Chains Chain hitting the left wishbone

Discussion in 'Transmission / Drivetrain' started by RobC, Sep 1, 2013.

  1. RobC

    RobC New Member

    Clearly not a good thing as it is chewing into the frame and I imagine it cant be good for the chain either.
    I have the engine as low as I can get it. I was thinking about adding a chain tensionor on the top but something tells me that is not a good idea since that is where all the torque is.
    Any thoughts on how I can get an 1/8" here?

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Sep 6, 2013

  2. zippinaround

    zippinaround Active Member

    is your sprocket dished or is it flat?
  3. zwebx

    zwebx Member

    i had the same problem with my bike, i left it.. and it ground down like half the frame.. it was a bad bike anyway.. didnt let me down tho..
  4. RobC

    RobC New Member

    Close to being flat but I think there is a slight dish with the concave side facing towards the hub. That should be correct as flipping it would result in moving the chain further to the left which is what I am trying to avoid. I suppose the only real way to correct is to modify the motor mounts to move the motor down or try moving the wheel down in the wheel mount. I have corrected the following pics.
    20130831_171626.jpg 20130831_181744.jpg
  5. RobC

    RobC New Member

    I may be tempted to do the same as it has ground down quite a bit until I noticed. I thought about zip tying a piece of nylon in there....
  6. zwebx

    zwebx Member

    because its on the tension side of the chain it will slap side to side and grind it away anyway.
    the only real solution is to bend the frame with a torch and then mount some nylon
  7. wheelbender6

    wheelbender6 Well-Known Member

    I had a similar problem. I moved the tensioner further back towards the rear wheel. The chain "crosses" the yoke, or chain stay at a point closer to the rear wheel, where there is more room. Hopefully, the pic illustrates that. You may need to add a few chain links to do that. Worth a try to save your frame.
    Last edited: Sep 2, 2013
    RobC likes this.
  8. RobC

    RobC New Member

    Thanks, I tried bending the frame by spreading it out at the offending point with a bolt and nut spreader. I got it spread about a half inch but when I took it off, the frame snapped back to it original shape. I would assume that if I did that same thing but took a torch to the bend points it would stay?
  9. zwebx

    zwebx Member

    i would say so, if it doesn't leave the spreader on there till it cools and heat up other places the tension could be
  10. RobC

    RobC New Member

    Thanks for the tips.
    I was able to buy an $8 manifold spreader. I put to pipe clamps on each side to keep the spreader from rolling out when I started spreading it. I spread it about 3/4" and applied the torch on each side. Let it cool and took it off. Sprung back some but still got the 1/4" I needed. By the way, I realize it would have been better to take the wheel off, but I was in a rush to take the bike on a camping trip....
    20130906_103315.jpg 20130906_103800.jpg 20130906_104347.jpg 20130906_130919.jpg
  11. HeadSmess

    HeadSmess Well-Known Member

    cured. and the right way! good to see the spreader in there.

    other than can get away by clamps above and below the spreader, pulling in. think of it like breaking a twig over your knee. without the breaking part.... :jester:

    lesson learnt? theres a few things to look out for on any prospective frame, and kinked seat stays are one of em!

    i would be keeping an eye out for a new frame asap..
  12. zwebx

    zwebx Member

    Good thing you did not take your wheel off as because it would have stretched the frame where the wheel is and you would have had to sit on the frame on its side to make it fit again
  13. Fabian

    Fabian Well-Known Member

    This problem can be easily avoided by fitting a sickBikeParts shift kit. Why do people bother to make their life hard?
  14. herbiedriver

    herbiedriver New Member

    I just went through the same thing, my solution was pretty simple, fast and cheap!
    I just put two washers between the dropouts and the hub on that side (coaster brake side) and it moved the entire wheel assembly over enough to clear the chain stay... easy and quick.
  15. Robot

    Robot New Member

    Well this is a reply to an older post so for those whom have already found that a 3/16'' x 1/2'' chain is lighter and will do the job you have tried that suggestion..