Intake Resonator

[wan37]

It’s called sweating . Propane torch portable one and solder and flux that’s it.

 

[wan37]

you want acid flux too

 

[YetiWoodz]

Look what I found. I might get this or get the solder and flux separate. I think I kinda need thinner solder wire.
Aluminum soldering kit

 

[Frogslayer]

You don't need thin wire, it will melt

 

[YetiWoodz]

First time soldering with flux and propane torch. Not bad eh? I used that aluminum/brass/copper/steel soldering kit in the link above. Nice and strong bond and fully sealed. Used a tungsten carbide bit to clean up extra solder, was pretty strong stuff to grind through.

 

[wan37]

Now we hope the carburetor has enough space to mount on intake my fingers are crossed.

 

[YetiWoodz]

Now we hope the carburetor has enough space to mount on intake my fingers are crossed.

It does fit

 

[Chainlube]

View attachment 99524
First time soldering with flux and propane torch. Not bad eh? I used that aluminum/brass/copper/steel soldering kit in the link above. Nice and strong bond and fully sealed. Used a tungsten carbide bit to clean up extra solder, was pretty strong stuff to grind through.

That's really good, first timer doesn't realize he only needs a touch of solder to get a good seal. If you pop the little seal off the end, you'll be able to clean it up with a flat file real nice.

 

[YetiWoodz]

As a refresher, here's how I designed my boost bottle. I took into account that the frequency of the intake is about double the engine's rpm. I designed it according to this webpage

All About Boost Bottles

www.dragonfly75.com

 

[YetiWoodz]

I tested the boost bottle for many hours the past couple days. I did some timed tests. I used a stopwatch. I started from a stop sign all the way up a very slight incline and stop the stopwatch when I reach a certain landmark. Full throttle all the way. First type of test, I accelerated from an almost complete stop (the least amount of momentum I can pull out from without the engine shutting off.) Lets call that "Test 1." The second type of test was starting out with more momentum by coasting into the start at a certain speed. Lets call that "Test 2."
--------------------------------
Test 1 with boost bottle
* 0:26 sec
* 0.28 sec
* 0.26 sec
* 0.27 sec
* 0.26 sec
Test 1 without boost bottle
* 0:27 sec
* 0:26 sec
* 0:27
* 0:26
Test 2 with boost bottle
* 0:22
* 0:24
* 0:25
* 0:24
Test 2 without boost bottle
* 0:24
* 0:22
* 0:22
* 0:24
Observations: The time it took from A to B with a boost bottle vs. without one remained the same.
----------------------------
I drove around my neighborhood on straight long roads, uphill, downhill, stop and go. Again, I rode for hours.
Obsevations: I have not noticed any increase or decrease of power throughout any rpms with the boost bottle vs. without. I have a tachometer to keep an eye on rpms.
-----------------------------
Idle
The only thing that the boost bottle has impacted is the idle. I pulled in the clutch and let the bike sit for about a minute each time to see where the engine's rpm likes to settle at and how much it fluctuates. Without boost bottle was consistently averaged at 2230 rpm. Idle rpm with boost bottle was consistently averaged at 5900 rpm. In all tests, after 30 seconds, when the idle rpm has definitely settled, the idle rpm only fluctuated by 10-30 rpm. I tried changing the length of the neck of the boost bottle to see if it would change idle rpm. I increased the neck size by about 65%. It didn't affect the idle rpm or performance at all.
------------------------------
Conclusion: The only thing the boost bottle affected was the idle rpm. It increased it by 3670 rpm. The other reason I increased the neck size of the boost bottle was to test the helmholtz resonator aspect of it. Increasing the neck size by 65% would change the resonant rpm to a much lower rpm. From 5730 to 4470. But it did nothing. This is without an exhaust expansion chamber or reed valve.