Ground Control To Major Staton

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by stringer, Jul 27, 2008.

  1. stringer

    stringer New Member


    I picked up a high quality kill switch to replace the chinese toggle switch that came with my EH035 Staton rack mount friction kit. Only thing is, this switch has two wires and one is a ground. Well, I cant seem to locate a spot for the ground wire. I know about zero when it comes to this, but I was assuming I needed to find spot made of steel to mount this? Upon closer inspection, it appears everything on my bike is aluminum ... frame, components, handlebars etc. What should I do, or is aluminum ok? I just need a proper ground, preferably close to the handlebars. The part that grasps the handlebars would be an ideal place, but it is aluminum. Any ideas for a good ground, in a good place?:confused:

    switch -;jsessionid=AYGVKV5Y1DKLPLA0WTKSM4VMDK0NCIV0?store=Main&skuId=212236

  2. ibdennyak

    ibdennyak Guest

    Aluminum is fine, however you want an unobstructed path back to the engine. I would suggest running a ground wire back to the engine. Things like grease in the fork bearings, or rubber mounts can keep it from working properly.

  3. stringer

    stringer New Member

    Thanks alot. It appears running it back to the engine is the best way to go. I have to run the other wire there anyway.

    I went to lowes and walmart today looking for some wire (mine is too short). Ill need to splice into my existing wires and elongate them. The wires (2)coming from my kill switch are wrapped in some kind of rubber/vinyl protective sleeve. I couldnt find any wires like this. Basicly I need about 2.5 feet of this stuff, which is two wires wrapped in a blanket. Any1 know where I can find something like this? Or another alternative? Thanks.
  4. SirJakesus

    SirJakesus Guest

    The automotive section at walmart has tons of wire and connectors. Just get light gauge wire (16 or higher#) and a package of male/female crimp connectors.
  5. Warner

    Warner Member

    I thought the kill switch that my Staton kit came with was fine. Simple one-wire deal that worked fine. Is he sending different kill switches with different kits?

  6. Happy Valley

    Happy Valley Active Member

    Who knows. Staton sent me an invoice telling me I had a free, $10 upgraded kill switch on the kit I ordered. We shall see.
  7. stringer

    stringer New Member

    no i got mine from dennis kirk, link in original post.

    i went to walmart and all they had was the speaker wire stuff, and single black wire but nothing in a sleeve.
  8. SirJakesus

    SirJakesus Guest

    The kill switch that came with my staton kit also works perfectly and looks like it will last the life of the kit itself.
    I doubt you're going to find something with two wires in a sleeve. If you need the sleeve get some electrical shrink wrapping. Personally I would just twist the wires together for the last distance to the motor and secure the end of the twisted portions with small zip ties.
  9. stringer

    stringer New Member

    I was just now trying to decide what sort of wires to use (leaning toward something flat that can fit under the frame with a low profile) and holding the round wires attached to the staton supplied kill switch up to my frame. Then i toggled the switch only to find out that it doesn't mechanically toggle. Lol its broken. Glad i picked up this one, which seems bullet and hurricane proof. Also, this switch is an EOM kawasaki part that happens to fit a dirtbike i used to have. switch worked good on that, too haha.
  10. Alaskavan

    Alaskavan Guest

    The wires off a defunct Toaster, microwave, or TV would work. Some left-over speaker wire would also work fine. Anything that gives the spark a path that is easier than jumping the gap at the spark plug.
  11. stringer

    stringer New Member

    I got some hi quality black speaker wire. Its perfect. To further insulate everything, I covered the entire length in 3/16's black shrink tubing. This electrical system is gonna be hurricane proof. :grin:

    Heres what the switch looks like. The twist throttle is the staton supplied one. I greased the insides so it moves freely. I also sanded the chrome hardware and painted it gloss black to match my bike. Picked up some adhesive-backed wire holders i will paint black and secure with some super glue and use with some black tie straps. The grips are 4.5 inch motocross grips secured with motocross grip glue.

    Attached Files:

  12. duivendyk

    duivendyk Guest

    I am in principle opposed to using the bike frame as a ground return,it raises the electrical EMI noise level,affecting tachometers and is not all that reliable either.Good electrical practice is to use a central ground point at the engine,and uses 2 conductor cable,ordinary appliance cord is fine,one is the ground return wire, it is only grounded at this common point.All connections should preferably be soldered,crimp connections, if any should be checked by pulling at the cable,to check for a loose connection.Shrink sleeving should be used to protect connections.This wiring system reduces the stray magnetic fields a lot,which are the main contributors to EMI.Kill switches should be of good quality and protected from moisture incursion,or be sealed.Never ever hook up a kill switch directly to the high voltage connection to the spark plug !,there are a couple of KILO volts there,very dangerous,any leakage to ground on this connection could also easily kill the spark and keep you from starting the engine.
  13. SirJakesus

    SirJakesus Guest

    Very nice your handlebars are so CLEAN!