HeadSmess
Well-Known Member
- Local time
- 7:42 AM
- Joined
- May 17, 2010
- Messages
- 3,048
according to most pages on the interweb regards teflon gasketing materials, its capable of 3000 psi or so. even a high performance engine is lucky to peak at 1000psi at the instant of combustion. so thats plenty of safety margin.
as mentioned, surfaces have to be close to a good seal in the first place, teflon has no real strength, it cannot cope with large gaps. it just seals. it is NOT a gap filler! (like when i replaced my water heater the other day, no matter what, one of the fittings leaked...until i replaced it with a slightly tighter union. note how much tape plumbers use... they do not understand how it works. they just bung on half a roll of the stuff on each join. you only need three, four turns on the average fitting...)
a case of oversquish!
i replaced the piston in my nsr150. trimmed the head to a 0.6mm squish. then went on a long ride with E10(our ethanol fuel is the exact opposite of your american stuff...we dont get any more than 10%ethanol here. noone likes the stuff, or trusts it. strange. now i see why there is a big argument about what oil and fuels to use on this predominately american site...)
i blame the cheap, non genuine honda piston, rather than fuel or squish or anything... oh, maybe the lack of re-jetting also. that may have been a factor.
one thing i noticed. the stock head has about 1.6 mm squish. now i have a spare engine(mainly because i have had to tear the original back to the crank shaft to get bits of piston out, and am waiting on bits n pieces while its apart), so i have two heads, one stock, one trimmed. the trimmed head causes clutch slip at 8-9000 rpm, whereas the stock head does not... i prefer the trimmed head, but i may have to increase that squish just a touch before i trust it...and im only going to run 98octane from now on...
buts its so much more rideable with the reduced squish! power band starts at least 2000 rpm lower down( or at least, it isnt so gutless at 6-7000rpm?). more snappy, easier to start when cold, blah blah, yarda yarda...
time to invest in a tig welder again, i need to make a new exhaust...
as mentioned, surfaces have to be close to a good seal in the first place, teflon has no real strength, it cannot cope with large gaps. it just seals. it is NOT a gap filler! (like when i replaced my water heater the other day, no matter what, one of the fittings leaked...until i replaced it with a slightly tighter union. note how much tape plumbers use... they do not understand how it works. they just bung on half a roll of the stuff on each join. you only need three, four turns on the average fitting...)
a case of oversquish!
i replaced the piston in my nsr150. trimmed the head to a 0.6mm squish. then went on a long ride with E10(our ethanol fuel is the exact opposite of your american stuff...we dont get any more than 10%ethanol here. noone likes the stuff, or trusts it. strange. now i see why there is a big argument about what oil and fuels to use on this predominately american site...)
i blame the cheap, non genuine honda piston, rather than fuel or squish or anything... oh, maybe the lack of re-jetting also. that may have been a factor.
one thing i noticed. the stock head has about 1.6 mm squish. now i have a spare engine(mainly because i have had to tear the original back to the crank shaft to get bits of piston out, and am waiting on bits n pieces while its apart), so i have two heads, one stock, one trimmed. the trimmed head causes clutch slip at 8-9000 rpm, whereas the stock head does not... i prefer the trimmed head, but i may have to increase that squish just a touch before i trust it...and im only going to run 98octane from now on...
buts its so much more rideable with the reduced squish! power band starts at least 2000 rpm lower down( or at least, it isnt so gutless at 6-7000rpm?). more snappy, easier to start when cold, blah blah, yarda yarda...
time to invest in a tig welder again, i need to make a new exhaust...