doing this, my hub adapter has not slipped one millimeter. It is fixed in place. I have a very powerful engine (5 HP) which might have contributed to the old adapter slipping. Regardless, now I can ride confidently knowing that my rear wheel is safe.
I just finished the process or replacing my entire rear wheel and inner tube due to a slipping hub adapter. It cost about $100 and was a pain to do. The adapter slipped and bent all the spokes, puncturing the inner tube causing the wheel to badly deform. Hub adapters are better and safer than the rag joint clamps that come with the engine kits but have the same potential to destroy your rear wheel if not installed properly! So please read the tips below before installing a hub adapter so you don't destroy your rear wheel. I'm sure there are other methods of installing a hub adapter properly but this is what I did:
1. Sanded/filed down the surfaces where the two halves of the hub adapter touch each other. This way the two halves of the hub adapter clamp down on the hub instead of clamping down on the other half of the adapter.
2. Used brake cleaner to thoroughly clean the hub and adapter halves before installation.
3. I applied a metal retaining and gap filling compound (Loctite 660) to the adapter surfaces before installation. The retaining compound is meant to be used on cylindrical shafts to prevent rotational slippage. I allowed 24 hours to cure. If you do decide to use a retaining compound remember that it is almost permanent! The only way to remove the adapter will be to heat it up with a blowtorch.
4. I used blue Loctite threadlocker on all screws before installation.
5. When tightening the screws, I used a 1/4 inch metal pipe to apply far more torque to the screws (especially the screws that clamp the adapter halves together) than would be possible if I had just used my hand. I put the ends of the Allen keys in the pipe (which was a few feet long) and tightened them as much as I possibly could. You will not strip the screws out!
After doing this, my hub adapter has not slipped one millimeter. It is fixed in place. I have a very powerful engine (5 HP) which might have contributed to the old adapter slipping. Regardless, now I can ride confidently knowing that my rear wheel is safe.
