just installed sbp expansion pipe now problems(maybe)

thuginfc

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Sep 5, 2009
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ok i ordered and instlled the expansion exhaust from sick bike parts instantly i noticed huge torque gains but it is now reaching a max rpm and staying there i can pull the clutch and try to rev more but it barley revs out anymore its topping out at maybe 20 mph but then sometimes ill be cruising along and then it gets extra grunt like it should be running like and will rev out fully and top out at about 33mph ill bring it down and then its running crappy again


things i tried

Clean air filter
replace cheapo plug with ngk bh7
upgrade to msd plug wire and boot
ported out carb a little bit and removed that stupid air robbing ring in it (this actually made a good difference in accelerating)
sealed carb on with gasket sealant
adjusting chain (thinking it might of been too tight)
adjusting clip in carb though all the positions but stock was best as per the plug color
60 psi tires

does anyone know what could be causing this? i would like to get it worked out before my new sprocket comes in

my bad on title spelling just installed*** not unstalled
 
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did you tune the pipe? The sbp pipe is tunable by cutting the pipe that comes out of the cylinder. Depending on how long / short that pipe is, will alter when the engine breathes the best. It could be that you are reachng the peak power band of the pipe sooner than you were reaching it with the stock exhaust. when the motor "comes on " the pipe, it will give you a supercharged effect and you will feel it hit the powerband. But, i'm thinking that if you are reaching the powerband before the motor is reaching it's peak rpm, then maybe the motor is fighting the pipe because it has passed the powerband?
I could be way off base on this, i'm just guessing.
 
no it is hitting the power band sometimes thats when it takes off and smoothes out real nice and yea i tuned the pipe i cut about 3/8 -1/2 inch of the pipe in 1/4 inch ingroments till it hit the best rpms

when i first put it on i rode around the block a few times and i seemed perfect till the bike warmed up i guess
 
What ring did you remove from the carb?

I installed a tuned pipe from another supplier.
I selected an initial length of twelve inches from the manifold to the beginning of the fat part of the chamber..
This is a good place to start.
I kept the twelve inch pipe as fine for me.
The jet needs to be re drilled.
Trial and error.
I drilled it bigger .
Then soldered it closed and used successively larger holes until it ran very good.
About ten or so tries.
I finally removed the pipe and re jetted the carb.

The Arizona laws changed, requiring less than twenty miles per hour OR ELSE.
I figure a thirty percent increase in hp from my tuned pipe.
Another ten percent for port matching, and exhaust and intake porting . Grinding for greater flow.
 
Intermittent problems are typically carb or ignition related. Whenever there is a sometimes it does this or sometimes it does that, this is usually the problem. Definitely check for air leaks. Most of our customers report the need to lean the engine out after installing the chamber, most can get away with just lowering the needle all the way by putting the clip on the top notch. Some however need to change jets or use the solder and drill method. How many miles do you have on the engine? If it is not broken in yet this may be contributing to your issues.
 
I noticed with mine if the gasket in between the Intake Pipe and the Intake port on the Engine blocks the intake port at all my bike runs like ****.
Use some aluminum cookie sheet to cut a matched gasket.
assemble the intake.
Remove it and you will have a nice impression of where things seal and are open.
Trim the gasket re-assemble and your good to go.
Also make sure you grind the exhaust gasket to match the port as close as possable.
 
the ring i removed was the one just inside the intake if you take your filter off youll see what im tlking about

i will try leaaning it out again and see what happens my motor has about 300 miles or so. im guessing its broke in

i opened up the exhaust gasket and the intake gasket
 
Is the ring you removed the choke?
Kind of like a washer with a lever attached.
Remove the cover to the magneto.
Dry it out with a hairdryer , heat gun or just leave the cover off for a day or so.
After it is dry seal the wire's where they leave the magneto housing with silicone.. seal the magneto housing .
Remove the kill switch run the wires ,blue and black directly from the magneto to the cdi.
Cap off the white wire.
Turn off the fuel petcock.
Remove the two screws holding the bottom of the carb on.
Look for junk in the bottom of the bowl .
Turn the petcock on to see fuel freely flowing from the needle and seat.
Gently push up the fork that the float pushes against.
Fuel flows then stops.
Carefully remove the jet and push a needle through the tiny hole in it
You need fuel spark and air.
After every thing is back together..
Start the engine.
Spray any thing even windex.
On the intake manifold , and carb to check for leaks
 
no the ring removed was actually part of the carb casting it clearly slows the irfloow though

tried a stock carb, ran worse.
the carb is completely clean removed the jet and every part and soaked it overnight in carb cleaner.
it ran better leaned out a little more but the plug didnt seem right color and motor seemed running too hot so i got it second from top notch nowbut isnt running as good as it was leaner

is it safe to run it on the highest clip?

i too thought it might have something to do with magneto took cover off cleaned everthing out it all looks brand new inside there
 
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