DLH Saf Clutch Issues

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Trimmed down the nut so it's not higher than crank shaft threading hitting the plate. Now I noticed my bar for the bearing is to small.

All I have access to cut right now is a larger drill bit end. It's isn't quite the right diameter so I'll have to use it temporarily until I can go to hardware store and get something that's stronger and trim.
 

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I cannot figure this crap out. I might just install a stock clutch, upgrade the spring and pin and call it a day!
 
Damien, nice expanded drawings of the internals of the clutch. I'm saving those. Thanks.

What I'm seeing is you have the rod that the flower nut attaches to out. That shouldn't come out without removing and disassembling the internal clutch mechanism. There is a small pin that holds it together. The hole in the rod that holds the flower nut looks worn out. I say you need a new internal clutch set up. You don't have to split the case to change it.

Here is a picture of a spare. You can see the small threaded end that the flower nut screws to. This shouldn't just come out come out.

Also don't forget the ball bearing.
 

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Damien, nice expanded drawings of the internals of the clutch. I'm saving those. Thanks.

What I'm seeing is you have the rod that the flower nut attaches to out. That shouldn't come out without removing and disassembling the internal clutch mechanism. There is a small pin that holds it together. The hole in the rod that holds the flower nut looks worn out. I say you need a new internal clutch set up. You don't have to split the case to change it.

Here is a picture of a spare. You can see the small threaded end that the flower nut screws to. This shouldn't just come out come out.

Also don't forget the ball bearing.
Saf clutch guts the internal spring and relies on the pressure of the outer printer springs. I have all the parts from another engine. As far as installing. I did have trouble trying to wack the old one out of this engine case. Dlh assembly videos do describe that sometimes the nut to the crankshaft rod is to far out, so I grinded one down. To have the clutch pad contact all the way to the brake pads. The saf clutches don't use flower nuts. They use a lock nut on the crankshaft rod that you screw the crankshaft rod that comes out of your crank shaft that was originally intended for the flower nut as well. This typically is stuck in the crank shaft that mounts the 10t sprocket and the flower nut to the clutch basket on the opposite side. I think this problem is more complex. I think I need a new crankshaft, pads and a better clutch plate. This is being ran off a 9hp ported Minarelli.
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@ Chainlube, It does seem the clutch plate is just continuously rotating against the break pads. Considering this plate isn't the best. I have ordered some brake pads to replace these. In hopes that they may grip tighter I will have to trim them to where they free float in the basket. Some people also mention replacing the pads with more expensive thicker pads such as rdm black and metallics. I could however go to an auto store and buy their cheapest semi metallic brake pad for a car and Dremel my own? Either or stock china clutch plates suck in this scenario it seems. I'm having troubling locating better ones besides bicycle-engines.com Zelda clutch plate, rdm machinated ones which I would have to back order and wait until April to receive, or AliExpress.com which can take a month to come in. It appears California motorbikes have their clutch plate back in stock as well. Zane's typically pretty good about shipping if I request he sends them via UPS.

Other thing is the gears do lock up. Is just when I push the bike forward or backwards. There is absolutely no force of the tire stiffening back or forth. It just freely spins. Therefore meaning the clutch plate is just freely spinning fully compressed to the pads. When I bought the bike off someone the clutch worked. When I brought it home and removed the plate and looked inside the nut that secured the plate was unthreaded as though it spun off. I secured it and this is when they problem started. The crankshaft rod just freely spins with the plate fully secured and assembled contacting to the ball bearing and bucking bar. After correcting the nuts depth to the threading of the rod last night. It brought the clutch plate closer. I had to also cut a drill bit end and use it as the bucking bar as the original bucking bar was too short and wasn't tensing the clutch lever after correcting the issue with nut to the clutch basket not being fully seated in.

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I think your clutch plate is too thin material wise & possibly the dish in the clutch plate is not deep enough.
 
I think your clutch plate is too thin material wise & possibly the dish in the clutch plate is not deep enough.
I'm leaning towards the same issue as I stated in my previous response. Does anybody know any other place to buy better aftermarket CNC clutch plates? Everyone's out of stock from my main sources!
 
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